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Bought a '96 EB bronco about 6 months ago and it needs lots of TLC! I've located a replacement tail gate from a wrecker. My existing gate (that is still on the truck) has defroster in the window but the replacement gate does not. I am not qualified to switch these gates out. I live in the Sacramento area and I'm looking for a body shop that is totally familiar with Full sized bronco's to do the work. Does anyone know of a body shop anywhere in Northern Calif that has lots of Bronco experience that I can go to?
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Welcome Sean!

Are you wanting to swap the defroster over to the new tailgate?

It's not very difficult to swap gates out, and there is tons of info and pics about tailgates on here. We can help you through the process.

I'm in KS so I can't be of help on the local shops.
 

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Yo Sean,
Welcome!
Suggest you ask about a shop in https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/32-west-coast-chapter/ section

In fact, I will move this thread there.

Just so you know what the shop will and should do;
Read Tailgate Replacement (swappingsomr internal parts)b y Dustin S @ http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/tailgate.html
Tailgate Replacement by Dustin S @ http://ylobronc.users.superford.org/tailgate.html
Glass Replacement & Parts Break-Out Diagram in a 96 from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, F-Super Duty and Bronco Workshop Manual; "...Open tailgate. Remove inside cover access panel and retaining screws. Remove inside cover panel support and retaining screws. Remove inside cover watershield. Manually close both tailgate latches and raise the tailgate glass. Remove four nuts retaining tailgate back window glass (42006) and back window glass bracket (422B18) to back window regulator. If tailgate has heated glass option, disconnect two terminals (driver's side). Grind off four rivets, two on each back window glass bracket to tailgate glass. Punch out four rivets and remove four door window glass channel bracket retainers (234A46) and door window glass bracket spacers (234A44). Remove screws and pull out tailgate upper corner seal assemblies, one on each side. Snap out inside and outside tailgate weatherstrips with tool. Slide tailgate back window glass out from tailgate assembly. Installation, Slide glass midway into tailgate assembly. Connect heated glass wires, if equipped. Install back window glass bracket C-channels onto the tailgate window regulator arm slide guides. Position tailgate back window glass over back window glass bracket C-channel studs and install four door window glass bracket spacers, door window glass channel bracket retainers and rivets. Lower tailgate back window glass to connect heated glass wiring terminals. Close tailgate and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure smooth operation. Install watershield. Install inside cover panel support (one screw). Install ten inside cover access panel screws. Close door and cycle tailgate back window glass to ensure proper function..."
Source: by Ford @ https://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stj1b042.htm
See tailgate internal poarts diagram
Shop may need to clean or repair or replace;
Glass Roller (Dorman Universal Window Roller 74402) avail @ most parts stores
Check glass run for damage or debris, clean and lube
Remove internal rust caused by bad glass wearherstripping
Check weatherstrip for grime, lack of lubrication.
Ford does recommend, "Use Silicone Lubricant C0AZ-19553-AA (jelly) and D7AZ-19553-AA (spray) or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESR-M13P4-A on the door and window weatherstrips whenever necessary. Silicone lubricant helps avoid weatherstrip squeaks and retards excess weatherstrip wear from chafing between the door glass upper frame and the weatherstrip. It also helps to retain door window alignment by reducing friction between the glass frame and the rubber weatherstrip. Use Multi-Purpose Grease Spray D7AZ-19584-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specifications ESR-M1C159-A and ESB-M1C106-B to lubricate door and tailgate hinges. Apply an even coat to all hinge pivot points as outlined in the maintenance schedules or when a binding or squeaking condition occurs..."
miesk5 note, test the silicone on a regular styrofoam cup first; if the cup gets funky or melts, then the can or tube contans oil, a regular occurrence now, esp if from China.
apply dry (Teflon) lube to the flocked surfaces that touch the glass; dry lube prevents noise & abrasion, and allows the glass to move faster; take off the TG access cover and spray Tri-Flow in the tracks on either side so the regulator toggles slide up and down easy" by JKossarides
Is window regulator rusted badly? If so, lube it with multi purpose grease.
Are Glass rollers ok?
Internal torsion bar bracket may be on verge of failure due to rust. If so, torsion bar could come loose and shatter the glass. Here is a pic by BikerPepe` in his 95.

Ensure that the motor is mounted properly to the back of the regulator
Tailgate could be mis-aligned
Almost all parts available @ https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Tailgate-Bronco-83-96/products/82/
Or;
LMCTruck.com
https://www.npdlink.com
Metro Moulded Parts ~ Top Quality Automotive Weatherstripping and Rubber Parts weatherstripping

Real life Glass Replacement (most pics are gone); Bronco Journal October 10th, 2002; Work Project: Tailgate Glass Repair Journal Entry #7. "...Hello, this is my work journal for October 10th, 2002. Today was a day of accomplishment. It was time to put the tailgate back together and see if I could get the window to go up and down without being lazy. The problem was it would labor at about the mid-point of the tailgate. I already had many components removed from the tailgate - including the motor and the window. It was time to put it all back in and hope that things worked. What I had to do, was replace or repair the wiring harness. There was damage that was repair-attempted by someone at the exit from the tailgate to the main body (behind the taillight). The restrictions that caused the window/motor to labor was many - much of the regulator assembly had to be cleaned and oiled. The brackets that attach to the window pane were also filthy and needed cleaning. This was a big job for sure. I called Ford Parts to see what a new wiring harness (with integral switches and heated) would cost...yikes, it was over $211.00 CDN. A little steep, so it goes without saying, I decided to repair any damage, replace and bad segments and re-lash the whole assembly. Thus it was done. Removing the Glass. To remove the glass from a Bronco's tailgate is rather simple. First, you have to grind off the rivets that hold the brackets to the glass. I used a dremel and a cutoff wheel for this job. The rivets simply are pushed out once the heads are cut off. The brackets are removed by sliding them off the regulator arm knob. The brackets were cleaned and a new coat of grease was applied to the inner tracks. The bracket as removed - soiled, grungy and some corrosion. A brass wire brush on the drill made short work of cleaning the bracket. Click on the photo to see a BIG picture. The next step is to remove all the weather stripping and inserts. The first to remove are the two corner pieces - each secured by a SM screw at the tailgate sides. The outer weather strip also has two screws - one at each end. It is then removed by pulling straight out. The inner strip is also removed by pulling straight out - it has no screws. The tailgate window glass is now easy to remove by pulling it straight out of the tailgate. Make sure you have a buddy or wife to help here as you do not want to slip and drop the glass. Don't forget to unplug the defroster plugs from the harness to the pane first - and watch them as you remove the glass - they could break. I broke one like a dummy, but was able to solder it back on with flux and torch and 60/40. Once the glass is out - I removed the wiring harness. You have to take the driver side glass guide rail off (2 bolts) to get where the harness is attached to the inner wall of the tailgate. It is secured by a couple push plugs into a small bracket. The KEY switch also needs to be removed and this is done by simply yanking the wire clip that holds it in place. A few days before this project, I was lowering my glass - and it all died. I thought I blew the motor - so I wanted to remove it for inspection and cleaning - and possible repair or replacement. I removed the motor and tested it out with a 12 V 11 A power supply - it worked, so it only needed to be cleaned and new grease applied to the pinion gear. To remove the motor - first remove the three bolts as indicated in the photo. The motor will slide out towards the passenger side. However, before removing the bolts, you have to jam the regulator so that it does not kick back when the motor is removed. This is accomplished by placing a block(s) of wood against the driver's side regulator arm and the inner tailgate. See the photo below. Make sure the regulator arm is secure or you could lose a finger - the regulator is under tension - there is a heavy return spring in the assembly. Jamming the regulator BEFORE removing the motor assembly. After removing and cleaning all the components - the installation was basically the reverse of the disassembly outlined above. I will be purchasing a new tailgate shell in the near future, so I did not replace the weather stripping at this point - they were all in good shape - but I will replace them with a new tailgate in the future. I did have to make some splices to run new wire for a section of the wiring harness. If you do this - make sure the connections are well heat-shrunk and taped to prevent moisture from getting in and causing the same problems all over again. And that is pretty much it - in a summarized fashion that is - I did not want to list the 100 things that one needs to do to rebuild the tailgate as I did. I did re-space the tailgate outer skin from the inner wall to make sure the glass did not bind in its curve at the midpoint. Someone must have backed into something in its history - a small dent in the tailgate provided the evidence. The glass would bind at its midpoint within the weather stripping - and prying the mouth to an equal distance along its entire length solved this problem. This of course was done without the glass in the gate. As a final note - to install the glass back into the tailgate - you have to rivet the brackets back to the nylon disks on the glass. I used 3/16 inch aluminum pop rivets with backing washers. It did the trick - like new. (1) Pop riveting the brackets to the glass. (2) A new run of wires and protective wrap on the harness. The connector is behind the taillight lens..."
Source: by RFR (Mark B)

Was cruise control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call dealer & have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/23-technical-write-ups/457065-93-94-96-cruise-control-recalls-repair.html#post6530073

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view).

Please fill out your Bronco Info with year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. for better responses.
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Forum FAQs @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/165569-common-replies-faqs.html includes for example:
How to use search (Advanced) @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/19-suggestions-feedback-site-help/62157-how-use-search-advanced.html
How to post lottsa pics @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/19-suggestions-feedback-site-help/6204-how-post-pictures.html

Here are some 96 Bronco related Links for you;
96 Bronco-F-Series Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) via 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual

96 Bronco Owners Guide by Hiller Ford @ https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_153039105061920&key=6ed47b392b9edfe394b9e89b72717104&libId=jj1v3uvj01000bgv000MAeuphejbsf25u&loc=https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/18-introductions/486889-new-guy-pnw.html#post6971081&v=1&out=http://www.hillerford.com/resource_library/owner_manuals_pdf/1996_owner_manuals_ford/96bronco.pdf&title=New guy from the PNW - Ford Bronco Forum&txt=http://www.hillerford.com/resource_l...d/96bronco.pdf
96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1996 Ford Bronco Technical Info picture | SuperMotors.net

Free registration for some wiring diagrams (partial, 86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

Register to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ http://owner.ford.com .

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Enjoy our site Sean!
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