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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody, hope you are having a great holiday.

I need some specific help please on the 96. I have worked on it for

6 months now, everything from new ball joints to new gas tank, but I

cant do two things. I have a speedometer jump and hard tranny shifting.

The vss, tps & most other parts are good. I know the speedo jump is either

the psom or the 4wabs. I cant find the numbers on the 4wabs to jump the 4

wires. I have taken the top off of the 4wabs unit & no numbers. Also, I do not
know where or how to do, "koeo" or "koer" tests. The auto parts store checked for codes & it was good. So, please tell me how to check codes on a 96 only & where are the numbers on the 4wabs are so I can jump it to get straight input to my psom.

Thanks
 

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yo Jack,
I lost my big reply message, thanks to COMCAST! stay here for a few and I'll get the info posted
 

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Jack
There is no Self Test for 96 OBD II;
Did da store do the KOER part while engine eas at Normal Operating Temp?
if not,
run it around to heat the engine up and shift thru all gears incl Reverse.
then; turn off all accesories/lights, etc.

Do KOEO portion first
For Key On Engine Running (KOER) portion, the engine has to be @ normal operating temp.

Post any codes found here or look em up in my broncolinks.com site
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What Testing did you do? on VSS?
I see that you have good knowledge, but I'll go thru da drill anyway, ok?

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and is the Amber ABS light?

and/or check engine light lit?

If so, there could be other factors causing the PSOM needle to jump; such as;
a damaged ABS tone ring/or shavings in the rear differential
a bad ABS (also called VSS) Sensor or it/s connector/wiring (corroded connections/conductors)
other connectors along da path thru the 4WABS Control Module & then up to da PSOM (Speedo/odometer) and then to the EEC/Cruise Control/ Overhead Console
& of course a faulty PSOM; sometimes due to a loose or bad solder joint inside

My ABS Module was fried and caused the PSOM needle to jump wildly, tranny to downshift suddenly and AMBER ABS light to turn on; also had a DTC and check engine light


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VSS Tone Ring Damage pics in a 95 8.8
Source: by sackman9975 at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/19344/67582

Tone Ring Inspection; "Take off the rear diff cover. Check the Ring Tone gear. It is located on the left hand side of the ring gear. Look to see if any of the teeth have been notched (from debris floating around in the diff.) Usually a spider gear. If the ring tone gear has been notched, it will need to be replaced to fix your speedo reading. Jack it up and rotate the tires to look for the teeth to be notched/broken/bent..."
Source: by Bighibbi at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59278&highlight=tone+ring


Pointer Waiver TSB 96-21-11 for 92-96; "...The speedometer needle may waver and/or a light surge may occur on some vehicles when speed control is used at highway speeds between 80-113 km/h (50-70 mph). This may be due to slight dents/chips in either the exciter ring or the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and air gaps between the VSS and the exciter ring..."
Source: by Ford via miesk5 http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=171136&page=2&dr_log=-1&linkout=http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_service_bulletins.htm#PSOM%20Pointer%20Waiver%20TSB%2096-21-11%20for%2092-96
This is the Ford overall TSB, but we can go to the Jumpering 4WABS Module next



PSOM Continuity Test Through 4WABS Control Module Connector in 93-96; "...jumper 14 to 21, & 39 to 22..." MIESK5 NOTE; See diagram. I did this on our 96; The 4WABS Control Module was toasted; 2 yard 4WABS Control Modules were also bad; NO RETURNS!
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=102436&highlight=psom+4wabs&page=2
This is what Steve wrote in that thread;
You can jumper 14 to EITHER 21 or 22, and jumper 39 to the other (doesn't matter which way). You're trying to get the ABS (VSS) signal from the sensor directly to the PSOM. Look at that diagram again.

Just for clarity: jumper 14 to 21,
which in the 4WABS Connectors Diagrams for 93-96 is 14 (CKT 530, LG/Y)
to 21 (CKT 519 (LG/BK)

& 39 (CKT 491 (O/LB)
to 22
(CKT 523, R/PK)


Wiring Diagram in 96 (similar to 92-95) & CHECK SPEED INPUT SIGNAL TestSource: by Ford via Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.superford.org/vehicles/re...a.php?id=95931

Next are the 4WABS Connectors Diagrams for 93-96
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
here it is in full Size, so you can print it out seperately from this post;
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/280768/original/4wabs-connectors.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Miesk5, but I am still confused. When I go to the auto parts store they tell me to " key on engine off " only. Can I say " NO, I WANT THE ENGINE ON " or something like that? No ABS or check engine light. The vss is new from ford and ohms good, no metal chips & tone ring is solid. I do have a " small surge " at low speed, " constant pedal pressure ", about 10 mph or so.

Thanks
 

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yo Jack! Yw!
Just got back inside.

When I go to the auto parts store they tell me to " key on engine off " only. Can I say " NO, I WANT THE ENGINE ON " or something like that?

Tell em you want both KOEO and KOER scans
KOEO First

then with Engine still at Normal Operating Temp, the KOER can be done.
It is important that eng is at norm op temp for KOER


No ABS or check engine light. ok

The vss is new from ford and ohms good, ok- good!

no metal chips & tone ring is solid. ok- good!


I do have a " small surge " at low speed, " constant pedal pressure ", about 10 mph or so.

Jumper it out

Make sure you have that 4WABS Module Connector Diagram in front of you;; double check before jumpering.
I have same diagram and I wrote and highlighted the Pins to be jumpered on the diagram
Use some of wife's srt8 pins and reg jumper wires w/alligator clips.
 

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update; here is the reason for having the engine at normal operating temp for the KOER portion in which the I/M Readiness is checked;
"...The I/M Readiness (Inspection and Maintenance) function is used to check the operations of the Emission System on OBDII vehicles. I/M Readiness is an excellent function to use prior to having a vehicle inspected for compliance to a state emissions program. During normal driving conditions, the vehicle’s computer scans the emission system. After a specific amount of drive time (depending on vehicle), the computer’s "monitors" will decide if the vehicles emission system is working correctly or not. When the "monitors" record:
• "READY" and check engine light has not come on - vehicle will likely pass emissions test and the system being checked is working properly.
• "NOT READY" (Incomplete) - vehicle was not driven enough and needs to be driven until monitors record "READY."

The KOER prob won't show any Codes for the PSOM problem but may show Code(s) related to that Surge.

EDIT; Does the Check Engine Light flash-on briefly when starting the Engine? It should; if you don't see it light up, then the bulb is bad, or a prev owner pulled it.. and more
 

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btw, Does the Check Engine Light flash-on briefly when starting the Engine? It should; if you don't see it light up, then the bulb is bad, or a prev owner pulled it.. and more

Check Engine Light (CEL) Overview in 92-96; "...The check engine warning indicator comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning...) read more
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks Miesk5, I did the "jump test" & the speedo jumped more. I will go get the koer & koeo test done now.
 

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ok, that is isnt't good

For a replacement PSOM (leaving your cluster gauges in-place) in case it is the PSOM module; which that jumper test basically proves; aside from a loose PSOM connector.
For a YARD SEARCH on-line, I use;
http://www.mypartshop.com
Select year, etc, then FORD TRUCK
I used NY area

(cluster), MPH tach I selected this as a guess
(cluster), MPH w/o tach
Here is a quickie Search EXAMPLE for Speedo Head/Cluster
96 Bronco Speedo Head/Cluster
120K DIG
Some show the Mileage (Odometer reading), so try for something close to what you have.
Almost all states have an Odometer Disclosure form for you to fill-out upon sale of the Bronco showing true mileage vs what is on da Odometer

Ask for a $ return warranty if the PSOM is bad..
Similarities, Mounting, & Removal info & pics in 80-96 Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/774679
"...92-96 Instrument Cluster Parts

The PSOM, lens, blackout ring, terminal clips, shifter plates, bulbs & holders are interchangeable between cases. '87-96 gauges are only held in by their terminal clips, except the speedo. '80-91 speedos are held in by 2 screws; '92-97 PSOMs are held captive by the surrounding gauge faces. '80-86 use the same case for tach & non-tach, with a blank face for non-tach. '80-86 gauges are held in by stamped nuts on threaded studs. The fuel, oil, & temperature gauge bodies are identical & interchangeable by prying the needle off & removing the 2 screws holding the body to the face plate. To reinstall the needle, the gauge must be powered & have a known signal applied (usually the minimum) before stabbing the needle so it points to the proper reading. The screws are 5.5mm (7/32") hex with T15...
 

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I may be wrong but this worked for me ..........after searching for fixes I noticed one day as my speedo was jumping that a relay in my engine compartment was buzzing. and it quit buzzing when the speedo quit bouncing. I baught a new relay and replaced it and has not given me problems since then...my bronco is a 96 eb so it was in the little box next to big fuse/relay box and it was the top relay
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well, I went down to get the koer & koeo test & the parts guy said " it doesn't make a differance if the truck is running or not", so we did the koer & no codes. I will get a cluster soon.
I took it down to get alligned because I installed new ball joints, rotors, all tie rods & brakes. Camber left -0.7 right 0.8 cross camber -1.5
caster left 2.9 right 3.2 left toe 1.08 right 1.09. Also, he said I have too much play in my stearing box. He wants to sell me a caster/camber kit. I have 33 12.50 15 tires with 200 miles on them & no lift yet. What do ya think?

Thanks
 

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Jack, the parts guy has no clue; but good that no codes popped up; esp the VSS (ABS) and a few others.
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Alignment Specifications in a 94
Source: by Ken B (Kenny's 94) at SuperMotors.net



"...Stock TTB Setup (Simplified) showing where Camber and Castor are measured. The only place for adjustment of Camber/Castor on the stock setup is by changing bushings around the upper ball joint. This only allows for about 2-3 dregrees of adjustment in any direction..."
by Roadkill (The Beast) at SuperMotors.net
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'89 F-150; '96 Bronco
Min. Max.
Camber*: -0.3=B0 +0.8=B0
Caster*: +2.0=B0 +6.0=B0
Total Toe*: -0.19=B0 +0.31=B0
Ride Height: within 3/16" side to side.
READ MORE
by Alvey S at 2bigbroncos.com via web.archive.org
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Following by James Oxley






front track (mm): 1,654, rear track (mm): 1,636 mm

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OK< w.my slow ISP, I can hardly jump back and see your specs now so I'll post this for now.
How dos the tire wear appear?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanhs for the info.

I now have one code. It is "p1131" lack of bank 1 02 transitions- lean.

I have installed new gas tank, fuel pump,& filter. I cleaned the throttle body & checked ohm readings & all ok in the last mounth.

I have looked for a vacuum leak, checked all hoses, sprayed carb cleaner arround the intake

manifold, injectors and everywhere else up there. No rpm change. I seafoamed the gas & in the brake booster vacuum,

" KOOL SMOKE ". I think I had this code before, & it went away after the sea foam. I am not sure

what the code means, somebody told me vacuum leak. I think I may have a weak spark sometimes

so I am going to tune it up.
 

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Thanhs for the info.

I now have one code. It is "p1131" lack of bank 1 02 transitions- lean.

I have installed new gas tank, fuel pump,& filter. I cleaned the throttle body & checked ohm readings & all ok in the last mounth.

I have looked for a vacuum leak, checked all hoses, sprayed carb cleaner arround the intake

manifold, injectors and everywhere else up there. No rpm change. I seafoamed the gas & in the brake booster vacuum,

" KOOL SMOKE ". I think I had this code before, & it went away after the sea foam. I am not sure

what the code means, somebody told me vacuum leak. I think I may have a weak spark sometimes

so I am going to tune it up.
Ford: Lack Of Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 Switches - Sensor Indicates Lean my guess would be a faulty o2 sensor but a tuneup couldn't hurt.
 

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yo,
good job dabrAnco!
P1131 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Sensor Indicates Lean A HEGO sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time. (Bank 1, Sensor 1) - Bank 1 will always be the bank containing the #1 cylinder (Passenger Side). Sensor 1 is da upstream sensor, between the engine & the catalytic converter.
I'd pull it & replace; ck connector and wire stands for corrosion. Use a lot of PB Blaster.

DTCs, OBD II & Possible Causes MANY! - Part of DRIVEABILITY, HO2S (HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR), CATALYST, AND FUEL SYSTEM MONITORS SERVICE TIPS -in 96 Bronco, TSB 01-9-7
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at cc

See Possible Causes for DTC P1130
P1130 - Lack of HO2S-11 Switch, Fuel Trim at Limit The HEGO Sensor is monitored for switching. The test fails when the HO2S fails to switch due to circuit or fuel at or exceeding a calibrated limit. Electrical:
Short to VPWR in harness or HO2S
Water in harness connector
Open/Shorted HO2S circuit
Corrosion or poor mating terminals and wiring
Damaged HO2S
Damaged PCM (other DTCs should be present, so iggie this)
Fuel System:
Excessive fuel pressure (stuck fuel pressure regulator, restricted fuel return lines, etc.)
Leaking/contaminated fuel injectors
Leaking fuel pressure regulator
Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel (fuel pump concern, fuel supply line restrictions, low fuel level, etc.)
Vapor recovery system (stuck VMV, etc.)
Induction System:
Air leaks between MAF and throttle plate
PCV system / Other vacuum leaks
Improperly seated engine oil dipstick
EGR System:
Leaking gasket
Stuck EGR valve
Leaking diaphragm or EVR
Base Engine:
Oil overfill
Cam timing
Incorrect cylinder compression
Secondary air stuck on
Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s)
A fuel control HO2S PID switching across 0.45 volt from 0.2 to 0.9 volt indicates a normal switching HO2S.
 

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4WABS prolems

Hey all. I'm new to both this forum and owning a Bronco. I have a 96 XLT that I've been working / learning on for the past year. I've got it in pretty good condition with one major problem that I can't seem to figure out.

Suddenly after sitting for a few weeks my transmission would shift violently between gears, O/D light would blink, and no speedo (limp mode). Looked on here and followed the recommendations; VSS replace...no change; jump the 4WABS pins...BINGO! Shifting was back to normal and speedometer was back. Bought a refabed module on ebay, (looks brand new) plugged it in...and back to hard shifting. Jumped the pins again...good to go. WTH??? Is the module bad? Is there a way to check it? I'm going to assume its got to be the module since it works perfectly when it's bypassed. Anyone have this problem before?

I'd like to have the ABS working...I use this as a road truck and don't do much if any off-roading (except beach running), so pulling it completely isn't ideal.
Thanks in advance!
 

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Yo jkeefemil1,
Welcome!
Yes, #1 suspect is that refabed module.
#2 could be the connector; as Ford usually advises to inspect for "Terminal back out"
#3 is the 4WABS Module jumper took a hike.
 

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Thanks miesk5!

Finally fixed...I hope. I got a new module and put it in...same issue. Was about to take a hammer to everything in sight, but stopped short. I did find on another thread where the trailer wiring harness had rubbed on the body and was shorting out the reverse lights...which are part of the 4WABS power circuit. Long story short...that was it. The short was continuously blowing the fuse in the engine compartment and I didn't go back to check after replacing it the first time. Fixed the short, replaced the fuse and everything works fine.
 
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