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Hey guys... just joined the forum, looking for advice. Tried the search but couldn't find specifics.

I'm looking at a couple of mid 90's Bronco's to alleviate the miles on my GTO, and I've found a sweet 96, black :hump, with a warn winch on the front. Pretty basic, looks really clean, 122K miles. Wants 6500... I'm gonna try and talk him down at least a few hundred.

Questions for you guys... what should I look for, or pay particular attention to when checking it out? :shrug It's super clean, and I think I'm gonna get it, but I wanna know first what I'm getting myself into. I usually do all my own work, but I'm not at all familiar with the Bronco (yet!).

Attached is a crappy camera phone pic.

Thanks guys!
 

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make sure everthing works correctly. drive it around listen to the engine, trans, ect for unusual noises. when its warm(and cold) check everything for leaks, squeks ect. just check over every little thing you can possibly think of for anything messed up or out of the norm. make sure you check the oil and trans fluid and ask when the last tiem theyr were changed as well as the diff fluids. take your time when checking it out and askin lots of questions. theres no such thing as too many questions when buying a used vehicle.

kinda crappy pic, but it sounds nice. i doubt he will go down to a few hundred. i wouldnt sell it less that 4500. good luck bro and welcome to the land of FSB.
 

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I think that's pretty expensive, but I guess it depends on where you are. I just bought a 1992 XLT for $950 here in Seattle, it's a 4.9L six, auto, manual hubs with 117K miles on it. It needed new carpet and a new tailgate. I got those parts for $150, and it went together pretty easily and looks great. I used Steve83's tailgate page, it came in handy. I painted it with Ford Duplicolor paint, and it turned out nice.

I also have a 1993 Eddie Bauer that I'm now selling. It has 155K on it, 5.8L, auto, push button 4X4. I want $3100 for it. It needs the seat bottoms to be recovered. Other than that, it's in good shape. A person could buy that, recover the seats, put a lift or whatever on it, and still not come close to $6500.

If you do a search on Craig's List here in Seattle, there are a lot of Bronco's for sale that are very reasonably priced. You could fly here and drive one of them home. Hopefully we'll be Super Bowl champs by then...
 

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I just bought an 89 5.8 got it for 800 bux but as you can imagine it is going to take some work to get her looking good and back to somewhat normal. It runs good no ticks and tranny seems good. It needs a new suspension but I am just going to do that with the lift. I am sure the little things will nickle and dime me to death but hey...
 

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Pop the hood. Make sure it is a 5.8 Liter.. You will miss the power, if you don't. Engage the 4wd, 4hi 4low, etc. Look for rust, leaks underneath. Make sure all the smog equip crap is there.

Best thing to do before any buy, is carfax the machine. It is atleast good for peice of mind. If you can get it for 6000, and all is good, jump on it..

Be prepared to change out the crap auto locking hubs in a few months as well.
 

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Zombie Hunter
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I can't believe no one has mentioned this RUST!

The tailgate, rear fenders and front fenders and core support LOVE to rust on these things if you live in the rust belt.

The rear fenders have a lip on the inside, usually starts out as a couple bumps and then breaks through (see picture)

The tailgate will start to rust at the bottom along the seem, put the rear window down and inspect the tailgate (careful the effer is heavy, not like a normal truck tailgate).

Just overview the whole body

 

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important to note, 96 is the only year for a bronco and obd 2 computer. i'd stay away from the 96, just because it's all that more different and complex than a 95 with the older computer system.
 

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crank trigger
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v8only said:
important to note, 96 is the only year for a bronco and obd 2 computer. i'd stay away from the 96, just because it's all that more different and complex than a 95 with the older computer system.

I wouldn't worry about OBD II. I think it is even tuneable.
 

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v8only said:
important to note, 96 is the only year for a bronco and obd 2 computer. i'd stay away from the 96, just because it's all that more different and complex than a 95 with the older computer system.
Some 95's are ODB-II :twak :toothless
 

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search, you #$%@! noob
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plus they have mass air....more betterer.

usnav8or, i have a cleaner 96 bko than that for sale, with less mileage, for about the same price...click on my signature to ck. it out...
 

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We have a 96, bought it new in May 96 and basically, we "over-maintain" it...meaning 3k mile oil/filter changes & lube, all filters changed before severe duty schedules, etc. Still, we had minor problems that we addressed quickly.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
- oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet® Automotive, a FSB SPONSOR!) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and undercoat/paint by Ford!
- radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
- auto tranny - E4OD had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing
- transfer case operation - electric push button motor/connector is a prob. area; usually usually a broken travel stop or the motor connector is fouled, etc.
- auto hub operation (get it in sand, snow or mud and try the 4x4 system; or mark the driveshaft w/chalk or tape and see if it moves when in 4x4 for a short drive; ours blew @ only 30 k miles despite freq. maint.)
- rust in inner rear fender lips and bottom of tailgate (fender lips was rusting due to beach sand wearing the paint & road salt) ...check tg drains for clogs/rust..check weather seals, esp the outer ws on glass - radius arm bushing deterioration (I sprayed em w/pure silicone, from day 1) but replaced at 80k miles w/Daystar polyurethane bushings
- ball joints..our's are ok, but costly if not DIY
- PSOM, make sure it works; look for a waver in the needle at highway speeds..costly to replace w/new; most get yard units for DIY; , a crooked dealer here in NJ has been caught for the 3rd time switching PSOMs!..there is also a device to roll-back odometers on PSOMs..so look for some maint records or contact a dealer to run an OASIS report to see what maint was done to it a Ford dealership... Car Fax is good, but iffy..they do NOT list over $5k in single accident damages on 3 of our vehicles & our 92 Van had less mileage than when we sold it according to a CarFax report 2 years later... they did nothing after we contacted them.
- cracked exhaust manifold/Y, etc.
- roof/gutter area cracks (mostly appl. to earlier years)
- emissions air check valve & cat. converter tubes..tends to rust early; as does the AIR tube
- radiator supports, lower, it rusts mainly on passenger side PIA to replace

See if you can get it to a mechanic for a compression check, code checks (free at AutoZone, etc) and other inspections if you don't diy; neglected vehicles are costly to repair, esp. 4x4's.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey guys... thanks for all the help. Got a bunch of good info here on what to look for. You should make this info a sticky. I'll keep you guys posted if I become the new owner of a FSB. :chili:


Jackhart... check your PM's.
 

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All the Bronco's in that picture are all for sale. Apparantly this guy is a Bronco guy.

Here's the scoop on the one I'm looking at, lemme know what you guys think.
It's pretty clean, 91K miles on a 5.8L. Popped the hood, got under the truck. Under side has a rusty color to it I mean it's 11 years old, but nothing looks actually rusted out. Under hood seemed clean, dosen't look like it's seen any real 'wheelin. No real problem areas on the body work as far as I could see. Starts good, no strange noises, no fluids leaking (from what I could see). Didn't get to drive it, it's a consignment and I didn't want to drive it w/out the owner there. Seemed to get into 4 hi and lo (in neuteral) no problems. Manual locking hubs. Gonna probably offer the guy 6200. Whadda ya think? Still had the window sticker with the truck. Stickerd for $31K!!!! Oh ya it's got a Warn winch on the front, as well as a chrome winch bumper.
 

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Master of the Estate
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Bronco Rob said:
I can't believe no one has mentioned this RUST!
That was my first thought
 

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Bronco Rob said:
I can't believe no one has mentioned this RUST!

The tailgate, rear fenders and front fenders and core support LOVE to rust on these things if you live in the rust belt.

The rear fenders have a lip on the inside, usually starts out as a couple bumps and then breaks through (see picture)

The tailgate will start to rust at the bottom along the seem, put the <a style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px double;' href="http://www.qklinkserver.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=92&k=rear%20window&st=1" onmouseover="window.status='Search for: rear window'; self.ql_skeyphrase='rear%20window'; if(window.event) self.ql_sevent=window.event.srcElement; self.ql_timeout = setTimeout('ql_doMouseOver(1)', 1000); self.ql_isOverLink=true; return true;" onclick="if(self.ql_timeout) clearTimeout(self.ql_timeout); self.ql_isOverTip = false; ql_closeiframe(); self.ql_skeyphrase='rear%20window'; window.status='Search for: rear window';return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; if(self.ql_timeout) clearTimeout(self.ql_timeout); self.ql_isOverTip = false; setTimeout('ql_closeiframe()', 1500); ">rear window</a> down and inspect the tailgate (careful the effer is heavy, not like a normal truck tailgate).

Just overview the whole body


Pop the hood. Make sure it is a 5.8 Liter.. You will miss the power, if you don't. Engage the 4wd, 4hi 4low, etc. Look for rust, leaks underneath. Make sure all the smog equip crap is there.

Some of us did..:thumbup but, he is right. Look out for rust.
 
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