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Here it is before the lift; notice the considerable front end sag.



Here is the Kit. It is a Tuff Country 2.5 inch kit with extended radius arms. It came with blocks for the rear, which I did not use. All of it was very high quality, and had a thick textured powder coat on it, needless to say I was impressed, accept for the blocks.



This is what I decided to use in place of the blocks. It is a 2.5 inch add-a-leaf by
Pro-comp. It is designed to go with there 4 inch kit for Bronco’s and F-150’s.



Here are the rear leaves as they came from the factory.



The kit said you needed to take the whole leaf pack off to put the add-a-leaf in but I did not see why, I just un-bolted the U bolts, ground of the upper rivet head, then dropped the axle. To get the factory clamp off that held the leaves in alignment I just pulled the bottom leaf out and then pulled the others sideways, thus bending the bracket and allowing the whole set to fall off.



Here are the factory leaves, the add-a-leaf fit in just under the large one still attached to the truck. The second smallest one had the factory alignment clamp on it so I ground off the head of the rivet holding it on and removed it. Then I cleaned all the leaf’s off with a wire brush greased up the plastic ends and fit them together with the add-a-leaf.



I dropped the axle just enough so that I could get the leaf’s in, after I got everything lined up correctly I used a 9” C-clamp to compress the whole thing together. Then I used the new bolt supplied with the kit and bolted the whole thing back together. I had to use an angle rotary tool with conical bit to remove some of the rust and metal inside the factory shim so that the new bolt head would fit; which was significantly deeper than the factory rivet.



To finish putting the leaf’s together I used the 9” C-clamp and a 4” C-clamp to compress the top three leaves and put on the new alignment clamps. Using the 9” clamp to compress the leaves and the 4” clamp to hold the alignment clamp on, so I could bend the tabs over with a hammer.



After the leaf’s were re-assembled all was left to do was re-bolt the U-bolts and torque them back to factory specs. I also changed the shock, which took nearly as long as putting in the add-a-leaf.



Here’s a picture with the tire back on, I was surprised at the amount of lift it gave me.



Here’s the front before I started, notice the wear on the crapy AutoZone shock that has about 4000 miles on it.



A picture of the nerf bars that would have to go to make way for the new extended radius arm brackets.



Removing the coil was not to bad, used a lot of PB blaster the 2 days before I started and it helped a lot, I would recommend that to any one attempting a lift. After removing the coil and coil seat I found the large stud that holds on the top of the radius arm and the bottom retainer for the coil. After trying to get it off with a wrench for about an hour I called it quits and ordered a 1 1/8” extra deep socket from Snap-On and at 50 dollars I was not a happy camper, but the truck has been in Ohio for 9 years so let’s just say there’s some rust on it. Once the socket came I heated the bottom of it by sticking my propane torch into the TTB arm and hitting it with my impact wretch it came off. I didn’t bother to take the shock aft of the axle off because I was throwing it and the radius arm away.



New spring next to old, not a huge difference but the old one was so warn it would compress about 3” once the full weight was put on it.



The new mounts for the radius arms are to be mounted 15” back from where the old ones were attached. It was not very easy to get the old mounts off; I had to grind off the tops of the rivet heads, and a few bolts that were hopelessly rusted on. With the old ones off I measured the 15” back and clamped the new one on. I used a small plastic “D” clip to hold he brake line up a little so that it would not rub on the bracket. Overall the passenger side went smoothly.



Here is one of the new arms mounted on the Truck. Notice the cam adjusting bolt on the pivot point of the new radius arm. The Tuff Country kit does away with the ford style radius arm bushing, and gives you a grease-able bolt in a poly bushing, much better than having to change those bushings all the time, also giving the alignment shop and easy adjusting point.



Here is the front put back together with out shocks, and I still had plenty of slack in the factory brake lines.



This is the passenger’s side pivot arm bracket, it was fairly easy, unbolt the 4 bolts that hold the old one on, and bolt this one up in its place. The axle pivots also have the cam adjusting bolt allowing for a moderate amount of camber adjustment.



This is the driver’s side axle pivot mount, funny looking little thing.



Here is the new drop bracket installed. I had to use the old hole for the pivot arm and the old bolt to re-mount the bracket, the other bolt is in a new ½” hole I had to drill, the kit came with the new grade 5 bolt.



This is the driver’s side with everything removed, went a lot faster since I knew what I was doing.



The driver’s side radius arm bracket was not as easy as the passenger side, because the fuel lines, parking brake wire, and 2 wire looms of wires were in the way. I had to unbolt the fuel line holder from the frame and zip tie it up out of the way of my drill bit.



Same for the parking brake wire. After I got the new bracket on I had to drill 2 new holes for the fuel line holder and move it up towards the engine. To get it to fit there I had to bend it slightly so that it would not rub the top of the frame, but also so that the fuel lines would not rub the kick-down on the tranny.



Here it is reassembled and back on the ground, I was still waiting on some of the shocks, but I took the picture anyway. I ended up netting 5.5” of lift, because the front was sagging so much, I was very surprised in the end. All I had left to do was re-mount the last 2 shocks and take it to an alignment shop.


As soon as i get pics of the whole thing finished i will post them, it rides far better than it did before the lift, slightly stifer, but no more clunks or random noises from bumps, so far very happy with the reults
 

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FSB's Bastard Child
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Very nice. How much did it cost you? And where did you order from? You cant do i write up without this stuff!:brownbag
 

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FSB's Resident A$$HOLE
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what size tires are you going to add? and what wheels? it looks very nice

wes
 

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Discussion Starter #4
sorry, i ordered the kit from JC Whittney, got the add-a-leaf from 4wheel parts, shocks from a local store and tires from sears, they cost 699.99, 49.99, 230.00, and 730.00 respectivley. I put 32's on it, i bought them before i did the lift, and in hind sight i should have bought bigger ones, but i used the factory rims, so im at the max width thats recomended. Its all done now, after a 200.00 alignment with new bushings on the upper ball joint to fix the camber
 

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negative creep
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DaneW said:
I'm not a genius but I think you may want to replace that grade five hardware with grade 8
i won't even touch grade 5 shit. replace all those bolts now with grade 8 bolts, aero nuts, and grade 8 hardened washers
 

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Discussion Starter #6
im not sure where you can buy new clips, but you should get some, ive heard about the add-a-leaf popping out the side. You could always make some, they arent very complicated

About the fasteners, i wondered about that also, so i asked several mechanics and my welding professor, who has been around welding and metal working for 30 years, and they all said that the grade 5 hardwear would be far stonger than the factory rivots the bolts replaced. (the only new hardwear was in the radius arm brackets and on on the driver's side pivot) I am open to other info, i tried to find some exact info but could not. And it wouldnt hurt to replace it. Ill have some pics of it all done soon, stupid camera eats batteries faster than i can take the pictures
 

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negative creep
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correct me if i'm wrong, but those bolts are new.

also, it seems like with all those adjustable bolts (camber and radius arm bolts) that they could get knocked out of alignment pretty easy.

as for the grade 5 vs grade 8 thing: i just put on my lift and used all new grade 8 bolts. my brackets use more than twice the bolts that yours use and it was still like $20. i just don't see why, its cheap, easy insurance. you also need more strength than the rivets because the longer brackets put more leverage on the frame.

just my $.02
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Andy351 said:

correct me if i'm wrong, but those bolts are new.

also, it seems like with all those adjustable bolts (camber and radius arm bolts) that they could get knocked out of alignment pretty easy.

as for the grade 5 vs grade 8 thing: i just put on my lift and used all new grade 8 bolts. my brackets use more than twice the bolts that yours use and it was still like $20. i just don't see why, its cheap, easy insurance. you also need more strength than the rivets because the longer brackets put more leverage on the frame.

just my $.02


Ya i had my doubts about the adjustable bolts in the pivot points also, but those things were in there pretty darn good, i guess we will see how they last, thus far they havent moved at all.

I never thought about the amount of strees changing as to the new brackets. I really just didnt think about it a whole lot when i was doin it because i figured they people who designed it know alot more about it than I do, but i probubly should switch it out, better safe than sorry and it will be easyer now than down the road when they get all rusty
 

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so even by gettin rid of your factory blocks in the rear to put in these ad-a-leafs you didnt mess up your pinion angle?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i rides about the same as before, the front maybe a little rougher but not a very big differance. I am very happy with the whole thing, and i havent had any trouble with alignment, which was brought up earlyer due to the cam adjustment bolts on the axle pivots and the radius arms. the only complaint i have on the tuff country stuff would be the grease serts on the radius arms like to pop out, so if you use Tuff Country i woud get some JB wled and glue the suckers on so they dont come out. There are some pics of my B'co on super ford with the tires and everything on
 

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thank's for the info i only see 2 company's that make the 2 1/2" lift rough country, and tuff country the only thing i dont like about the tuff country is they dont offer spring's with 2 1/2 " kit. i talked to both company's tuff country did say there spring's were about 10% stiffer than stock. i might go with the rough country if they wont sale the rear leafs seperate. that was the lift my buddy bought i was mistaken. anyway thank's again i cant wait to get mine lifted. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #12
the add-a-leafs i got were onlt 45 bucks, and they have been great. I gottem at 4wheel parts its makes the whole thing level cause they are part of a 4" kit but the rear onlt gets 2.5" so it worked out just right
 

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negative creep
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TRUCKY18 said:
i havent had any trouble with alignment, which was brought up earlyer due to the cam adjustment bolts on the axle pivots and the radius arms.
yes, but how hard have you wheeled it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
not all that much, but shes seen a few trails, i dont have much time for wheelin right now, hopefuly more soon
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ya i know, i bought the tires before i was done, and the kit said 32's were the biggest that would fit, and dumb me belived um. although i didnt realize that it was saging 3" at the time. Next set i get will deffinatly be bigger
 

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NOBS! said:
tell me why his gr 5's are not good enough.:rolleyes:
I agree. Everyone freaks over 5, insisting 8 is better. Yes, though 8 has more strength than 5, they are also more brittle. That is the nature of the beast when it comes to metal. The stronger the material, the more brittle. The grade 5 would be *more than plenty* for the lift, and given that its a softer material, would be more likely to give and streatch than to snap.

BTW, your lift looks great! Im thinking of the 2.5 RC without RA, keeping my 31" tires and gear ratio.

Thanks for a wonderful writeup!!
Andrew
 

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Yes, though 8 has more strength than 5, they are also more brittle. That is the nature of the beast when it comes to metal. The stronger the material, the more brittle.
you sure you have that straight?

grade 5 is more likly to sheer, where as grade 8 is more likly to bend. thats why every one says it's cheap insurence. I can't remember the exacts from my methods and materials book, but I think its mainly the process that the fasteners are put threw in order to be manufactured. that includes the process that the material goes threw in order to be created. like I said, no expert. so if you or anyone else has info I will listen and see if I can find it in my book.
 

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DBrown, not trying to be argumentative, but talk to the guys as a fastner shop. Not Lowes or Home Depot, there absolute idiots anyway. Im talking about a nut and bolt shop, called a fastner shop. Anyway, they make there living on stuff like that. That was the info I gathered from them.

Ill check again and make sure my story is right though, Id hate to be making bum statements. :)
 

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Not Lowes or Home Depot, there absolute idiots anyway.
agree 100%

like I said I'm not 100% positive about the overall strength of the two different bolts.....but everyone I have ever talked to about bolts to use have told me that grade 8 is the way to go when dealing with an important part because of the sheering factor between the two. thats why I wanted to make sure, to me it is more important that someone stays safe. even if I am wrong, my feelings will not get hurt.
 

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Just found this very nice thread, Just what I was looking for. I was wondering if you had to put sway bar drops with the 2.5? Any problems yet with the Tuff country? Thanks
 
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