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FSB Pimpster & Recruiter
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, Is this possible at all and if so how can it be done?

I have dual batteries, but need a single 24 Volt circuit. Do I need a transformer or is there a homemade way to do this without frying evrything else?

Thanx in advance,
Allcruisen :imp :usa
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
cadaver said:
youll need to do a series circuit instead of a parallel one, you will also need some diodes so the circuit remains isolated.
Yeah, I am sorry for not making it clearer, before. I know I need to have the circuit in series, I just wanted to know how to hook up the diode so it wont affect the rest of the system.

Allcruisen :imp :usa

PS I may of just answered my own question here. If I use two Diodes going to the one circuit, then I should nt have any problems?

I am still confused :banghead :banghead :banghead
 

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I need the exact same thing. I'm glad AC is asking this.

I need 24v to run my "new" winch - but of course will need 12v for the rest of the vehicle.

:beer
Bill
 

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If you hook up two batteries in Series...can you draw the 24v across both of them, then pull from individual batteries to draw 12v?

:shrug
Bill
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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I think Bill is right. If you draw from the ground on the first battery and the positive terminal on the second bettery(assuming they are hooked up like the drawing) then you will have 24VDC. You should still be able draw off one battery to get your 12VDC. This is all assumption, I don't know for sure.
 

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Close, but I mean it as you draw off one positive and one negative...you'll get the 12v, then get the 24v by drawing across like you normally would.
 

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It's possible to run the batteries in quasi-parallel for most of the truck, and then in series for the winch, but it would be VERY expensive & sort of dangerous (2 grounds 12V apart). Most of all: it would be pretty pointless.

Use the first (main, original) battery to run the truck. Run 1 heavy wire from the +12V post of the starter relay on the inner fender to the (-) post of the second battery THROUGH a heavy-duty disconnect switch. Run a heavy wire from the second battery's (+) post to the winch's relays. That'll give you 12V to the truck & 24V to the winch.

When you're NOT winching, disconnect the heavy wire between the batteries with the switch & run a 60A fused jumper from the main battery's (+) to the second battery's (+), and ground the second battery's (-). That'll keep it charged. Just be SURE to disconnect those 2 charging jumpers BEFORE re-connecting the disconnect switch.

It could be done more quickly & safely with 2 continuous-duty (winch) relays, but I'd have to draw it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Steve83 said:
It's possible to run the batteries in quasi-parallel for most of the truck, and then in series for the winch, but it would be VERY expensive & sort of dangerous (2 grounds 12V apart). Most of all: it would be pretty pointless.

Use the first (main, original) battery to run the truck. Run 1 heavy wire from the +12V post of the starter relay on the inner fender to the (-) post of the second battery THROUGH a heavy-duty disconnect switch. Run a heavy wire from the second battery's (+) post to the winch's relays. That'll give you 12V to the truck & 24V to the winch.

When you're NOT winching, disconnect the heavy wire between the batteries with the switch & run a 60A fused jumper from the main battery's (+) to the second battery's (+), and ground the second battery's (-). That'll keep it charged. Just be SURE to disconnect those 2 charging jumpers BEFORE re-connecting the disconnect switch.

It could be done more quickly & safely with 2 continuous-duty (winch) relays, but I'd have to draw it up.
This is still not right, I dont think. The way your mentioning Steve, it will give you 24V across, the entire vehicle.

I was thinking somewatt of 4 diodes connected. 1 from the first battery + to the 2nd Battery -. Another from the 2nd battery + to the 1st Battery -. Then from the 2nd battery run a + with a diode {Keeping the current in one direction} to the Winch and a second diode from the - also to the winch.

Now, would that give me an isolated 24V? Or would I be connecting everything 24V?

Sorry about the confusion, I have been out for the past 9 Years.... :twak

Steve, the reason why I hate the idea of having to connect and disconnect in order too get the 24V is because you know in a Time of confusion and rushing to recover the vehicle, Someone is gonna forget to disconnect that 2nd battery and fry their rig.....

I know, recovery should be done with all caution and planned out right, but, thats just Murphy's Law......

I just dont wanna se anyone get hurt trying to connect 24V to a 12V system.

I am gonna go see my buddy tomorrow at the Marine Store. He might have just watt we need.....I ll keep everyone informed.

Allcruisen :imp :usa

PS Bill, You did nt want to ask this question? Or you just want me to look like the fool? LOL :histerica :histerica :toothless
 

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Actually getting the 24V wouold be easy enough, and yes the 12V systems could be run off of the #1 battery & the 24V systems run off both batteries. The big problem I see is charging both batteries. I'd check into how it's done on semi tractors, they have both 24V & 12V circuits, but I think they do the charging at 24V.
 

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allcruisen said:
The way your mentioning Steve, it will give you 24V across, the entire vehicle.
Nope. The truck is only across the main battery. Only the winch is across both.

allcruisen said:
I was thinking somewatt of 4 diodes...
Where you gonna find 4 diodes that can handle 500-1,000 Amps? Or are you suggesting he build 4 banks of 20 50A diodes?

 

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I've gotta say that Steve's plan with the heavy duty switches is the way to go. It's not ideal, but it gets around buying ma$$ive diodes or diode packs, and if you recall transformers only work on AC, not DC, so they're out too. Despite all the trouble I do like the idea of a 24v winch, it should pull less current and therefore have fewer over heating problems than it's 12v counterpart.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Steve83 said:
Nope. The truck is only across the main battery. Only the winch is across both.

Where you gonna find 4 diodes that can handle 500-1,000 Amps? Or are you suggesting he build 4 banks of 20 50A diodes?
Yeah, your right. And yeah, I did nt take the Amps into affect there. :twak

I just hate seeing the reliability of having to disconnect the battery everytime they use the Winch.

I am still gonna check tomorrow at the Marina. Also, Rick, might have the answer there. I wasnt thinking about semis.....

Allcruisen :imp :usa
 

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allcruisen said:
PS Bill, You did nt want to ask this question? Or you just want me to look like the fool? LOL
I was going to wait until I had my bumper and was ready to mount the winch. But you beat me to it. So...I'm more than happy to let you look like the fool :toothless

:beer
Bill
 

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Steve has it, (as usual :) ), but here something else. If you can get instead of double throw switches, double throw relays you could wire them with a toggle switch in the dash to have one normally open, while the other is normally closed. Flip the switch, and you got 24volts.

Adrianspeeder
 

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Again, where you gonna find SPDT relays that can handle 1000A? Finding a couple of 1000A SPDT switches would be hard enough, but building a panel with four 1000A SPST switches would cost less than $50. I can think of a way to do it so it would be impossible to cause a short (or fire, Tim - aka Mr. Optimism! ).
 

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So far no-one has come up with a "10 year old little nephew Johnny proof" answer. All cruisen wants a failsafe system. The best way I have seen would be to upgrade to a 24V alternator connected to two 12V batteries.Connect the existing wiring to one battery and the winch to both. Be prepared to swap the batteries around every now and then to equalise their use.

But seriously wouldn't a 12V winch work out cheaper in the long run?

Tim
 
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