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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently got an awesome 6" lifted 302 88 FSB with seized engine, no keys... no rust, just in need of some love, it was 9 Years in a mechanic shop who bough it like that for project but never had the time to work on it so it was left alone for all that time..
Took it apart, did a full engine rebuild, now engine turn over, crank bridging the solenoid, bough the key cylinder installed it open the ignition fine but do nothing no crank... It crank only when I open the ignition switch and bridge the solenoid... used a circuit tester when I turn the key to start position but nothing no power whatsoever on the ignition cable on the solenoid.. so thats the issue 1.
Issue 2 driving me nuts.
took the gas tank out both gas pumps works fine. build pressure on the line but the injectors doesnt spray, tried with starting fluid it runs for 2-3 secs then shut down due no fuel being deliver.
As it crank by bridging the 2 positive on the solenoid seems like now the injectors aren't pulsing... I did removed tried them externally they work fine as well as the gas pump, installed on the injectors rail check the connectors for power something i noticed both pins are powered so i figured that there was a short in the harness... Im not a mechanic but following the common cense and basic electronics knowledge i think that's not a normal behavior, so I track down there was a diode +<- Sign, positive wire then convert to a negative wire so I just cut the red wire to check, Now only the positive wire gets power but nothing on the other pin, if I attach the tester to the positive terminal on the battery and use the other end to the negative pin no light on tester no power at all... So I think im missing a ground conector...
I've been searching multiple forums looking for some hints where are all the grounds connectors.
Checked all the pins on the harness all seems to be fine engine harness end, injectors harness as well but cant sort it out... I have my doubts on the ECU

here some pictures of my baby and a picture of the diode of the injectors harness in red out gray...
169975

169964
169965



169966
169967


Getting it little by littler, new tyres 37x12.5r15
waiting on radiator, harmonic balancer, new gas tank, sending unit (for gas level), paint appointment once running.
 

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Yo MrADD,
Welcome!
To get you started and to bump your issues to top of page, here's some info. Will be back later to further address fuel issue.

No Crank:
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition key through all positions.

The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch
actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.

Ignition Switch Adjustment: "...

169986

1. ROTATE the ignition key back and forth to either side of lock, until a 1.98 mm (5/64-inch) drill bit can be inserted through the lockpin hole as far as possible (minimum 9.5mm (3/8 inch) ). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube.
2. Loosen the two ignition switch mounting nuts.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK (feel for detent) and remove the ignition key.
4. Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash. Tighten the two ignition switch mounting nuts (TOP NUT FIRST to minimize rod binding) to 4.51-7.34 N.m (40-65 in-lb).
5. Remove the drill bit from the ignition switch lockpin hole.
6. Plug in electrical connector and operate the lock cylinder to ensure the switch is positioned properly.
7. Confirm that all accessories are deactivated with ignition switch in OFF position, and that all accessories are operable in RUN position." by Ford via ARRC
169984

Although you were able to crank engine over by jumping relay, perhaps current flow may have disrupted due to grounds being affected.
Starter relay mounted on passenger side inner fender should be mounted to a clean section because ground is through its body.
170003

A battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts at rest with engine off and all lights and accessories off.
Inspect battery terminals for loose or corroded connections.
Are battery connections terminals clean and tight
including grounds to block, then down to frame & at intake manifold etc., especially after jumping relay and cranking?

169983


Ignition Switch Mechanical Test
NOTE: Accessories that fail to operate with the key in RUN, or that remain on when the key is turned off, may be the result of a misadjusted ignition switch rather than a malfunctioning ignition switch.

NOTE: Do not apply lubricant to the inside of the ignition switch.
Test the steering column ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder (11582) through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition system should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
Loose column
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch.


Our own Paul Bunyon of Big Northern Broncos, Sixlitre described a no crank issue that involved the actuator rod issue in a tilt column, but applicable to non-tilt; "...He turned the key on to crank (nothing happened), reached low on the column, just below the dash, and shoved his pick tool into the column and pulled down. That thing not only rolled over but it started...SO IN CONCLUSION REACH UNDER YOUR DASH AND PULL DOWN ON THAT COLUMN SWITCH ACTUATOR ROD (with the key on) AND SHE'LL LIKELY START RIGHT UP. He told me yes the switches die but they can also "walk" up the column and and get so loose the rod coming down from the key will not actuate the column switch (it's also a sign the $11 switch is about to die). He also recommended I change that pot metal actuator rod assembly (Ford # E9TZ*3E715*B, $16.32 CDN). This took him half an hour and if I'd been able to do it I estimate even after my install lesson would have taken me most of the day..."
Source: by Sixlitre (Malcolm H, Eddie Bauer) at FSB
I won't suggest that you try to manually manipulate actuator if starter rotates with key off because of possible damage to: starter, pinion, flywheel etc. But you can disconnect battery, hook up a meter or 12vdc test lamp and test for continuity on the red/light blue wire Circuit.


Fuel:
169981

169980

169982



Single-Function Reservoir
169985

LOCATED on driver side frame rail near fuel pump.
"An in-line reservoir has been included in the fuel system. Under normal operating conditions, valving in the in-line reservoir allows the high-pressure pump and engine to be supplied with fuel directly from the tank while return flow is routed directly back to the tank. When the pick-up tube is exposed to air, the high pressure pump draws fuel from the reservoir. When the pick-up is again submerged, normal operation resumes."
Testing in 88-89; "...Used on 88-89 Broncos & F-series/E-series/Rangers/others with single tank dual-pump EFI. In this version, the only moving part is the tank-side inlet check valve. The return ports flow freely and are NOT connected to the reservoir. The engine-side supply port is open to the reservoir. To test it, unplug the frame fuel pump, disconnect the engine-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the reservoir nipple, the reservoir is working normally. If not, disconnect the tank-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the line, the reservoir check valve is probably stuck, or its internal filter is clogged. A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..."

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

IF THE DIODE REQUIRING REPLACEMENT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME RATING AS LISTED IN THE APPLICATION CHART, USE THE NEXT HIGHER RATED DIODE.
169979

●■●
Here's the 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 1 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 1... site upgrade rules...
1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 2 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 2... site upgrade rules...


Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, 9How to Use Search and more tips!

➡ See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc.
Try to find time to Participate and VOTE in our current Full-Size of the Month (soon to change to Quarter) Contest and ONGOING Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!

Al
 

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Registered
Joined
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yo MrADD,
Welcome!
To get you started and to bump your issues to top of page, here's some info. Will be back later to further address fuel issue.

No Crank:
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition key through all positions.

The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch
actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.

Ignition Switch Adjustment: "...

View attachment 169986
1. ROTATE the ignition key back and forth to either side of lock, until a 1.98 mm (5/64-inch) drill bit can be inserted through the lockpin hole as far as possible (minimum 9.5mm (3/8 inch) ). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube.
2. Loosen the two ignition switch mounting nuts.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK (feel for detent) and remove the ignition key.
4. Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash. Tighten the two ignition switch mounting nuts (TOP NUT FIRST to minimize rod binding) to 4.51-7.34 N.m (40-65 in-lb).
5. Remove the drill bit from the ignition switch lockpin hole.
6. Plug in electrical connector and operate the lock cylinder to ensure the switch is positioned properly.
7. Confirm that all accessories are deactivated with ignition switch in OFF position, and that all accessories are operable in RUN position." by Ford via ARRC
View attachment 169984
Although you were able to crank engine over by jumping relay, perhaps current flow may have disrupted due to grounds being affected.
Starter relay mounted on passenger side inner fender should be mounted to a clean section because ground is through its body.
View attachment 170003
A battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts at rest with engine off and all lights and accessories off.
Inspect battery terminals for loose or corroded connections.
Are battery connections terminals clean and tight
including grounds to block, then down to frame & at intake manifold etc., especially after jumping relay and cranking?

View attachment 169983

Fuel:
View attachment 169981
View attachment 169980
View attachment 169982


Single-Function Reservoir
View attachment 169985
LOCATED on driver side frame rail near fuel pump.
"An in-line reservoir has been included in the fuel system. Under normal operating conditions, valving in the in-line reservoir allows the high-pressure pump and engine to be supplied with fuel directly from the tank while return flow is routed directly back to the tank. When the pick-up tube is exposed to air, the high pressure pump draws fuel from the reservoir. When the pick-up is again submerged, normal operation resumes."
Testing in 88-89; "...Used on 88-89 Broncos & F-series/E-series/Rangers/others with single tank dual-pump EFI. In this version, the only moving part is the tank-side inlet check valve. The return ports flow freely and are NOT connected to the reservoir. The engine-side supply port is open to the reservoir. To test it, unplug the frame fuel pump, disconnect the engine-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the reservoir nipple, the reservoir is working normally. If not, disconnect the tank-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the line, the reservoir check valve is probably stuck, or its internal filter is clogged. A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..."

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

IF THE DIODE REQUIRING REPLACEMENT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME RATING AS LISTED IN THE APPLICATION CHART, USE THE NEXT HIGHER RATED DIODE.
View attachment 169979
●■●
Here's the 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 1 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 1... site upgrade rules...
1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 2 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 2... site upgrade rules...


Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, 9How to Use Search and more tips!

➡ See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc.
Try to find time to Participate and VOTE in our current Full-Size of the Month (soon to change to Quarter) Contest and ONGOING Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!

Al
THANKS! ill check those on weekend ill keep you posted.
 

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Registered
Joined
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8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yo MrADD,
Welcome!
To get you started and to bump your issues to top of page, here's some info. Will be back later to further address fuel issue.

No Crank:
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition key through all positions.

The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch
actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.

Ignition Switch Adjustment: "...

View attachment 169986
1. ROTATE the ignition key back and forth to either side of lock, until a 1.98 mm (5/64-inch) drill bit can be inserted through the lockpin hole as far as possible (minimum 9.5mm (3/8 inch) ). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube.
2. Loosen the two ignition switch mounting nuts.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK (feel for detent) and remove the ignition key.
4. Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash. Tighten the two ignition switch mounting nuts (TOP NUT FIRST to minimize rod binding) to 4.51-7.34 N.m (40-65 in-lb).
5. Remove the drill bit from the ignition switch lockpin hole.
6. Plug in electrical connector and operate the lock cylinder to ensure the switch is positioned properly.
7. Confirm that all accessories are deactivated with ignition switch in OFF position, and that all accessories are operable in RUN position." by Ford via ARRC
View attachment 169984
Although you were able to crank engine over by jumping relay, perhaps current flow may have disrupted due to grounds being affected.
Starter relay mounted on passenger side inner fender should be mounted to a clean section because ground is through its body.
View attachment 170003
A battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts at rest with engine off and all lights and accessories off.
Inspect battery terminals for loose or corroded connections.
Are battery connections terminals clean and tight
including grounds to block, then down to frame & at intake manifold etc., especially after jumping relay and cranking?

View attachment 169983

Fuel:
View attachment 169981
View attachment 169980
View attachment 169982


Single-Function Reservoir
View attachment 169985
LOCATED on driver side frame rail near fuel pump.
"An in-line reservoir has been included in the fuel system. Under normal operating conditions, valving in the in-line reservoir allows the high-pressure pump and engine to be supplied with fuel directly from the tank while return flow is routed directly back to the tank. When the pick-up tube is exposed to air, the high pressure pump draws fuel from the reservoir. When the pick-up is again submerged, normal operation resumes."
Testing in 88-89; "...Used on 88-89 Broncos & F-series/E-series/Rangers/others with single tank dual-pump EFI. In this version, the only moving part is the tank-side inlet check valve. The return ports flow freely and are NOT connected to the reservoir. The engine-side supply port is open to the reservoir. To test it, unplug the frame fuel pump, disconnect the engine-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the reservoir nipple, the reservoir is working normally. If not, disconnect the tank-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the line, the reservoir check valve is probably stuck, or its internal filter is clogged. A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..."

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

IF THE DIODE REQUIRING REPLACEMENT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME RATING AS LISTED IN THE APPLICATION CHART, USE THE NEXT HIGHER RATED DIODE.
View attachment 169979
●■●
Here's the 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 1 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 1... site upgrade rules...
1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 2 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 2... site upgrade rules...


Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, 9How to Use Search and more tips!

➡ See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc.
Try to find time to Participate and VOTE in our current Full-Size of the Month (soon to change to Quarter) Contest and ONGOING Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!

Al
Yo MrADD,
Welcome!
To get you started and to bump your issues to top of page, here's some info. Will be back later to further address fuel issue.

No Crank:
Test the ignition system mechanical operation by rotating the ignition key through all positions.

The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch
actuator inside steering column is broken or ignition switch is loose.

Ignition Switch Adjustment: "...

View attachment 169986
1. ROTATE the ignition key back and forth to either side of lock, until a 1.98 mm (5/64-inch) drill bit can be inserted through the lockpin hole as far as possible (minimum 9.5mm (3/8 inch) ). The lock pin hole is located on the right of the switch next to the steering column tube.
2. Loosen the two ignition switch mounting nuts.
3. Turn the ignition to LOCK (feel for detent) and remove the ignition key.
4. Move the switch up and down along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash. Tighten the two ignition switch mounting nuts (TOP NUT FIRST to minimize rod binding) to 4.51-7.34 N.m (40-65 in-lb).
5. Remove the drill bit from the ignition switch lockpin hole.
6. Plug in electrical connector and operate the lock cylinder to ensure the switch is positioned properly.
7. Confirm that all accessories are deactivated with ignition switch in OFF position, and that all accessories are operable in RUN position." by Ford via ARRC
View attachment 169984
Although you were able to crank engine over by jumping relay, perhaps current flow may have disrupted due to grounds being affected.
Starter relay mounted on passenger side inner fender should be mounted to a clean section because ground is through its body.
View attachment 170003
A battery that is fully charged produces 12.6 volts at rest with engine off and all lights and accessories off.
Inspect battery terminals for loose or corroded connections.
Are battery connections terminals clean and tight
including grounds to block, then down to frame & at intake manifold etc., especially after jumping relay and cranking?

View attachment 169983

Fuel:
View attachment 169981
View attachment 169980
View attachment 169982


Single-Function Reservoir
View attachment 169985
LOCATED on driver side frame rail near fuel pump.
"An in-line reservoir has been included in the fuel system. Under normal operating conditions, valving in the in-line reservoir allows the high-pressure pump and engine to be supplied with fuel directly from the tank while return flow is routed directly back to the tank. When the pick-up tube is exposed to air, the high pressure pump draws fuel from the reservoir. When the pick-up is again submerged, normal operation resumes."
Testing in 88-89; "...Used on 88-89 Broncos & F-series/E-series/Rangers/others with single tank dual-pump EFI. In this version, the only moving part is the tank-side inlet check valve. The return ports flow freely and are NOT connected to the reservoir. The engine-side supply port is open to the reservoir. To test it, unplug the frame fuel pump, disconnect the engine-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the reservoir nipple, the reservoir is working normally. If not, disconnect the tank-side supply (large) line, and cycle the key. If fuel flows out of the line, the reservoir check valve is probably stuck, or its internal filter is clogged. A reservoir marked "DO NOT REMOVE CUP" does not contain a filter. For a replacement O-ring for the cup, buy a NAPA 3268 (or equivalent) filter..."

Try a Self Test for Diagnostic Trouble Codes by my pal, BroncoJoe19 @ Code Reader.....

IF THE DIODE REQUIRING REPLACEMENT DOES NOT HAVE THE SAME RATING AS LISTED IN THE APPLICATION CHART, USE THE NEXT HIGHER RATED DIODE.
View attachment 169979
●■●
Here's the 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 1 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 1... site upgrade rules...
1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure, part 2 by Ford via member sneal @ 1988 Bronco Dealer Brochure part 2... site upgrade rules...


Register with VIN to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, 9How to Use Search and more tips!

➡ See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc.
Try to find time to Participate and VOTE in our current Full-Size of the Month (soon to change to Quarter) Contest and ONGOING Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!

Al
Well here an Update.
Now it cranks with the key, still not start :( (ended up being the switch in the steering column the one that connects to the harness + bad solenoid.)
What've done to troubleshoot
Replaced Injectors, ECM from RockAuto Matching the ECM part of my rig, Verified & cleaned all Grounds surface just to make sure... replaced the sensors on the intake air valve control, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Just in case those last two
If I throw some starting fluid it seems like it start but cant keep up since no gas is being poured by the injectors. (Already check injectors) there is spark, timing has been check.
Injectors have power but no pulse at all when cranking..., something weird- the ECM i got it from Rock auto...
Fuel pump is building up pressure so already discarded that option.
the injectors need the pulse I don't know what else check

PS- Bought this with a seized engine it was left like that for more than 9 years...
 

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Get a noid light to confirm the injectors are receiving a firing pulse. Usually these can be rented from the auto parts store.
 
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Try it now!!
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Well here an Update.
Now it cranks with the key, still not start :( (ended up being the switch in the steering column the one that connects to the harness + bad solenoid.)
What've done to troubleshoot
Replaced Injectors, ECM from RockAuto Matching the ECM part of my rig, Verified & cleaned all Grounds surface just to make sure... replaced the sensors on the intake air valve control, Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Just in case those last two
If I throw some starting fluid it seems like it start but cant keep up since no gas is being poured by the injectors. (Already check injectors) there is spark, timing has been check.
Injectors have power but no pulse at all when cranking..., something weird- the ECM i got it from Rock auto...
Fuel pump is building up pressure so already discarded that option.
the injectors need the pulse I don't know what else check

PS- Bought this with a seized engine it was left like that for more than 9 years...
Does the yellow check engine light illuminate when you turn the key to ON (before START)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does the yellow check engine light illuminate when you turn the key to ON (before START)?
I have the dash taken apart so I think It does, there are two lights on when I Switch the ignition key.
 

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Steady light should indicate it is constantly spraying fuel. Check if the injector harness is grounded. The tan/red and tan/orange are the ground side of the harness but should not be shorted to ground unless the EEC commands it.

When cranking does the fuel pump start running again? It should prime and turn off. When it sees the PIP signal the fuel pump should start. Another way to check is loosen the distributor, turn the key to run and turn the distributor, this should also start the fuel pump.
 

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I have the dash taken apart so I think It does, there are two lights on when I Switch the ignition key.
You most likely have a grounding issue, before you spent any more money look at the diagrams Miesk provided and verify all grounds are good...
 

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Try it now!!
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9,122 Posts
I have the dash taken apart so I think It does, there are two lights on when I Switch the ignition key.
If it DOES illuminate, your ECU is getting power. It fires the injectors by grounding 4 of them at a time (Speed Density systems fire 4 at once, in 2 banks), but it needs a bunch of other info to do that.

So narrowing it down...

1. Your ECU is getting power
2. It's not commanding any injectors to fire
3. It's most likely not getting all the info it needs to fire injectors.

I doubt the original ECU was bad, but that's ok.

Grounds are a common culprit but hard to verify for certain.

Those schematics will be your best friend to figure out what info the ECU is not getting. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Here's an Update, an electro mechanic came by to see the problem with the bronco, says everything was fine with the wiring but noticed that the EEC does not correspond to the engine.
EEC-IV EFI-SD20B this a EEC for 5.8 Engine, mine has 5.0 - 305 EFI
Rookie mistake I had to run the vin first before throw money at it... so now that I check on the VIN the car was originally a 5.8 sadly I live in Panama is almost imposible to get this engine... So I think the easiest way to solve this problem is switching to Carb unless someone can give me some hind what should i do.

Regards,
AR
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Can someone help me with the ECU diagram EEC-IV EFI-SD20B E8TF-12A650 so I can try to re-wire the injectors lead and sensors.
Regards,
AR
 

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Try it now!!
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Solved! it was a negative wire that was disconnected but never found the other side of the plug so i connected the negative needed to the battery in order to make the injectors pulse now start! thanks everyone who took the time to help me out! @kf4amu @NYFSB @Narve @miesk5
those are the most frustrating....I've been there
 
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