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Master Bater
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I figured since this was of interest to a few people I would put the pics in this thread alone, and some info. ill put it in the tech write ups, if anyone thinks it needs close up pics or more info, let me know and i can add it.

This is the original way to attach to the linkage arm. the little nipple thing came from high angle, and this was how I originally attachd to it. i didnt like the linkage so i went to the JY and found a a better cable.



I got a cable from the passenger side of a 1986 Lincoln Mrk viii. Spread it out a bit (it has two sides to it, and the lever sits sandwiched between them), and the cotter pin fits perfect. i did grind the lever a little so the pin hole was cleared a little better.



The line is about 26 or 30" long. The bracket that originally held the line to the mark viii was cut and then welded to the 205. it works perfect.


From Right to left is the cable end through the bronco 2 line holder. it had two holes (is the one on the frame above the rear spring front mount usually) i cut it down and welded it to the frame. The cable end terminates in a typical little nipple just like the stock bronco line. then it is attached to a pulley. the doubled over line is the intermediate line from the bronco that ran from the foot pedal line to the two line balance bar that came on the bronco. It is double back into a pickup style adjusting balance bar, and that is attached to the original pedal line. i also kept the spring from the mark viii to help with pedal return. the two springs together back the caliper off perfectly to reduce drag as much as possible.





The next pics are just a series of the brake installed. this is behind a 205, to a klune to an E40D. I had to clearance the floor with a BFH, cut the heat shield, and notched the body support to fit the 205 (which is clocked a few degrees up.







Here are some pics of the bracket, rotor and caliper that come in the kit.






 

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Premium Member
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3,109 Posts
Looks like what I expected. I know my tcase sits way too close to the floor pan to fit without mods, but it looks like the mods would be easy. A little bump in the floor between the seats should be all I'd need.

How is the performance? It's good if it'll hold you on a steep slope, but can you stop the truck with it? I understand that having the brake ahead of the gearing multiplies the effective force of the brake by the gear ratio, I suspect it's almost as good as the service brakes.

Do you think it would be easy to hook up a hand brake? There isn't much to the linkage, it looks like it would be pretty flexible to hook up different handles and pedals.

Nice job, I'm also curious as to what it cost you if you don't mind telling :popc1:
 

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Master Bater
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7,268 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I dont recall the cost, Im sure its on highangles site. I already had the flange, so it was just the cost of the ebrake.

I havent tried it out yet, the truck is stillin pieces. I hear they work very well.

The prob with a hand brake is that you need a 4 to 1 leverage, and most hand brakes dont have that. Lokar makes one however.
 

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Super Moderator
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27,269 Posts
thanks Plug! great info!!! not much info on the install elsewhere; keep it up!
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,026 Posts
plug ugly said:
I dont recall the cost, Im sure its on highangles site. I already had the flange, so it was just the cost of the ebrake.

I havent tried it out yet, the truck is stillin pieces. I hear they work very well.

The prob with a hand brake is that you need a 4 to 1 leverage, and most hand brakes dont have that. Lokar makes one however.
Excellent Damon!!:thumbup

But of course I have questions:

Is the flange your are using still stock driveline (think you are using 1350 joints, but is your flange the same as mine (stock '95)?

what did you end up with for exact diameter of the rotor?

The behind pics are great (side against the 205), but I'm not quite following how the mechanism actually works....is that rod going from the cable over to the actual caliper and pad just pushing on the back of one pad, or???:scratchhe :shrug

lastly, when will you be able to test? This is real nice man. I'm glad now that I waited and didn't go buying new rear calipers that have the ebrake (which I would then have to grind to clearance my 15" wheels).
 

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Master Bater
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Shadofax said:
Is the flange your are using still stock driveline (think you are using 1350 joints, but is your flange the same as mine (stock '95)?
its a 205 flange, but same dimensions. The rear needs to be machined to locate the rotor (sorta like a hub centric design)

I havent measured the rotor yet

Shadofax said:
The behind pics are great (side against the 205), but I'm not quite following how the mechanism actually works....is that rod going from the cable over to the actual caliper and pad just pushing on the back of one pad, or???:scratchhe :shrug ).
yeah, thats pretty much it. The outside pad is fixed like a normal caliper, and the inside pad is leveraged against the rotor. (more or less. If you look at pics 9/10, you can see how the arm pivots. The inside pad moves in toward rotor, when it stops, the outside pad squeezis in a little to compensate)
 
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