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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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Can you make a video of the symptoms? Maybe with the truck driving past or over the camera at low speed?
 

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Discussion Starter #22
yes i can try, probably Wednesday. i work a lot of hours, i may have to leave for dreadful NY for work on wednesday though
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I agree with @twofortyz , definitely sounds transmission related. Try adjusting the shifter linkage first, if that doesn't work, try a find a reputable transmission shop.
 

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Yo Putman911,

You wrote, "My 86 full size Bronco is grinding in reverse and park slips. This only occurs in 2wd, 4hi. 4low is fine..."
As for "park slips", when transmission is in Park, if your Bronco rolls forward or backward more than an inch or so after placing the shifter lever into “P” Park, the parking pawl may be badly worn. If your vehicle rolls more than a couple of inches, or rolls freely, after placing the shifter into Park, the parking pawl may be broken.

AllI can offer without visually inspecting and using a mechanics stethoscope with a long hose to help locate the noise; have parking pawl inspected.
159638

159639

159640


Transfer Case, NP 208;
"Grinding noises coming from underneath the vehicle. When the output shaft seal breaks or wears out, it also can cause noises to appear from under the vehicle. In many cases, these noises are caused by the reduction of lubricants inside the transfer case or metal-to-metal grinding."
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Thanks for all of the reply’s! I’m going to look into all of this. I will come back with a update soon!
Thanks guys!
 

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If you have to remove the transmission, I'd still recommend taking a look at your transfer case. Something's up if it's leaking that much fluid.
Pulling apart a transfer case is much, much easier than a transmission (especially an automatic).

I highly recommend busting the yoke retaining nuts off while it's still in the vehicle. It's way harder to keep it still and get the leverage on them when it's on the workbench. Been there... done that. It wasn't fun. I had to bolt it up to a spare transmission I had to keep it still. Or, of course, an impact wrench helps too.

From there, you just separate the case in half, tap out the old seals and gaskets, and tap in new ones. If you want to get in further, replace the bearings as well (which I'd recommend since it was so low on fluid). Lastly, replace the chain, and you should be good to go.

The gasket and seal kit is cheap:


The full rebuild kit isn't half bad either:


Then the chain


Lastly, if you want to be completely thorough, you can get the small parts kit (most of this stuff you can generally reuse, so it's optional):

 

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You clearly have a parking pawl issue. I should have replied to this last week
If the transfercase has failed, the paking pawl will not work. I still need to read up rest of thread below your post too. Thats why I asked if there was grinding going back into park. That grinding would be the parking pawl riding over the parking gear.
 

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If the transfercase is holding park in 4wd, then you REALLY need to focus on just the transfercase. #1 symptom of a failed transfercase is a grinding noise while placing back into park when truck won't move in drive or reverse. Also, automatic transmissions rarely grind....they just slip. Manuals grind and transfercases are set up like manuals as far as gear selection therefore they will grind more often then an automatic.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I’ve been looking for a used c6 tranny I can throw in there while I tear down my own, ive only found one it’s actually rebuilt and it’s for a 2wd. Which I guess to convert it I’d need a 4x4 tail shaft and housing? I’m going to pull the transfer case to take a look whenever I have off, hopefully tomorrow if it’s not raining still!
 

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Discussion Starter #32
just to help me wrap my head around the situation. How does the transfer case affect the parking gear?
 

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just to help me wrap my head around the situation. How does the transfer case affect the parking gear?
If the transfer case fails, it's acts as neutral.
Which means no park as the transfer case no longer acts as a brake.

This is why grinding, is 95% of the time, the transfer case if you have an automatic.

I been here...a few times in my 28 years of owning Broncos. If everything works as it should in 4wd then this should tell you something. It means the transmission is feeding input to the transfer case and the transfer case is able to provide output when in 4wd gear. It just can't in 2wd.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
sackman:thumbsup
i was trying to make since of it and you spelled it out perfect for me as i over think stuff. next step is ordering parts then get back from NY and tear that transfer case out/down
 

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If your transfer case has gotten to that point where it's grinding and slipping, be prepared that you may need more than just bearings and a rebuilt. It may need some internal parts, such as new shift forks. If the forks are worn, they won't be able to get the selector far enough to engage the gears/teeth properly.




But, you won't be able ascertain that until it's opened up.

If you want to look through the pictures of my BW1356 rebuilt, it will give you an idea of how the transfer case works inside. The NP-208 will be different (being a different model) but very similar.

 

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The other part you may need is the selector gear itself:

This is the connection that's moved back and forth with the shifter. If you look down in the hole, you can see two different rows of teeth with an open slot between them. One row of teeth is HIGH, the slot is neutral, and the other row is LOW. You might have teeth sheered off.

 
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