Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,264 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This page is for those that need help converting there auto hubs to manual hubs. My manual hubs are mile marker premiums. I had to buy there conversion kit also. I bought all the parts from summit racing. I get all my parts from summit b/c they have awesome customer service and a low price guarantee.

tools you will need to complete the conversion


this is the milemarker hubs and conversion kit(con.kit doesn't come with the hub socket).


if your autos have 3 bolts like the pic then you need the conversion kit. if you have 5 bolts you do not need the kit and the process is a little different.


step 1: unscrew the 3 small screws with a t25 torx screwdriver, and take the cap off. you will see this when the cap is off the hub.


step 2: you have to get the ring out that is holding the hub in. this is the hardest step of the conversion. you may not beable to see the ring until you remove the grease that may be hiding it. it is a pita to get out. use a small screwdriver or a pick to get it out. this is the hub and ring removed along with the tools I use to do it.


step 3: now you need to remove the small c-clip with a screwdriver and then remove the three washers behind it. one of the washers has teeth that fit the splines in the axle. once you get the washers out you need to take out the gear behind that. it should just slide out.

now it should look like this


step 4: there is another small c-clip that must be removed. this clip is not attached to the axle shaft, it is used to keep the retainer from coming loose. all you have to do is pull it straight out. use a pick to get it out. once you get it out you have to unscrew the retainer. it is not very tight so it shouldn't be hard to get out.

this is what it will look like now.


step 5: now you need to put on the nuts from the conversion kit. screw on the nut that has the pin(1), with the pin facing out. using the hub socket torque to specs. when torqueing turn the wheel so the bearings don't get in a bind. then put on the washer(2) so the pin goes thru one of the wholes. you may have to loosen or tighten the first nut just a little to get the pin to line up. finally, put on the last nut(3) and torque to specs.


step 6: now you need to put the inside of the new hub in. it should just slide in. once you get in on you need to attach the snap ring. it will fit in the groove of the axle shaft. if there is not enough room you may need to push the axle out from behind the spindle with a crow bar to get the snap ring in the groove. once you get the snap ring in thread in 2 of the screws and push the hub in and out. there should be a little movement according to the insructions. i have some movement on mine. finally, all you have to do is torque up the outside hub cover using the six screws that came with the hub and you are done. oh yes, lock and unlock the hubs to make sure there is no binding anywhere.


this is the before and after pics of the hubs.


ONE LAST THING....go get them muddy!!!!

******if you cannot see the pictures very well you can find this page on my website with larger images. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2143953********
 

·
Engineer
Joined
·
13,165 Posts
Nice write up. It may have been a good idea or repack the wheel bearings as long as you did 90% of the work but oh well too late now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Does anybody know if the conversion kit is required to change the factory MANUAL hubs with 3 screws to aftermarkets? This is on a D50 TTB if that makes a difference.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,177 Posts
May I ask, what are the torque specs on this conversion? (Or, where can I find them?)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
74 Posts
Torque specs

Ziggy_Moto,

According to Haynes, the inner spindle nut gets torqued to 50 ft lbs while turning the hub. Back the nut off 1/4 turn and install the retainer ring on the inner nut (if holes do not line up it is better to loosen than tighten this nut). Once the retainer is installed, install the other spindle nut and torque to 150 ft lbs.

Hope this helps.

NineT3
 

·
Some assembly required!
Joined
·
5,402 Posts
I was grabbing a spindle out of the pull-a-part the other day and had to remove one of these three screw auto hubs. As previously mentioned, by far the hardest part of this whole thing is removing that outer snap ring. I found that it was considerably easier to remove it if you push the hub itself in. It will slide in about 1/16" against some spring pressure, so you'll have to either hold it there or use a clamp of some sort. That is just enough to take the tension off of the circumference of the snap ring, which in turn allow you to stick a pick under it's edge a lot easier.
 

·
Biebs Ain't BabyDaddy!
Joined
·
11,159 Posts
Kwerstion. I've got the same 3-screw hub assembly on my 96. What size hub socket is it that I need? I picked one up at Advance about a year ago to do a hub swap, but I don't know which axle it's for offhand, or if it is the one I actually need.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
183 Posts
OK, what tool did you use to get the Ford "retainer" nut off ?? I have also seen it called "axle locknut" and "hex wheel bearing locknut". Thank for the great wright up ,this has helped a lot and the pic. are worth a 1000 words.
Sean
 

·
Satyr of the Midwest
Joined
·
17,736 Posts
The spindle nut (aka conversion) kit is available at most NAPA stores. Part number BK 6301654, they list it as the replacement for Broncos with automatic hubs, which is completely wrong on their part. About $15 each side.



If you have patience to wait for shipping and want to save some money, JBG has them for a bit less.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hylander

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
JBG seems to have the best price as listed above.

You can also still get the kit from Ford, service part number D2TZ-1198-A, $20 per side without any kind of discounts.

As a side note, anybody know a good place to get a replacement O-ring that seals around the cap? It's not serviced seperately from Ford.

--Otter
 

·
I see Broncos
Joined
·
6,011 Posts
JBG seems to have the best price as listed above.

You can also still get the kit from Ford, service part number D2TZ-1198-A, $20 per side without any kind of discounts.

As a side note, anybody know a good place to get a replacement O-ring that seals around the cap? It's not serviced seperately from Ford.

--Otter

For this I would contact the lockout manufacturer and get the proper specs for the o-ring. As for finding it locally I would run by your local hardware store or even a Napa style autoparts store. If you have some good people working there all they have to see is the lockout and will find you the right O-ring.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
Found the service part number!

I got lucky and found the replacement O-rings. The manual hub locks I picked up are Ford (which are made by Warn). I contacted Warn, and the guy did a little digging and came up with a Ford Service Part Number...

E3TZ-1K106-B, Seal Kit

It is for the Ford auto hub (also made by Warn), but the O-Ring is the same between the manual and auto hubs. The Seal Kit above contains (1) O-ring and (1) replacement "AUTOMATIC 4X4" metal badge that goes on the auto hub. Use it for target practice I guess.

Now to get 'em changed before the next snow fall...

--Otter
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,130 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,130 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,248 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
159 Posts
Has anyone used either of these packaged conversion kits, i just want to be sure all the parts i need are there. Also any preference as the which one.
Warn premium
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32126_manual_hub_conversion_kit__from_auto_to_warn_premium.htm
or
Mile Marker
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-32132_1980-96_mile_marker_stainless_supreme_hub_conversion_kit.htm
I just installed the Warn Premium hub conversion kit. Yes it has everything you need to complete the install. Be sure to call and confirm in-stock status with BGY before you place an order. They were out of the Mile Marker kits when I called.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
One Question so when you want it in 4 wheel drive, do you push the button and then get out or do you lock in the hubs? Just wondering.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top