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Addicted to Junk
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Discussion Starter #201
I believe there is a Ford 9" rear axle our of an early 80's van that is wider and might allow you to go with out needing wheel spacers.
Yeah, if I'm swapping axles, it's getting a sterling... I do believe the Vans were a bit wider at one point. Or even a dually axle, which is 4 " wider. But that's a whole can of worms I dont wanna open right now. Plus then I dont have the locker I have now.

While I'm not thrilled about the spacers, they'll do. Other than the extra fasteners it's no different than running a wheel with 2" less backspace. I'll put em on and try em out, and possibly take them off for moab.
 

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Discussion Starter #202
So I got the spacers put on. TrailGear 2" they are CNC machined (I can tell by the machining marks) and seem quality upon visual inspection.

Before


After


Much better!
 

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Looks sort off off balance, i agree. Any thought to cutting the fenders, follow the inset around each wheel well, use nibblers. That would eliminate the holes and provide clearance if you wanted to lose a few inches of list.

Whats the storyr on that exhaust? Looks like something i would do
 

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Discussion Starter #204
Looks sort off off balance, i agree. Any thought to cutting the fenders, follow the inset around each wheel well, use nibblers. That would eliminate the holes and provide clearance if you wanted to lose a few inches of list.

Whats the storyr on that exhaust? Looks like something i would do
First, these are cutout flares, so the factory fenders have already been hogged out by the previous owner, and I dont know what's behind the flares. I'm running a mere 6" lift with room for 40"+ tires.



Second, the exhaust is home built using pipe and mandrel bends bought from summit.

Old vs new


Full system laid out


My build thread on it
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/462017-85-bronco-300-i6-exhaust.html
 

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very very very nice, i can appreciate the work that went into that exhaust.

I guess theres always the option to trim the flares back some?
 

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Discussion Starter #206
very very very nice, i can appreciate the work that went into that exhaust.

I guess theres always the option to trim the flares back some?
Thank you! Lots of cutting, adjusting and cutting some more.

The flares are hollow, so trimming them isn't an option. I'd already thought of that. I'm fine with the spacers until I can snag some proper wheels.
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Getting prepped to put the engine in. I got my fuel system done up to the point I can hook it up when the engine goes in. I do need a 90° fitting to hook it up though. It's a -06AN line with a 100micron filter followed by a 10micron filter. This keeps the 10micron filter from clogging up as fast.

100micron filter is from Kluhsman Racing (2"x7") and the 10 micron filter is from Summit (1.75"×5").



I've got the bell housing back on and all my power steering fittings in. All that's left before the engine goes in is mounting the new slave cylinder and mounting the flywheel and clutch!
 

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Discussion Starter #208
Struggled getting the old transmission pilot bearing out of the crank. It was pretty destroyed by after an hour of whacking and pulling.

Also wanted to show the difference between my cheap throwout bearing vs the apparently even cheaper old one. My new one is made entirely of metal, whereas much of the old one is plastic.



Got the clutch put on and ready to drop in! Engine hoist is maxed out in height. Whoops, too long, gotta rotate it 90°...



But dont fear, it fits!





However, I noticed my rockers are not centered on my valves side to side. This is due to my guideplates. I made them a touch too narrow I believe, even though I did it to a posted proper spec. Gonna have to pull the rockers and grind out the guideplates a bit. Oh well, it's an easy fix!
 

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It's looking good.

That's a nice looking fuel system you've got there!

How did you try to remove the pilot bearing? I've had very good luck using the hydraulic method. I usually pack the center of the pilot bearing/bushing with wheel bearing grease. Once it's packed full, I use a punch or dowel pin that is a fairly tight fit to the pilot bearing opening. Hit the dowel/punch with a hammer. It compresses the grease and pushes the bearing out. You add more grease as the bearing pushes out. I've gotten some real stubborn pilot bearings out this way. Before I had a old timer teach me this trick I actually had to chisel thru a couple bearings to remove them.:banghead

And it doesn't have to be grease. I've seen people use paper that was soaked in water. Hell a friend of mine even used some old slices of bread that he soaked in water.:toothless


That new throw out bearing looks a lot better then the old one. I hate when they use plastic on parts that take a lot of abuse!!



Man I hate seeing engine hoist lifted that high! I've had a few bad mishaps doing that. Now I always take the time to pull the front clip off the body. It can be a pain but it sure makes life easier installing and working on the engine. If I can't then I like to build a quick A-frame style lift with a chain hoist to install the engine.


It looks like you are getting real close to firing the beast up!!
 

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Discussion Starter #210
I totally forgot about that method!

I used a chisel and seal removal tool to pry the rollers and cage out, then was able to push the inner bearing case back into the bore and get one jaw of a slide hammer in the main chunk.

No faith in the HF hoist??? Haha! I use it for all sorts of crap. Yeah, I should have let the air out of the tires at least, but it's in and supporting itself now. If you can't tell from some of my pics, I dont have hardly any room to work in this shop. No room for big gantrys. The new shop on the other hand... itll have a 2 post lift and all sorts of helpful additions.
 

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My concern isn't so much the hoist failing. It's more chains breaking or bolts pulling out, or the hoist tipping one way or the other. When it happens, it's like everything is in slow motion.

Room or no room at least you have a shop with a roof. My shop is a concrete slab on the end of my house ( aka my driveway!:thumbup And right now it has around a foot of snow covering it. So I'm just dreaming of spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #212
Tipping was my only concern. Was using grade 8 fasteners in very sturdy holes with a piece of new heavy duty load chain rated for thousands of pounds.

Yeah, very thankful to have a shop, no matter how cluttered it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #213
With the help of pmuller on the fordsix forum, we narrowed my rocker tip issue down to my guideplates being too narrow. Time to buy new ones, make a new jig, and weld them up again

:banghead

But I can do it all with the engine as it sits in the bronco, so it's not all bad
 

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What's the longest stroke you can put in this engine?
 

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What's the longest stroke you can put in this engine?
Increasing the stroke really isn't worth it. The 300 already has a marginally bad connecting rod ratio. Going to a larger stroke would just make that worse. Then you figure that the cylinder head is a major restriction for 300 cubes. Adding more displacement only makes it an even bigger restriction. But there have been a few people to get a steel crank and have it offset ground. But most people that mess with the stroke actually destroke the 300.


A better option is a long rod set up. You keep the 300's stock 3.98" stroke and run a longer 240 inline 6 Connecting rod. Then you run a shorter custom piston. This gives you a better rod ratio. Which give less side loading of the pistons. And the shorter pistons are lighter for less rotating mass.
 

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Discussion Starter #217
What's the longest stroke you can put in this engine?
About 4.1". Stock is 3.98". The reason for this is the 300 is already a stroked 240. Also what fordman said...

However, the 300 is capable of making 600 HP naturally aspirated. To do this you'll need a big pocketbook or a hell of a knowledge about machining. You need either a $10k Alan Johnson race only head or chop and weld some Cleveland heads together. Or buy Bruce Sizemore's new stage 3 head when it comes out. Then you need a 14:1 compression ratio and a really big cam. Follow that with 3 -2bbl carbs and some 2" primary headers, custom of course.

The Frenchtown flyer races a 550 hp 3xx big six in a mid engine dragster. He's running basically what I posted above, but has one of the experimental Ford crossflow 300 heads (rarer than a meteorite hitting a hen with teeth), as he was a Ford engineer at that time. You can find him on YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter #218
So I was randomly pondering yesterday at work. I realized I had forgotten to do something before putting the engine in...

I forgot to use thread sealer on my flywheel bolts! Sonofabitch! That means I have to pull the engine, pull the clutch, and pull the flywheel.
@AbandonedBronco I did remember the shield in between though haha
 

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So I was randomly pondering yesterday at work. I realized I had forgotten to do something before putting the engine in...

I forgot to use thread sealer on my flywheel bolts! Sonofabitch! That means I have to pull the engine, pull the clutch, and pull the flywheel.

@AbandonedBronco I did remember the shield in between though haha


I use the high strength thread locker. It will seal the threads and keep bolts from loosening and coming out.





Why do you have to do that? are the threads all the way thru to the crankcase?
Yes.
 
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