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Discussion Starter #81
Just talked to my machinist. Everything magged out just fine. He is gonna gauge the bores today to see if we have to go to .060 or scrap the block. Head is ready to be ported and reassembled.

Things are coming along.

Nothing like 3 build threads to keep me on my toes! Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #82
So while I was in the mountains, I got a message from my engine guy. The block is good at 4.060" bores. Time to find my calculations and figure out some pistons.

Basic needs: 351w piston at 4.060 with about a 12cc dish iirc to keep me at 9.7 sCR for my cam. I found a KB piston that has a centered .912 pin, 1.77x compression height, and a step dish right around my desired cc's. The step will help with quenching the fuel charge and the dish will keep my CR right.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
4.060 is the lowest he could go on it?
That's cool though, better than sourcing a new block. :D And it'll make it a 5.1L!

Are you wanting to go with a centered pin? Or is that just what it had? I had a cuss/discuss on centered vs. offset on my pistons with a few others, and there really was no clear winner. (Went with offset on mine). So, curious what your thoughts are.

9.7 will definitely be a hot setup.

What are you thinking for the head?
Have you been keeping up with the one they're working on over on FordSix and FTE?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1539201-very-exciting-news-three-new-cylinder-head-options.html
The bores were at .040, with the last scars cleaned up at .058. So yeah .060 is the smallest.

I saw there was no real difference in pin location, but the centered pin seems like a better idea to me. The only reason some are offset is for stroker clearances from what I've read.

I wanted 10 to 1, but the cam I chose wants no more than 9.75 sCR, determined by the 7.xx dynamic CR. I definitely want this to be a screamer. Not interested in high mpgs.

My head will be fully ported and polished, by my engine guy. He's a racer and builds some crazy race engines so I'm confident in his ability. I've seen the FTE/F6 heads, and was interested in the xflow, until I was told it would need custom everything else. So I'm just rolling with my E5 head with larger valves and Harland sharp rollers.
 

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Discussion Starter #84
I have the means to do the custom work, but not the time. It'd never get done lol.

The offset pin and bearing info seems logical. The original pins were centered right? Seems that they are plenty reliable in that configuration. I won't let the pin location influence my decision either way.
 

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Discussion Starter #85

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Discussion Starter #86 (Edited)
Alright, so I ordered most of my stuff last night.

Set of 8 pistons, linked above. $400
Rings, $60
Harland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers $300 ( @351w500 approved lol!)
Fel-pro gaskets, including the 1024 head gasket and permadry VC and oil pan gaskets. $125
DUI HEI distributor in black $370
DUI Livewires in black $90
Melling standard oil pump and drive shaft $50
ARP head studs, connecting rod bolts, and main cap studs. $200
New harmonic balancer $70

Totaled up to about $1600

Should be here by Friday, with the exception of the pistons, which are drop shipped. I have yet to order the remflex gasket for the manifold and headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
Not sure on the head, but the block has been bored out. Both have been magged and cleaned. Haven't really conversed much more, but we will when I take him this crate of parts. I've been letting him go at his pace, as I'm all too familiar with people calling and bugging about a project that isn't done yet.

Only the set of gaskets (minus head, vc, and oil pan) are on backorder.

I was looking at water pumps, and the only motorcraft that summit listed was for earlier 300s and didn't appear to have the threaded snout I need. I don't want a cardone unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Looky what came today in a big brown truck...

351w pistons, .060 over. 15cc dish, with raised step for quenching. Set of 8 was cheaper than 6 individuals. Getting sealed with Hastings moly rings, and decked to .005"



 

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Discussion Starter #89
Got my box of parts dropped off today.

Shooting for 9.7 CR

Going with 1.90 intake valves and stock exhaust valves. Told him to do his best work on the head porting.

Told him I was going to use Smith bros pushrods and he said that's all that he uses!

Still need to get rocker studs and guide plates, as well as an oil pickup tube.

Block looked good. Bores were all shiney clean. As usual, the shop was spotless clean
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
I was assuming stock was 1.6 or darn close. My thread on fordsix convinced me on the small exhaust valve.

According to FTF the smaller exhaust valve helps with velocity. Most of the exhaust gas escapes right when the valve opens due to pressure. Then the remaining exhaust gasses are slow to escape. The smaller valve would help with scavenging at lower lifts. He said he runs a 1.55 on his 500hp+ 300. Though that's in the xflow. Been trying to listen to him and pmuller and their theories.

Maybe those SI valves would be the way to go. EDIT: those valves are nicely priced and if they fit perfect, that seems the smart move. 1.6 is a tiny jump from 1.55.

Just measured the valves on my spare head and they are 1.55 apx.
 

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Discussion Starter #91
I appreciate all input, and am seriously considering those. If anything, it'll make my machinists job a touch easier.

The intake was always for sure getting bumped up in size. Gotta let this thing breathe!

I wanna scare some ricers as I leave the line, nose almost pulling off the ground and 100+ db of buzzin half dozen in their ear! hehehe :wowcb:
 

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Discussion Starter #92
My machinist was working on a 390 when I showed up lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #93
At work, waiting for customers to come in this morning, and decided to strip down the valve and pushrod covers. Used a product called Skim from Charles Paint Research. It contains all the methyl chloride type good stuffs so you won't find it at your nearest Lowe's or home depot.

Bye bye blue from 1974...



 

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Discussion Starter #94
From what ive heard, there is no better.

I really like running copper head gaskets, but there isn't one for a 300 that's economical. All the gaskets going in this are fel-pro, except the remflex int/exh.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Has anyone had experience hammering the "power by ford" deeper? The P on mine didnt get fully stamped and needs some love.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Today I went and bought some paint while I was in town.



Old Ford blue for the block, black for the accents, and primer.

Any time I buy paint at the auto parts store, the guy gives me hell. He comes into my paint store for stain for his old (50s and back) radios that he fixes up. I can't get this kind of product from my suppliers and he knows that. It's always a comical experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Ordered a set of the SI valves from RPM in the link above.

There are two lengths available in the 1.94/1.6 size. For 86 and earlier heads, you need 4.810" long and for the 87+ EFI you need the 4.750". SI still stocks both lengths. Total, shipped was $185.

When I called RPM, the owner Ron was the one speaking with me and handled the entire transaction. A+ rating so far!
 

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Discussion Starter #98
Little sneak peak of the valve cover... I need to touch up a little from getting sloppy with the brush. A little black to cover my mistakes and it'll be pretty slick looking

I used the spray blue engine paint. Sprayed some on a beer box, and dipped the brush in. Just used a generic artist type brush.

 

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Discussion Starter #99
Looks good!
I can't figure it out though, what is that big black square just to the right of the FORD?
Depression for the fuel line to pass over I think? It looks blacker due to the angle of light hitting it being different. Does yours not have that? Maybe cause mine is from a van?
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Got some more parts ordered last night. ARP rocker studs (for a sbc), adjustable pushrod guide plates, oil pump pickup, 10 micron fuel filter (will go inline directly after the 100 micron filter), and a shiney new radiator.

This is the unit I got: BeCool circle track model. It's a dual row core, triple pass radiator. It's for a Chevy, due to the inlet and outlet being opposite of a SBF. Should do a much better job keeping the six cool than the tiny 1" thick stock radiator with no shroud. It does have the odd 1.5 inlet and 1.75 outlet, so I'll have to figure something out for that.

A good yet inexpensive radiator is hard to find. Most are 500 bucks or so!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-35042
 
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