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1984 Bronco
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings all,

It’s looking like I’ll be opting for a carb from the interwebs, what are your thoughts on the $90-135 2bbl carbs that can be obtained?

Thanks in advance!

G
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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465 Posts
I'll put out my .02 cents on chinese carburetors....i have not purchased one of the 2100 clones out there that i assume you are looking at. They may work great, but i have purchased them for ATV's and Dirt Bikes. They can work great, but you will need to tune them...sometimes extensively. I have had about a 50/50 success with them. I got 2 in a box that i just could not get to run right. Also they generally manufacture these things in a "one size fits all" fashion. If this was going on something i planned on driving everyday i would stick with a remanufactured OEM autolite 2100 specific for my model.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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853 Posts
I would not spend a dime on China junk, I always buy Holley, just because I have had good luck with them & you can get anything you need for them at any auto parts store, good luck doing that on a chinesium... I hear.good things about Summit carbs as well.

Basicly you get what you pay for, and if its cheap, there is a reason.

Support America 🇺🇲 not China! 🏯
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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I was a Holley guy through and through but they are soooo sensitive to changes in weather I only liked them for racing.

For “set it and forget it” reliability I like Qjets in my GM and Autolite on my Ford.

We put a summit carb on my BIL’s Camaro, they are like a cross between an autolite and a Holley , but it worked. It hasn’t driven much but as far as I know it’s still on there. He just goes and cranks it from time to time.


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Just to throw it out there, is this option based in budget?
If not, consider one of the TB aftermarket injection systems. I have a FiTech on my little SBF hotrod and it is great. There is also the Holley Sniper. You don't have to do all the add-ons.
If budget is an issue, I have had great luck in the past with Holley. Parts everywhere. Summit brand is basically Holley copy. The new Eddy AVS Carbs also seem good.

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Ive got one of those chinesium MC2150 2 barrel carbs. Pulled it off a truck in the JY because it was brand new. Its a 1.21 venturing size, so one of the largest.

Quality, visually, seems fine and it mechanically functions smooth.

Ive also got a real MC2150 1.21 venturi but it needs rebuilt. Send me a PM if interested
 

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Yo Spoonerist,
Hopefully, you can rebuild your current carb or go for 2150 or Edelbrock 1406 Performer 600 CFM 4 Barrel Carburetor, Electric Choke
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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465 Posts
Greetings all,

It’s looking like I’ll be opting for a carb from the interwebs, what are your thoughts on the $90-135 2bbl carbs that can be obtained?

Thanks in advance!

G
What's the current carb doing? Does it not run at all, or is it flooding out, whats the deal? You may be able to fix your problems with a 20 dollar bill. Or as mentioned, rebuild the one you have...but im not sure of your level of mechanical ability, but no better way to learn than by doing!

I've gotten a reputation amongst friends and family as kind of the Mr. Fix it, and they ask how i learned how to do all the stuff i do, and i say "Well, you can't break broke" so i at least try to fix things before replacing them. Also having an expensive hobby but being 20 and broke ant the time also helped me learn how to repair rather than replace.
 

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1984 Bronco
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for your input!

I opted for a Chinese 2100 (302) carb. The fit was mostly good a few foibles. Thankfully, because of where I live the environmental stuff can be overlooked.

I was tempted by a Holley, but $ vs $$$ was the issue. Perhaps at some point in the future I’ll opt for a more performance based mod.

I have an appointment with a carb specialist today to finish the tuning and retard the timing.

The problem with the stock carb was that it ran ok with the choke engaged, but wouldn’t idle after it went off. My carb dude said it was the low idle jet that was fouled. I considered rebuilding the old one and may still.

On to wood gathering and other projects.

Cheers,

G
 

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1986 Bronco Eddie Bauer 5.0 bone stock
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I would definitely rebuild the old one, go ahead and get that done before it gets all gummed up. If it only runs on choke that means it's not getting enough fuel, so yeah a stopped up jet or passageway is likely the culprit.

Do it methodically, have a nice big open table set up with places to put screws and parts and keep them separated from each other. I kind of enjoy it, it's like putting a puzzle back together...satisfying.

When i rebuilt my motorcycle or ATV carbs, i take some florists wire (really thin diameter) and snake it up in every passageway. Of course this as AFTER a good long soak in some solvent.
 

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28,225 Posts
Yo,
Forgot to include 2150;
Motorcraft 2150/2100 Rebuild @ http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/motorcraft_2150_carb.pdf

Service Manual @ MOTORCRAFT 2150 by Gary M

TIPS By Bill Vose;
  1. "The Ford carburetors use a power valve that is essentially the same as the Holly ones. Ford uses a cover on the bottom of their carburetors, some applications use an external hose to the intake manifold.
  2. Accelerator pumps are a diaphragm style with an elastomer check valve for the inlet. After replacing it, the tip beyond the small ball needs to be trimmed off, otherwise it will hit the float and cause problems. The discharge check is a ball and there is a weight that is important, because it keeps the fuel from being pulled out of the discharge at full throttle. Many of them have adjustable stroke on the throttle shaft.
  3. The later 2150 carbs have a throttle operated pair of metering rods in the cluster that decrease the amount of air being bled into the main fuel circuits. This allows leaner main jets to be used yet still have a rich enough mixture at higher throttle openings. This yoke for the metering rods is not supposed to be adjusted as it will affect the emissions. If the yoke is raised, it will make the mixture richer from the point the cam on the throttle shaft starts lifting the yoke.
  4. Some of the later 2150s were feedback versions, and used an air bleed controller on the back of the carburetor, they also used an aneroid system for altitude compensation that mounted on the same location for high altitude models.
  5. Choke systems can be hot air, electric or a combination. The fast idle lever on the choke housing shaft is nylon and easy to break, older models had the lever retained by an E clip, later ones the lever is captured between two sides of the choke lever.

Early model 2100 carbs (pre-1964) had a long plunger on the pump diaphragm, and used a inlet check ball accessible through a special screw with a gasket under it. These also had a plastic filler block behind the diaphragm. On these carburetors the cone shaped spring goes small end in. All others go small end out.

When the 2150 was introduced, Ford went back to a plunger, most kits for these contain the diaphragm without the extended "stem" and have a short piece of round bar stock to extend the plunger.

On all 2100/2150 models the larger side center on the diaphragm goes out, small rivet head goes inside.

Other note, this carburetor was in production for a long time with very few changes to the basic design, in my shop we stocked 3 different brands of kits and all of them covered from 1958 (1957 was different enough to have a unique kit) till we sold it in 1978. As long as you know what year it came off, then you can get the settings. A partial number is stamped on the outside of the front left mounting ear. If you can't find a number, pick a vehicle with a similar engine and tell the parts store that, trust me it will work.

For those into performance, the left side of the bowl has a number cast into it, like 1.08, 1.14, or 1.33, these number represent the venturii size in inches, 1.33 was the biggest, and was used on 1970-71 429 engines, may have been on the 410 Mercury engines also."
 

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1984 Bronco
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12 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This site has such knowledge! Thank you.

Got the timing set and carb adjusted. Learned a bunch.

Next project is the gas tank filler bleed system. I’ll search that topic before posting another thread.

Cheers,

G
 

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1984 Bronco
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Welp, another thread wasn’t needed. Threaded a length of baling wire down the vent hose, wiggled it around, and trust my fuel filter. Problem solved.

G
 
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