302 no start issue. trying to fix fast.
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read into it more, i dont have a fuel pressure or compression tester so i cant do either right now. i did the test light to the coil to check for power and its good, i pulled a plug (not wet) and sparked it against my headers. not sure how big of a spark i need but it was there. cant check timing either because i dont have a light. one other thing that has been said is the timing chain may be stretched and skipped a tooth, or teeth of the sprocket broke.
there were a few electrical modules that were mentioned but i dont know where they are.
and ill explain what happened..
i drove home from work, no problems, started and drove like normal. about a 15 min drive. i park and turn it off, go inside and come back out in about 15 mins. then the no start.
there were a few electrical modules that were mentioned but i dont know where they are.
and ill explain what happened..
i drove home from work, no problems, started and drove like normal. about a 15 min drive. i park and turn it off, go inside and come back out in about 15 mins. then the no start.
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yes, yes, and yes.
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Pull codes from the computer for electric/electronic faults and begin diagnosis, go here now www.oldfuelinjection.com was fordfuelinjetion etc. In some cases when it starts up fine, drive it and it either stalls/dies and won't restart immediatley until things cool down, it could be the ignition module is failing, TFI = thick film integated located directly on the distributor or module, remote location in the engine bay BUT either can be tested for FREE at most auto mparts stores but several times for passing grade otherwise replace.
Fuel relays can be a PITA usually located on the drivers side firewall/ fender area near the hood hindge, square looking...back probe, multimeter!
Other fuel manager sensors to check are TPS = throttle position sensor located on the bottom of the throttle body is voltage driven for blade angle air induction, IAC = idle air control sensor located on the right side of the throttle body can be cleaned with TB cleaner but only the bottom valve part or you could fry the solenoid attached. ECT = engine cooling temp sensor located in an "octagonal tee" which is threaded into the lower intake manifold up front, there's also a lower TB cooling tube hose as well.
Any issues with the fuel pump/sender unit in the gas tank.......?
Additional Help:
There is a Ford Racing Performance Parts "idle setting procedure" Instruction Sheet (Techline (800) FORD788) steps 1-9 on How To adjust idle by disconnecting the IAC using the throttle body idle stop screw, drilling out the mounting screw holes on a newer "plug & play" TPS so you can adjust it for voltage setting.
In the past the ideal setting was thought to be .93-.97 volts or just under 1 volt but recently posted information regarding this appears the setting should be between .55v-.75 volts.
Posted by FSB member Jermil01 recently:
Wanted to update this thread based on some TPS adjustment information I got from one of my tuning sites. This goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the TPS closer to .95 range. Thoughts??
Regarding any ECU controlled function (and idling conditions in particular), before any strategy based adjustment can be made by a computer controlled system, it must first run somewhat normally in a default and OL mode.
To do this with a FORD you must first follow a few rules.
You must keep the TPS input above the deadband area and below the "tip in" area. On a FORD this equates to below approximately 0.9V and above 0.45. Anything above 0.90V the ECU thinks the throttle is starting to open. This brings into affect possible dashpot and fuel cut strategies which can turn one grey real fast. Below approx 0.40-0.45V the system suspects an incorrect input and substitutes a default figure.
So first off, the TPS should be set to around 0.55-0.75V. You can also disconnect the IAC then disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, reconnect and the computer should default back to factory settings.
Good Luck ~ :thumbup
Fuel relays can be a PITA usually located on the drivers side firewall/ fender area near the hood hindge, square looking...back probe, multimeter!
Other fuel manager sensors to check are TPS = throttle position sensor located on the bottom of the throttle body is voltage driven for blade angle air induction, IAC = idle air control sensor located on the right side of the throttle body can be cleaned with TB cleaner but only the bottom valve part or you could fry the solenoid attached. ECT = engine cooling temp sensor located in an "octagonal tee" which is threaded into the lower intake manifold up front, there's also a lower TB cooling tube hose as well.
Any issues with the fuel pump/sender unit in the gas tank.......?
Additional Help:
There is a Ford Racing Performance Parts "idle setting procedure" Instruction Sheet (Techline (800) FORD788) steps 1-9 on How To adjust idle by disconnecting the IAC using the throttle body idle stop screw, drilling out the mounting screw holes on a newer "plug & play" TPS so you can adjust it for voltage setting.
In the past the ideal setting was thought to be .93-.97 volts or just under 1 volt but recently posted information regarding this appears the setting should be between .55v-.75 volts.
Posted by FSB member Jermil01 recently:
Wanted to update this thread based on some TPS adjustment information I got from one of my tuning sites. This goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the TPS closer to .95 range. Thoughts??
Regarding any ECU controlled function (and idling conditions in particular), before any strategy based adjustment can be made by a computer controlled system, it must first run somewhat normally in a default and OL mode.
To do this with a FORD you must first follow a few rules.
You must keep the TPS input above the deadband area and below the "tip in" area. On a FORD this equates to below approximately 0.9V and above 0.45. Anything above 0.90V the ECU thinks the throttle is starting to open. This brings into affect possible dashpot and fuel cut strategies which can turn one grey real fast. Below approx 0.40-0.45V the system suspects an incorrect input and substitutes a default figure.
So first off, the TPS should be set to around 0.55-0.75V. You can also disconnect the IAC then disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, reconnect and the computer should default back to factory settings.
Good Luck ~ :thumbup
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awesome info JKossarides, thanks.
little update. it was all the way cooled down and i ran out to try and start it again to narrow things down. started perfectly in less than a second, stumbled a little (another half secondish) and then ran like normal.
ignition module or TFI sounds like where i should start.
little update. it was all the way cooled down and i ran out to try and start it again to narrow things down. started perfectly in less than a second, stumbled a little (another half secondish) and then ran like normal.
ignition module or TFI sounds like where i should start.
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How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway
HowTo Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more
HowTo Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more
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lol... are you asking for help, or just sharing your story?
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Well then don't be afraid to share some detail.
Whatever your pip code was, it's probably the one you want to go after first.
If you give us the actual code number, someone may have specific recommendations.
Whatever your pip code was, it's probably the one you want to go after first.
If you give us the actual code number, someone may have specific recommendations.
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alright here are the codes i got before it started.
118C- coolant temp sensor above max voltage
113C- air charge temp sensor above max voltage
211C- PIP circuit fault
332C- insufficient EGR flow
ive gotten a few of those before, but i think the PIP is the only one that is relevant at the moment.
im probably going to try and put an order in for the ICM tomorrow from the dealership.
118C- coolant temp sensor above max voltage
113C- air charge temp sensor above max voltage
211C- PIP circuit fault
332C- insufficient EGR flow
ive gotten a few of those before, but i think the PIP is the only one that is relevant at the moment.
im probably going to try and put an order in for the ICM tomorrow from the dealership.
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You can do that, but a bad ground is a posibility.
I'd check the battery terminals and cable connections at both ends, and the little grounds to the left and right radiator support and the EEC ground which is near the EEC near the hood hinge on the driver's side.
I'd check the battery terminals and cable connections at both ends, and the little grounds to the left and right radiator support and the EEC ground which is near the EEC near the hood hinge on the driver's side.
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The ECT (engine coolant temperature sensor) if malfunctioning will cause a no start. I had a similar issue with my '88 302. And until I changed out the ECT I couldn't even get her to fire up. If the ECT is failing it will either send the ECM a high temp. reading causing less fuel to be sent to the injectors or a low temp. reading causing a flooding of fuel. My was the second. but yours sounds like it is the first. Check it out and let us know the outcome.
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im glad you brought that up.. intresting thing happened with that. just a few days ago i added a water temp, trans temp, and oil pressure gauge to the rig. water reads how it should, but i unplugged the stock sender. but when i was driving home yesterday the temp gauge was reading how it normally does.. how is that possible when the sending unit is completely out of the truck?
Hmmm - my bet is that you put your aftermarket temp gauge sender in the hole that the ECT used to be in. The sensor that goes to the dash gauge is on the drivers side of the engine, a couple of inches behind the distributor.
The ECT, I believe is on the front of the engine. The ECT has a connector that has two wires in it, the instrument panel temperature sensor has a single wire.
The ECT, I believe is on the front of the engine. The ECT has a connector that has two wires in it, the instrument panel temperature sensor has a single wire.
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then i must have put the temp sensor in where the ECT goes. the thing i undid was directly above the thermostat housing and had 2 wires going into it. i guess the where the ECT goes had coolant running through it? and would cause my symptoms? ill put it back together a little later how it was. anyone have a picture of where the coolant temp sensor that goes to the dash is?
Here it is:
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195929&highlight=temperature+sender+5.0
Just remember that this is a tapered (pipe) thread. The tighter you crank it, the bigger it gets. Don't overtorque it or you'll crack the intake manifold. (someone on this forum has done that.)
Good Luck
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=195929&highlight=temperature+sender+5.0
Just remember that this is a tapered (pipe) thread. The tighter you crank it, the bigger it gets. Don't overtorque it or you'll crack the intake manifold. (someone on this forum has done that.)
Good Luck
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nice info thats for the heads up. cw you get yours fixed????/
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