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I am new to the Bronco Scene I Just bought this one and it's a 92 full size with a 302. The oil pan is leaking like crazy. I am going to change it this weekend. what I was Curious about is How do I do it Will I have to unbolt the Motor Mounts? Can I Get away with cutting the Gasket? Just any pointers you could give a new Bronco owner! Thanks alot
Al
 

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The tranny mount can stay on there. You do have to unbolt the engine mounts though and lift the engine as high as you can. If you want to actually remove the pan and not just drop it down on the crossmember you'll have to unbolt the oil pump and drop it down inside the pan too. Then when you go back to reinstall it place the oil pump in the pan and wiggle the pan in place. Bolt the pump back up and then bolt the pan on. Its kind of a bitch.
 

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use the nice felpro sure dry or whatever its called. Its blue with metal rings around the bolt holes. Trust me, you dont want to do it again.

When I did mine, I had to remove the pan completely, you wont really have to, but I had to unbolt the exhuast, cut the y pipe, raise the motor, then wiggle it out.

You wont have to go that far, but use the little pegs that come with the gasket, they help out a TON.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cool Deal Thanks for the info One more Question will I Just manuver the pan gasket underneath the Pick up?? Or is there another way... sorry for all the questions I am just preparing myself Cause I only have the shop with lift avaiable for afour hours I want to make sure I Have all my Ducks in a row!
Later
Al
 

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Yeah if you're not going to actually remove the pan (just set it on the crossmember) you can slide the gasket under the pick-up. Its kind of a difficult and clumsy way to do it but having the car on a lift will definitely make it easier. Most important thing is be sure that pan rail and block survace is clean when you get the pan down. If not, you're going to be leaking again.
 

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here you go, I did this a year ago and did a write up on it. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets, so just ignore that part and the rest should make for a good guide.
 

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my 351 pisses oil but do u have to remove so much stuff? can u just unbolt the oil pan and drop it enough to slip the gasket in?
 

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Lick my balls
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my 351 pisses oil but do u have to remove so much stuff? can u just unbolt the oil pan and drop it enough to slip the gasket in?
I removed all that stuff because I was doing other things at the same time. So the answer to your question is no. But you do have to raise the motor and remove the fan shroud. Just use my write up as a guide. Ignore page one, for the most part and you should be into what you want to know.
 

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since it has been leaking i have had almost no oil pressure and after i turn it off it makes a werid sucking sound
 

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since it has been leaking i have had almost no oil pressure and after i turn it off it makes a werid sucking sound
Do you have the factory gage or a mechanical one? You may want to invest in a mechanical gage to be sure if the oil pump is good or not, but you know what, I would just replace the oil pump anyways while you are there anyways. It is such a pain to just replace the pan gasket, you may as well replace the oil pump too. You will agree with me on that when you get there and you may as well invest a few more dollars and buy the high volume oil pump.
 

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the stock mechnaical one
For about a month i have been loosing oil pressure and now the pan leaks and I have no oil pressure
 

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Replace the oil pump. If you are going to go to all the trouble in taking the oil pan off, replace the pump.The rod that is in the oil pump will be a pain in the backend to get in. After trying for 2 days to get it in, hands too big, I had a buddy come by and took the dist. cap off, dist. out and put the rod in from the top. Took him every bit of 15 minutes to do. Just mark it so your timing will not be off. That was a year ago and it has been fine.
 

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it only takes a few hours. 4 tops just do it. unbolt the upper intake first for clearance. leave the tranny mount alone.
 

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Lick my balls
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Replace the oil pump. If you are going to go to all the trouble in taking the oil pan off, replace the pump.The rod that is in the oil pump will be a pain in the backend to get in. After trying for 2 days to get it in, hands too big, I had a buddy come by and took the dist. cap off, dist. out and put the rod in from the top. Took him every bit of 15 minutes to do. Just mark it so your timing will not be off. That was a year ago and it has been fine.
That is a good idea, except when you go to remove your distributor at a later date and because your buddy neglected to think about the retaining clip that needs to be there to stop that rod from being pulled out of the pump and then drop back into the oil pan, when the dizzy is removed, you now have to drop the oil pan again to retrieve the rod.

The only way that would work, is if one person was on top and one at the bottom to slide that retainer on while the guy on top is lowering the rod.
 

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That is a good idea, except when you go to remove your distributor at a later date and because your buddy neglected to think about the retaining clip that needs to be there to stop that rod from being pulled out of the pump and then drop back into the oil pan, when the dizzy is removed, you now have to drop the oil pan again to retrieve the rod.

The only way that would work, is if one person was on top and one at the bottom to slide that retainer on while the guy on top is lowering the rod.

What are you talking about?

if you are talking about the oil pump driveshaft, the ones you buy now do now have a retainer ring. they have a flange that keep it in place.
 

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What are you talking about?

if you are talking about the oil pump driveshaft, the ones you buy now do now have a retainer ring. they have a flange that keep it in place.
Mine came with nothing. I had to remove the retainer from the other shaft.

If you are saying the shaft was somehow made with a shoulder of some sort to prevent it from coming out of the oil pump when the dizzy is removed then you can only oinstal it from the bottom.
I can't imagine the shaft being made with a shoulder of some sort. It would raise the cost dramatically.

You have a pic of this flange?

I just gave myself a pat on the back. That was a drunk post and I just reread it and I think it still makes sense...unless I'm still a little drunk.:toothless
 

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Mine came with nothing. I had to remove the retainer from the other shaft.

If you are saying the shaft was somehow made with a shoulder of some sort to prevent it from coming out of the oil pump when the dizzy is removed then you can only oinstal it from the bottom.
I can't imagine the shaft being made with a shoulder of some sort. It would raise the cost dramatically.

You have a pic of this flange?

I just gave myself a pat on the back. That was a drunk post and I just reread it and I think it still makes sense...unless I'm still a little drunk.:toothless
that is how mine installed (from the bottom) here is a pic off of the sutozone website. the long end goes in through the bottom then the lip prevents it from going up too far and make a good tight seat. the biggest pita is trying to get the ****er in the hole it is supposed to go in once you drop it. that is why i tell people to secure it with bailing wire before removing pump

 
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