[omp]

I have my 4:56 gears on order, and now I am looking to freshen up the motor a bit. My co-workers gave me their .02 cents, in that I should pull the motor completely and just drop one in from Autozone for 1600$.

I have seen how ever on Summits site a kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K514-350-370/ which appeals to me a bit more then an autozone motor. Even if I just get the 170 TFS heads and match a cam per Fireguys Thread http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6867 would my bottom end be good for another 25K miles.

Ok, so the truck as 185K miles, it runs great, rear main leaks of course but nothing else. My newbie question is what route is best to take, if I can just get away with upgrading the top end per summits kit, or piece together my own head/cam combo or drop in a rebuilt motor.

I also have a friend who has a friend who builds motors for stock cars, mostly chevy's and will get me a price quote for a short block which I still have to add a head/cam to?

 

[Caddylackn]

I'd keep away from the top end type of high performance kits. You don't have a light mustang and don't want your power band in the 2200-6500 rpm range. Yes they will make 350 horsepower but do you want to rev your truck to 6000 rpm to get it? Your stock bottom end may not take it. You will need a pretty open exhaust to hit the 350 hp mark. You might need a higher ratio than 4.56 if you have big tires to make this usable on the highway. You should want good torque starting at 1000 rpm and peak horsepower below 5,000 rpm unless you are racing. GT 40 heads are cheap and are good enough unless you need power above 5,500 rpm.

If you want more power to accelerate a heavy vehicle you need more torque, look at the 347 stroker kits, or drop in a 351w, or better yet a 351w stroker. Since your motor is basically fine, except for rear main, how about pull the motor, get a used GT 40 intake and used GT 40 heads for a swap, new gasket set, a new 4x4 grind cam, rebuilt bigger injectors, and while the motor is out do the rear main, put in new oil pump, timing set, and six-liter tune (under a $1000 total). This should put more usable torque across the entire rpm range and a noticeable driving difference. Your mpg won't suffer if you can keep your foot out of it.

Then flog that motor for awhile guilt free and save up for a rebuilt short block. If your motor is not smoking now, it should probably last another 25K with good maintenance as long as you don't over rev it. When that motor fails replace it with a new high performance short block and reuse your GT 40 top end. $1400 will buy a pretty good performance short block.

 

[omp]

Thank you, I was thinking of GT40 heads and intake, but the cam selection is a bit harder. I found http://www.compperformancegroupstor...en=CTGY&Store_Code=CC&Category_Code=FTCAMSX4X only for the 5.8L and nothing for the 5.0 really. I have read postings here for GT40 heads and it is on my list as they are cheaper.

I have 33" and will be sticking with the 4:56 instead of 4:10's as if I do want to go with a bigger tire the gearing will be there..

 

[Jasonhughes2009]

personally, i've never taken a vehicle over 3500 rpm, if im not getting the power i want in that range, its not good enough, which pretty much rules out every crapoline engine out there :goodfinge

 

[omp]

Can I rebuild a block from a 96 explorer and swap it in. Complete engine at local yard is 300$ which I think is a better deal then taking just parts from it. My racer friend will do the work on block and heads. I just provide the cash and any parts I want worked.

 

[GetBent4x4]

I heard fireguy50 say the explorer short block was the same as our 302. I don't have any personal experience with one though.

Run the stock 5.0 truck intake, it's a good intake. The 5.8 truck intake is the restrictive one.

 

[thin blue line]

explorer 5.0 liter is the way to go upper intake is good only bad thing is the factory exhaust.

 

[omp]

well the 5.0 Liter long block or just the heads/intake from the explorer?

 

[PARAFROG]

I have my 4:56 gears on order, and now I am looking to freshen up the motor a bit. My co-workers gave me their .02 cents, in that I should pull the motor completely and just drop one in from Autozone for 1600$.

I have seen how ever on Summits site a kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K514-350-370/ which appeals to me a bit more then an autozone motor. Even if I just get the 170 TFS heads and match a cam per Fireguys Thread http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6867 would my bottom end be good for another 25K miles.

Ok, so the truck as 185K miles, it runs great, rear main leaks of course but nothing else. My newbie question is what route is best to take, if I can just get away with upgrading the top end per summits kit, or piece together my own head/cam combo or drop in a rebuilt motor.

I also have a friend who has a friend who builds motors for stock cars, mostly chevy's and will get me a price quote for a short block which I still have to add a head/cam to?

not for nothin but, i had a friend drop in a checkers motor several years ago and it blew up after heavy use right after the warranty terminated. turns out it was remanufactured in mexico, and god only knows what kind of machine work and parts it had in it. i don't know about autozone, but i would think they may have the same type of rebuilds since they are price competitors in the same generic market.

also on high mileage engines, i like to put a quart of the "valvoline high mileage oil" when i change the oil. it has seal reconditioners, and as long as you introduce it slowly, it won't send hardened rubber into shock.


frog.

 

[omp]

Thanks frog but I have steered away from autozone or any store bought motor. They buy their engines from sources like surefire engines out of AZ. Have heard from other forums they are hit or miss. My co workers friend built motors for stock cars and will build one for me I am just waiting for time and a tax return if I'm that lucky. I have very little compression in my 302 first she rolls in my driveway which is not steep. I know it's worn previous owner just gassed and drove it little maint done.

 

[PARAFROG]

yeah, the motors come from arizona, no doubt by way of mexico. looks like a good way to disguise the original build location. more skilled jobs gone overseas and the result is another unreliable product. phooey!

good luck.
frog.

 

[omp]

I have a set of rebuilt GT40P heads and intake manifold on order, have read a lot of posts on the installs as well. Fireguy has a comp cam that he recommended 35-255-5 is anyone else running it, what are you impressions. I'm not looking for that 300hp mark, just as mentioned earlier some more low/mid range with 4:56 that I have going in with it to help any way I can. Block will be bored 30 over as well with some new parts and upgrades to keep up with a bump in compression up top. I took the advice to not go with a rebuilt long blockl from a parts store, but that also means I"m going spend more $$, so bear with me as I'm searching archives but still looking for more recent feedbacks.

FYI if you are in Denver and looking for GT40P heads, guy on craigs list is selling rebuilt ones for 300$ OBO http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2724668665.html he called me back but I already have mine on order. I have read a lot of threads on a lot of sites and but thanks to this site again, I have decided I'll do the P and use the ford motorsport header.

 

[PARAFROG]

I have a set of rebuilt GT40P heads and intake manifold on order, have read a lot of posts on the installs as well. Fireguy has a comp cam that he recommended 35-255-5 is anyone else running it, what are you impressions. I'm not looking for that 300hp mark, just as mentioned earlier some more low/mid range with 4:56 that I have going in with it to help any way I can. Block will be bored 30 over as well with some new parts and upgrades to keep up with a bump in compression up top. I took the advice to not go with a rebuilt long blockl from a parts store, but that also means I"m going spend more $$, so bear with me as I'm searching archives but still looking for more recent feedbacks.

FYI if you are in Denver and looking for GT40P heads, guy on craigs list is selling rebuilt ones for 300$ OBO http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/2724668665.html he called me back but I already have mine on order. I have read a lot of threads on a lot of sites and but thanks to this site again, I have decided I'll do the P and use the ford motorsport header.

here's a site showing head flow numbers for stock, and reworked heads.

http://www.carbdford.com/tech/flowdata.htm

you want the flow optimum at the lift of the cam (usually around .400 flow for a non high rpm motor--and the stock gt40p heads do die after .400), and if i remember right you multiply the cam lift by the ratio of the rocker arms to find that (usually 1.5). you have to match the cam lift with the head flow. if you get a high lift cam and put on heads that die after .400, you will have no power at all. it is best to call a cam company, tell them the heads and motor you are running, and the vehicle and application, and they will match a cam to them. they've got software with all the specs and know what they are talking about. this is very good advice. most people just throw a fat cam in a motor without realizing that the stock one was designed with the heads in mind.

those stock gt heads are far from being hi-po heads. by the look of the flow numbers, they need ported and bigger valves to bring out their potential. power increase is no crap shoot--it's science. you've got to make everything flow better, and then maybe get a computer tune.

don't be in a hurry to part with your money. you've got a lot to learn. buy a book on ford engines, sorry i can't recommend one.

frog.

 

[thin blue line]

any updates on what ur using. gt40 or gt40p, whats the difference????????

 

[omp]

Thanks frog I will call up comp cams and see if they can match up the gt40p's and intake. I did not buy the heads listed on CL it was just something I found after I purchased mine. I looked up costs of me going to yard to pull heads and they would be 90$ out the door with core charge plus 275 to freshen them up I paid 350 online for a set already done.

"Thin" I went with the P heads after I found out I can get headers for them read here http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66998 . I will match the ports on it along with making sure the intake is clean also.

 

[Sock Puppet]

Where did you order the rebuilt heads and manifold?

 

[omp]

Guy on flea bay had manifold along with heads from another seller. I contacted them both and they where very open in answering questions. I know flea bay can be a risk, but I still believe there are honest folk left out there. I picked up a manifold for 150 complete with TB, Fuel rail, 19lb injectors for 150$ with a lot of negotiating mainly as he did not budge on his price but I can't get it for that much at local pick pull. I am paying 150$ for shipping on both, total 450$ heads 200$ manifold. Now a short block rebuild I was quoted around 600$ plus anything extra I want done

 

[PARAFROG]

Thanks frog I will call up comp cams and see if they can match up the gt40p's and intake. I did not buy the heads listed on CL it was just something I found after I purchased mine. I looked up costs of me going to yard to pull heads and they would be 90$ out the door with core charge plus 275 to freshen them up I paid 350 online for a set already done.

"Thin" I went with the P heads after I found out I can get headers for them read here http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=66998 . I will match the ports on it along with making sure the intake is clean also.

i would say that paying for freshened gt heads doesn't justify the small increase in flow, and the time effort and money to replace the stock ones. unless the ones on the vehicle are thrashed and need refreshed themselves.

find a good deal on ported with bigger valves--that is if there is one.

keep looking and learning. that flow chart has numbers, and numbers can be computed--opinions can't.

let me know what they say at comp cams.



frog.

 

[omp]

I have low compression on a few cylinders two of them at 52 psi the others ranging from 60-79psi. If I leave it in gear on my driveway she rolls back. I have not done a leakdown as it is coming out anyway. I will have a talk with my builder to see what he recommends I do with the heads that are coming in if he can possibly open them up a bit. I am not going for something wild but durability as she lasted 180k and I'd like another 150k before I open her up again. I went over that link lots of good info. I'll try to call comp Friday as I'm working over holiday break. OT pays for this motor

 

[Caddylackn]

Guy on flea bay had manifold along with heads from another seller. I contacted them both and they where very open in answering questions. I know flea bay can be a risk, but I still believe there are honest folk left out there. I picked up a manifold for 150 complete with TB, Fuel rail, 19lb injectors for 150$ with a lot of negotiating mainly as he did not budge on his price but I can't get it for that much at local pick pull. I am paying 150$ for shipping on both, total 450$ heads 200$ manifold. Now a short block rebuild I was quoted around 600$ plus anything extra I want done

I am jealous. You are way ahead of me, I am heading this way in the future, time and money permitting. It seems like there are decent deals on Ebay for heads. If they have good feedback and a 100 transactions, I would not worry.

I found a nice local gt40 reworked set with minor port work and bigger valves for $700 but seems like too much unless it came with a gt 40 intake set too. I am not taking mine to the limits where port work is a concern. I am cheap and only want to spend $700 for heads, intake, cam, and headers combined. I am patient, we'll see what I can come up with. My goal is to make the best Bronco I can for around $2500 total from mostly junkyard parts. The $2500 includes buying the Bronco. So far I have only spent $1200 thanks to this forum.

Any idea why your compression is bad, is it only the valves? Because you got that covered with the new heads. Before junking your block run some compressed air through the spark plug hole at TDC and see where it comes out. A rubber stopper over a blow gun nozzle makes a good seal.