332 EGR code & green vac. line

Did you try to manually open the valve after you removed it? To see if the rod would actually move.

Blindly throwing part$ at a problem rarely fixes it. Always start with diagnosis. If the computer can't see the EGR opening, it's either not opening (NOT a fault in the valve since it's designed to keep itself closed), or the sensor the computer uses to detect it isn't working right (NOT a fault in the valve since the sensor is separate), or the mechanism that causes the EGR to open isn't working (NOT a fault in the valve since it doesn't open itself). In any case, 332 is NOT caused by a faulty EGR.

Failed vacuum is usually the cause, and you're right to check the green line. Be sure to inspect the vacuum reservoir VERY carefully - they crack along the rear seams.

Steve83 said:

Blindly throwing part$ at a problem rarely fixes it. Always start with diagnosis. If the computer can't see the EGR opening, it's either not opening (NOT a fault in the valve since it's designed to keep itself closed), or the sensor the computer uses to detect it isn't working right (NOT a fault in the valve since the sensor is separate), or the mechanism that causes the EGR to open isn't working (NOT a fault in the valve since it doesn't open itself). In any case, 332 is NOT caused by a faulty EGR.

Failed vacuum is usually the cause, and you're right to check the green line. Be sure to inspect the vacuum reservoir VERY carefully - they crack along the rear seams.

Click to expand...

I got good voltage going to the EGR and good resistance. Does this point to vacuum even more?

The rod DOES move easily to answer a previous question

I just went through this same problem (code 332). It endep up being a nice hole in my coffee can underneath. Felt really stupid because i did check it and it looked fine on top and the sides but underneath :doh0715: nice hole?
Steve do you have a link to chapter 10A in the service CD about the EGR system. :shrug Would that even help?

No, I don't know how to rip data off the CDs since it's stored in a proprietary file format, nor do I know how to upload big data/text files, or create web pages. I have enough hobbies already! :toothless

I will check out the cannister... what did you do with the hole? Did you get another one? Did you fix it? Thanks!

You could probably try and fix it but i dont suggest that seeing as how i dont know how good that would work. I got a replacement canister from the dealer for $40.00 But i wouldnt replace it until you were sure thats what the problem is. You can unbolt it and check 360, actually i would suggest just that. At first i looked at mine and there was only alittle surface rust on it so i though it was good, then after i checked everything else and that was good :whiteflag so i started all over again and guess what :doh0715: :cry it was the underneath of the same canister i thought was good that had a nice rectangular rust hole in it. Look at it damn close and if its good move to something else.

What kind of symptoms do you have besides pulling the code. i am nothing near as good as steve but i have the service cd and i maybe can help you narrow this down. If you are unsure send me a PM and we can "try" to work this i guess.

Thanks a lot Gakr2000! I went and looked under the wheelwell, I see the nuts for the canister. I'm gonna take it out and inspect it tomorrow.

What it does is; It starts up perfectly, idles nice for a minute tops, idles down, stumbles, coughs and if I don't catch it, it'll stall.

If I keep it running by driving it, I have to intermittantly floor it to keep it running (or pump it hard if I'm in traffic to avoid doing double the speed limit). This is only for the first 3-4 minutes or so. The CHECK ENGINE light comes on. It seems to run fine after that although gas mileage SUCKS!

This past winter (very snowy), pumping the gas while driving had me skating all over the place YIKES.

Steve83 said:

Tomorrow, disconnect the green line (either end will do) BEFORE cranking it, and then see how the truck runs. After you get it running for a few minutes, disconnect the red line to the FPR & inspect it for liquid gasoline. If the truck still stumbles at idle, disconnect both vacuum lines from the reservoir & see if the idle improves.



If none of that works, check the EVP with a multimeter, a vacuum pump, and the Haynes manual.

Click to expand...

1) Disconnected green line. Started up, it idled, sputtered and I had to catch it before it stalled just like normal.

2) Restarted, let it run, disconnected red line from FPR. It idled up quite a bit higher and I found no liquid gasoline.

3) This time, it ran without throwing a code

4) Disconnected both cannister lines with NO CHANGE in idle quality (which is fine by the way... after it stalls and I start it again or clear it up with the gas pedal ie; pumping it to keep it running) it then idles fine. It's just a minute or less after I start it, it will sputter and die or otherwise throw a 332. From then on it seems ok :banghead

(if the EVP is synonomous with EGR, it had good voltage but I did not use a vacuum pump because I don't have one... I will get one if it has been narrowed down to this.

EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) is on top of the EGR - they're not the same.

You've eliminated the entire EGR system, including its vacuum valves, as the source of the stalling. Since the EEC only tries to open the EGR at hi-rev after full warmup, you shouldn't have gotten that code.

Check the TPS, ECT, ACT(IAT), & IAC.

ok from what i gathered here is code 332 does not have to deal with the EGR system itself but rather in the vacuum line/system. and to test it i would go about it in this manner?

1994XEP said:

1) Disconnected green line. Started up, it idled, sputtered and I had to catch it before it stalled just like normal.

2) Restarted, let it run, disconnected red line from FPR. It idled up quite a bit higher and I found no liquid gasoline.

3) This time, it ran without throwing a code

4) Disconnected both cannister lines with NO CHANGE in idle quality (which is fine by the way... after it stalls and I start it again or clear it up with the gas pedal ie; pumping it to keep it running) it then idles fine. It's just a minute or less after I start it, it will sputter and die or otherwise throw a 332. From then on it seems ok :banghead

(if the EVP is synonomous with EGR, it had good voltage but I did not use a vacuum pump because I don't have one... I will get one if it has been narrowed down to this.

Click to expand...

reason i ask is because i want to re-assure so i can go about this one day this week...

Steve83 said:

EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) is on top of the EGR - they're not the same.

You've eliminated the entire EGR system, including its vacuum valves, as the source of the stalling. Since the EEC only tries to open the EGR at hi-rev after full warmup, you shouldn't have gotten that code.

Check the TPS, ECT, ACT(IAT), & IAC.

Click to expand...

reason i ask if because after my header install i am getting code 332 and it is bugging the hell outta me seeing that CEL :duh

If you realize that the EEC doesn't actually know what the EGR itself is doing, and that it doesn't control the EGR directly anyway, the code definitions are easier to understand.

332 : Insufficient EGR flow detected

So since the EEC can't actually detect flow, no matter what it is: what does that definition really mean? Since the only feedback our trucks have from the EGR system to the EEC are 1) the EVP signal & 2) the EVR resistance, those are the only things 332 (or any EGR-related code) can refer to. Find out if & why either of them is incorrect & you'll have found the problem.

yo td,
Good job!
DTC 332 EGRs Valve Insufficient EGR Flow, & Possible Causes; "...EGR valve sticking closed, EGR valve diaphragm leaks, EVR solenoid sticking closed, Loss of vacuum to or from EVR, Open in EVR VPWR or driver circuits...";

Kind of an old thread I suppose, but I thought i'd throw this in to help anyone in the future. 332 is 9/10 times cuase by a leaking vac canister in my experience. Unless of course you decide to run your green line against the exhuast, lol. Anyways, remove your cansiter and put it in a sink of water that covers it up to but not over the nipples. Hold it there (95% submerged) for atleast a minute. Then turn it over and watch for water to come out of one of the nipples. Be sure not to turn it completly upside down as this may cuase water off the side to run down to the nipple, giving it the illusion of water coming out. My canister only had minor surface rust when I got my 332, but when I did this leaktest it certainly had been compromised somewhere under the mounting "tab". ALWAYS check the can first, unless you can blatanly see a bad vac line.

argh... i just broke my green line... i assume that tape is not an option? this brittle plastic-ish material kind of sucks... can i replace it with some kind of silicone hose of some sort?

and yes i got the 332... but i got it after i had to run my truck for about 1/2 mile to my house after my alternator died... just coincidence?

Ok. Replaced te green line and the EGR valve position sensor (which seemed like it was ok... ) because it was only like $25.

Weird thing is that the truck runs fine.

Any ideas?