Did you try to manually open the valve after you removed it? To see if the rod would actually move.
I got good voltage going to the EGR and good resistance. Does this point to vacuum even more?Steve83 said:Blindly throwing part$ at a problem rarely fixes it. Always start with diagnosis. If the computer can't see the EGR opening, it's either not opening (NOT a fault in the valve since it's designed to keep itself closed), or the sensor the computer uses to detect it isn't working right (NOT a fault in the valve since the sensor is separate), or the mechanism that causes the EGR to open isn't working (NOT a fault in the valve since it doesn't open itself). In any case, 332 is NOT caused by a faulty EGR.
Failed vacuum is usually the cause, and you're right to check the green line. Be sure to inspect the vacuum reservoir VERY carefully - they crack along the rear seams.
1) Disconnected green line. Started up, it idled, sputtered and I had to catch it before it stalled just like normal.Steve83 said:Tomorrow, disconnect the green line (either end will do) BEFORE cranking it, and then see how the truck runs. After you get it running for a few minutes, disconnect the red line to the FPR & inspect it for liquid gasoline. If the truck still stumbles at idle, disconnect both vacuum lines from the reservoir & see if the idle improves.
If none of that works, check the EVP with a multimeter, a vacuum pump, and the Haynes manual.
reason i ask is because i want to re-assure so i can go about this one day this week...1994XEP said:1) Disconnected green line. Started up, it idled, sputtered and I had to catch it before it stalled just like normal.
2) Restarted, let it run, disconnected red line from FPR. It idled up quite a bit higher and I found no liquid gasoline.
3) This time, it ran without throwing a code
4) Disconnected both cannister lines with NO CHANGE in idle quality (which is fine by the way... after it stalls and I start it again or clear it up with the gas pedal ie; pumping it to keep it running) it then idles fine. It's just a minute or less after I start it, it will sputter and die or otherwise throw a 332. From then on it seems ok :banghead
(if the EVP is synonomous with EGR, it had good voltage but I did not use a vacuum pump because I don't have one... I will get one if it has been narrowed down to this.
reason i ask if because after my header install i am getting code 332 and it is bugging the hell outta me seeing that CEL :duhSteve83 said:EGR Valve Position sensor (EVP) is on top of the EGR - they're not the same.
You've eliminated the entire EGR system, including its vacuum valves, as the source of the stalling. Since the EEC only tries to open the EGR at hi-rev after full warmup, you shouldn't have gotten that code.
Check the TPS, ECT, ACT(IAT), & IAC.