[biglog78]

Hi guys -Could you guys please clarify this for me ????? Just replacing my leaking gaskets-All 8 hexbolts came out with no problem (no breakage) I want to put new ones back in with the new gaskets but my choice of new hardware seems very limited and NOW very confusing!!!-See Pics -this is my choice only from DORMAN????-Could one of you kind and knowledgeable experts please tell me -. Why do we need the studs?? and why the different size bolts????--and finally WHICH ones go to WHICH holes-I have shown bolt holes 1thru 8 from the front. Which ones get the studs and which ones get the bolts??. Thanks guys in advance-I'm ready for whats coming to me!!

Lastly -as in my situation-is it wrong to use 8 of the same size bolt???? -Is there another hardware option????---

HERE IS THE KIT FROM DORMAN>>>>>>WHY IS THERE 9 PIECES in the kit????🥵
and a pic of my passngr manifold

Whats up with the 9 pcs?????

 

[Gondal]

The studs are for bolt on heat Shields shaped like cups for the spark plug boots
And for the heat riser to the air cleaner
most of the time those parts are missing as they are not needed and in the way
Unless of course it’s a smog truck
Now the You Have the right thread and bolt Size you can simply match up what you need and buy bolts from the hardware store
You will need one of the studded bolts because the oil dip stick bolt to it

 

[biglog78]

Hi Gondal-thanks for the quick reply-I kinda assumed it had something to do with the OEM setup from the factory-My heat stovepipe to the air cleaner is long gone -but I still have the plug shields which were held on by the bolts.-I have one stud yes that holds holds dipstick in place -thats not a problem -but what is that single bolt for??-or they are just giving you another option instead of using a stud???---If I go with straight replacement bolts 3/8x 1 3/8 or so --do they have to be heat treated /Brass or just regular type 8 bolts with lock and flat washers??? Thanks again for totally clearing this up for me and others possibly-biglog78 in Canada**

 

[biglog78]

If using the plug shields-is it better or wiser to use the studs??-does this keep the shield eyelets away from the manifold heat so they will last longer??

 

[Johnnyreb1]

I myself fine it easier to put manifolds on easier. If you use studs WITHOUT WASHERS AND TAPS. . When you set the manifol over the studs Then put the washer and taps on. I use BRASS taps. I also use two taps on each stud to keep them better secured in place. Then IF you ever have to take them off for any reason. They are alot easier to get off and you don,t have to worry about any bolts breaking off in the heads. Plus it takes the guess work out of getting the bolts lined up.

 

[biglog78]

I myself fine it easier to put manifolds on easier. If you use studs WITHOUT WASHERS AND TAPS. . When you set the manifol over the studs Then put the washer and taps on. I use BRASS taps. I also use two taps on each stud to keep them better secured in place. Then IF you ever have to take them off for any reason. They are alot easier to get off and you don,t have to worry about any bolts breaking off in the heads. Plus it takes the guess work out of getting the bolts lined up.

Thanks for this Johnny

 

[biglog78]

I ended up just buying all new 3/8-16 bolts w brass washers-found my 7/16 studs for pipe ends at a nearby muffler shop in his junkpile-who just gave them to me-saying "it must be a Ford-don't see these anymore"

 

[BikerPepe`]

Dad's 400 from his '78 FSB.
Previously mentioned heat shield...

Also secures dip-stick tube...

Worth noting. Dorman repro manifolds do not allow for spark plug heat shields to be re-installed. For whatever reason, the top ridge isn't set back the same as the OEM so the heat shields won't sit across ports to mount properly. I wish I'd have noticed that before I blasted a repainted Dad's.