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Man of endless projects
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Discussion Starter #1
alriught well my 80s 351w was running great before i did some work on it, jsut had low oil pressure. the carb wasnt perfectly set but it did start easy as pie idled very go. now that i did the timnig chain, oil pump and bearings and its all together, ive had trouble getting it to start. it originally would jsut sputter a few times but not start. after adjsuting the timing enugh, i did manage to get it running and i had it run for a good 20 mins with it sounding smooth and good no misses. timed it to 10* BTC however when i would put the vacuum advance on, it would start sputtering so i left it off for now. had to shut it off for abit but it started right back up and still idled good. tried to put it into gear and the motor stalled. put it bakc into park but when cranking it, the motor woulnt start again. jsut spttering. i eventually cranked it too much and the starter got soo hot it seized. the starter is under warrenty so ill get a new one tomarrow if i cant free it up. till then, is there anythnig i can check that would make the motor hard to start but run fine when going? jsut for info, the dizzy is an HEI.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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19,191 Posts
lets start with the basics.......

how is your fuel supply? do you have enough pressure and volume? is the pump losing it's prime after shutdown?

are you dead nuts sure that your timing is correct? i mean without a doubt 100% sure? does it sound like it's cranking with too much effort? is your spark strong?
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,491 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
its mechanicly fuel pump and i jsut got it a few moths ago. well till i can get the engine started again, i cant check timing but it was at 10* BTC, i checked it a few times and watched it for like 5 mins. i cant find any vacuum leaks anywhere and there arnt many lines anwyas (tranny, brakebooster, timing advance, and maby something else i cant remeber) and while i had the timing advance off it was plugged. the plugs were barly used and looked fine whe pulled. its cranknig harder than normal cause the new bearings were pretty tight but still within spec and i put in heavy weight oil 50w-20 with a highflow oil pump and im gonna change that tomarrow to somehting more normal. spark looked pretty god when i checked it 2 days ago. the timnig chain took me a few tries to get itbut after awhile im 99% sure its set right and i had 2 friends confirm it with me
 

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I did all for the Nookie
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7,270 Posts
Wait what about the bearings? Did you replace the main bearings?
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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19,191 Posts

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Man of endless projects
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9,491 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
yes. i pulled the engine so i can do the main and rod bearings, oil pump, and front pump seal on hte tranny. did timnig chain while it was out. i did stock sized bearings and the clearenses were tight but within specs. the kinda tight clearences + highflow oilpump+ 50w-20 oil = engine harder to crank which is why my starter pretty much melted after cranknig it for a long time to get it started.
 

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Premium Member
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23,549 Posts
Are you sure the cam to crank timing is correct?

Did your balancer spin thus making you think your timing is at 10 but it could be 50.

Put in some 10w30 and see how it cranks. I bet it is not going to crank any easier.
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,491 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
im not worried obut it being easier to crank, i figuered it will eventually wear in the new bearings and will over time become easier as long as it cranks now. i didnt think the balancer could do that, ill check but i htink its fine. well when i did the chain, we had trouble getting the crank and cam perfectly in position and every time we tried, it would always look off. however i think we did manage to get it good and we used something long and flat to align the marks to make sure.
 

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Man of endless projects
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Discussion Starter #9
alright well good news is i got a free new starter. and it started really easilly first time ans it maintains a good oil pressure

bad news:
tranny is pouring fluid out the bellhouseing even after changing front pump seal. is there something else it can be?
my 300$ copper\brass radiator has a bad leak soemwhere in the fins.
oilpan gasket is leaking. the new oil pump i got i htink is for front sump pan cause my rear sump was hitting it, i tried anyways and it failed so im gonna try RTVin the hell outta it nex ttime i guess
power steering pump resivore got new seals but it still leaks out its fluid quickly. gonna have to see if something is causing it not to seal.
when i had the engine running smoothly, i cant put it into gear without it dieing. 4low with engine reved moves about 2 feet before it dies. transfercase in N and itll go into gear fine
engine is definitly at 10* with timing vacuum out. putting the vacuum back it makes the motor sputter and die.
when the engine runs, the will randomly have a miss and a weird kinda klunk at the valve covers. it was too hot to take off to look.

im starting to wonder about the timnig chain being off now. is there a way to check it without taking the cover off?
is there a reason that the tranny is pourring fluid out the bellhousing even after changing the front pump seal?
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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what transmission does this truck have? c6 or AOD?

when you dropped the engine in, did the engine/trans go together smoothly, or did you have to pull one into the other with a bellhousing bolt?
 

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Man of endless projects
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Discussion Starter #11
its a C6 and yes it went in smoothly and i know for a fact that the torque converter is all the way seated cause i had that problem already

EDIT: after some research, ive been readin that the tranny pump bolts can back off or something about a gasket and O-ring going bad. im gona pick up a ford tranny manual
 

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Man of endless projects
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Discussion Starter #12
uhhggg... i too kthe valve covers off and found a piece of old PVC valve was getting caught up in the lifters and causing the misfire. eays fix, ran the engine for 30 min just to make sur ethe engine keep good oil pressure and doesnt overheat. the engine was running greta but dam it sure hates the vacuum timing advance, soon as i put it in it sputters and dies soon after. howeveres heres some worse news, when i went to start it back up, apparently it deicded to throw a rod or something cause now #8 is dead. im gonna repull the motor tomarrow and find out the damage and get th trannys pump replaced
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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i think you should leave engine work to the professionals. :goodfinge
 

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Sounds to me like you are connecting the vacuum advance tube from the distributor to the manifold vacuum port instead of the timed vacuum port. Manifold vacuum port will advance the timing at idle causing the stumble and erratic idle you mentioned. You need to try connecting it to the carburetor timed port location.

Cams can also have pre-advanced timing ground in to them and a timing wheel is pretty much mandatory for correct timing install.

Good luck.
 

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Man of endless projects
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Discussion Starter #15
welcome to FSB, i see its ur 1st post and i ge thte honor of it on my thread.

the cam is stock, i never removed it. when i put the new timnig chain on, it had 3 settings. stock timnig, 2* before and 2* after. i wasnt sure which would matter so i choose stock and i tried my best to align the timnig marks but there is always a chance of it being off cause the marks were barley noticable, even with the engine being pulled.

ya im not very knolegeable about carbs (on cars and trucks anyways) but the timnig advance is hooked up to 1 of the 2 spots on the carb for it. im not sure which to use and which has a difference but on a previous thread, someone told me which would be better but i dont remeber which or why.
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,491 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
well it dont matter anymore... pulled the engine and its chaos. the oilpan not only got ripped a new anus, it also got ripped a wizards sleave sized vagina on the other side. block has a piece cracked off where the oil pans bolt holes are. crankshaft is gouged to hell. piston is in like 10 pieces. the nuts for the rod cap were still itght but the cap is broken so idk what caused this.
heres a few pics but they dont jsutify and they suck cause it was night and takes from a phone


inside the bottom ofthe engine, bad pic but tis a mess


the big tear on the oilpan. its 4" tall and 2" wide


small tear on the other side ofoilpan but its bigger than the pic makes it lookq


bent rod


chipped block. about 2" of the right of the missing piece is barley held on still


the broken cap.the nuts were still tight on it tho so it must of broke then was bent back
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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:wtf
 

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Premium Member
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What parts are u planning on using?
 

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Man of endless projects
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9,491 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
timing chain, oilpumpm waterpump, thermostat and any anythiung else thats pretty much brand new. plus all the other stuff like alt, carb, dizzy, and all that good stuff that i taken off
 
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