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Napa machine shop has a 351W block and crank been bored 30 over and crank has been machined as well. Acid dipped and new high dollar freeze plugs he wants 450$ for block and crank, it is a 69 351W block first year they made the windsor, i want a good core block to rebuild.Cancelled the 351M because of all the differences between the two, i can get a complete long block from Jasper for 2680.00 with a little bigger cam want to go Carb change do away with injection and computer crap and go to the backyard mechanic motor. Have a 96 FSB E.B with 351W again any problems ya'll see with this and suggestions on what to get. 75% of the motor heads here in carolina say go Carbed and the rest say stay fuel injected. Don't know what to do i rather go carbed if i could THANKS for any help CHUCKD43:goodfinge :rebelflag
 

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I switched over to carb on my 86 simply because that is what I knew how to fine tune, I didnt want to mess with computers wire harnesses and all that. I am not knockin it but I just wanted to go with what I knew. Plus i used 4 motors in that truck all of different displacements, so that made it easy to switch them. Also you will save a ton of money, UNLESS you already have the 351, in that case I would stay with that. In the end it is all up to you...have fun, Jeff
 

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CHUCKD43 said:
Napa machine shop has a 351W block and crank been bored 30 over and crank has been machined as well. Acid dipped and new high dollar freeze plugs he wants 450$ for block and crank, it is a 69 351W block first year they made the windsor, i want a good core block to rebuild.Cancelled the 351M because of all the differences between the two, i can get a complete long block from Jasper for 2680.00 with a little bigger cam want to go Carb change do away with injection and computer crap and go to the backyard mechanic motor. Have a 96 FSB E.B with 351W again any problems ya'll see with this and suggestions on what to get. 75% of the motor heads here in carolina say go Carbed and the rest say stay fuel injected. Don't know what to do i rather go carbed if i could THANKS for any help CHUCKD43:goodfinge :rebelflag
the 69 blocks are often sought after for 351Ws.... they have a higher nickel content leading to a stronger block.... I have one in my Cobra with 10.7:1, its a beast and reliable... just be careful when choosing piston/head combos.... the 69 block has a different deck height than newer years causing higher compression than the manufacturers will tell you.. double/triple check, my motor was supposed to be 10:1 :)
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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Don't the older blocks like the one you're talking about have different deck heights? If so a different deck height would mean the current intake setup wouldn't work. Since you have a 96 you already have MAF so you could build a 393 stroker out of your 351.
 

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I am in the same boat as you. I want to carb and stroke a 351W in my 92 Bronco. Here are some problems I am running into. The trans I have is the E4OD. Its a great tranny, but it is computer controlled. You have to run the EEC-IV, or use a stand alone controller(I found one for $425.00). I am also swapping the 8.8 for a 9inch rear end, so I have to figure out how to run the speedometer.

I am with you ChuckD43, I like the carb because it is what I am use too. It is just harder to swap motors on these newer vehicles because everything is interconnected. Not impossible, just more to do.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Doesn't N.C. have emissions?

I dont think an OBD-II vehichle that was converted to a carb would pass, no matter what you do.

Also the resale value would go to $hit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
351W

Gacknar said:
Doesn't N.C. have emissions?

I dont think an OBD-II vehichle that was converted to a carb would pass, no matter what you do.

Also the resale value would go to $hit.
N.C. goes from county to county on the emissions crap, my county doesn't have emissions testing, the other counties are only checking back 10yrs. on emissions. my sale value already wen't to $hit with the TTB lift than doing the SAS swap and lift. CHUCKD43:goodfinge :rebelflag
 

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The Anti Yam!
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I will never understand peoples obsesion with removing a perfictly operational EFI system. It would be like removing the mother board from my computer and installing an abucus, it just seems like a step backwards.

But hey, watever floats your boat.
 

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Its all about personal preference. Some people just like carbs better than EFI and will swear up and down that you get better performance with a carb. I personally prefer carbs for a number of reasons, but thats because I grew up around old cars and haven't had any good experiences with fuel injected engines.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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bluebronco1966 said:
I personally prefer carbs for a number of reasons, but thats because I grew up around old cars and haven't had any good experiences with fuel injected engines.
Just like the people who I work with who would rather use an abacus than a computer becouse thats what they grew up with.

Learn, EFI is so easy.
Hell it will tell you what is wrong with it.
 

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I personally am also much much more experienced with carbed engines (old muscle cars specifically). However, I'm learning the efi stuff.

I'd never think of going carb and ditching the efi unless it was a drag vehicle then maybe. Different application entirely though.

EFI stroker useing your likely F4TE roller cam capable block for the build. F4TE block being more then adequate unless you plan on surpassing approx. 550 to 650 HP depending on tune and other variables (this according to those who have been there and done that).

EFI roller camed stroker gets my vote. Heck with OBDII tuning would be a snap from what I've been told by those in the know.
 

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One problem with getting rid of the computer that I can see is transmission. The E4OD uses computer signals, if you lose the computer you'll need to change trannies and go with a manual, C6, or I believe an AOD will also work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
351

Gacknar said:
I will never understand peoples obsesion with removing a perfictly operational EFI system. It would be like removing the mother board from my computer and installing an abucus, it just seems like a step backwards.

But hey, watever floats your boat.
Water floats my boat. If money is not a problem than i would stay with EFI to change jets in Carb for a bigger cam is about 30$ to change jets for injectors is about350$, you can make some serious horsepower out of EFI but it takes some money to do that.:goodfinge :rebelflag
 

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Discussion Starter #16
351

Oh Yea another thing, I HATE the check engine light i open the hood and my engine is still there so why does it keep telling me to check engine? just joking for all the dumbassesss, I do hate that check engine light i gonna rip all that computer crap out just for that reason alone i am sick of that light i was gonna get my buddy to shoot my dash with his 45 to finish that light off once and for allll. CHUCKD43:goodfinge :rebelflag
 

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The Anti Yam!
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408Bronco said:
I'd never think of going carb and ditching the efi unless it was a drag vehicle then maybe. Different application entirely though.
Oh heck yea. If your building a trailered drag vehichle there is no real reson not to carbed.

87EBBronco said:
One problem with getting rid of the computer that I can see is transmission. The E4OD uses computer signals, if you lose the computer you'll need to change trannies and go with a manual, C6, or I believe an AOD will also work.
Baumann makes a stand alone E4OD controler. http://www.becontrols.com/products/electronicscat.htm
It's $425.00

CHUCKD43 said:
Oh Yea another thing, I HATE the check engine light
You know if you fix the problem the light goes away.
 

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Gacknar said:
You know if you fix the problem the light goes away.
Now now Mr. Obvious.... :thumbup
 

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Gacknar said:
You know if you fix the problem the light goes away.
:duh :banghead :rofl: Ain't it the truth.

Additionally, the check engine light has been around alot longer than computers on various vehicles. A handful of the older muscle that didn't have factory gauges for everything would often still have a check engine light.

And LOL, it doesn't mean for you to just check to see if the engine is still there (I know you know better), but coming on to indicate a certain level of a problem.

You can also, always pull the little bulb out and shazam, no more CEL.

EFI is more expensive to work with if you need the better intake and need the bigger injectors, etc., but very worth it from many standpoints in the end.

Hell, with all the old muscle I've owned I always went through many occasions where I can still remember wishing I could afford the then very very expensive aftermarket stand alone efi setups. I was good to great with various carbs, however..........there is a threshhold where efi can give back a lot of streetability to a certain level of engine tune. Likewise, then if ya keep going more and more radical with the tune and parts ya throw at it, theres the threshold again where its back to carb (big one at that point) and hell..........you probably long since have the timing locked and have start retard for the timing. But thats a long story.

EFI rocks for the street thats all there is to it. If theres any way to afford it, its the way to stay IMO.

I've got a buddy with an 87' Bronco that is dyeing for me to help him find the parts to convert to efi. He hates the carb on an off road vehicle, for all the obvious reasons.
 

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Holley Truck Avenger.

My deal is, I like to change things on my truck every weekend. And I don't have $3000 for a custom computer setup that can keep up with that. I'm switching from the 302 EFI to a 351 with the Truck avenger carb, and a performer manifold. If....something goes wrong, its a real short list of tools....This EFI crap gives me a check engine light every weekend for something....usually I can't even figure out what. $$$$$$$$$$ is the best reason for going carb. Long run, short run, however you look at it. I can't imagine I'll ever miss it. If next month I feel like changing to my Torker II intake and totally changing the performance of my beast, it'll take 2 hours and less than a hundred bucks.
 
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