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Discussion Starter #1
Well thanks to steves encouragement...i am going to start gathering parts over the next couple months to rebuild my motor. I need a few things answered though.

First where is a good place to buy 351W EFI parts?

Second, I am planning on basically rebuilding back to stock, might go with some better heads and cam..maybe even get a 6a box...but thats about it. What are the things I will need to buy for a fresh rebuild?

Engine does have a new oil pump, and a few other misc parts like IAC. I am thinking I will just tear down the block and send it to a machine shop to clean it up. No sense in buying a new one if the one i have checks out good.

opinions?
 

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SrATEX said:
Well thanks to steves encouragement...i am going to start gathering parts over the next couple months to rebuild my motor. I need a few things answered though.

First where is a good place to buy 351W EFI parts?

Second, I am planning on basically rebuilding back to stock, might go with some better heads and cam..maybe even get a 6a box...but thats about it. What are the things I will need to buy for a fresh rebuild?

Engine does have a new oil pump, and a few other misc parts like IAC. I am thinking I will just tear down the block and send it to a machine shop to clean it up. No sense in buying a new one if the one i have checks out good.

opinions?
Get a good rebuild kit from Summit/Jegs. First you need to take the block to the machine shop, and find out how much they need to bore it, and how much they need to turn the crank (if at all). Then you can order a rebuild kit to match. Make sure you don't get a cam that will upset your computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
JahWarrior said:
Get a good rebuild kit from Summit/Jegs. First you need to take the block to the machine shop, and find out how much they need to bore it, and how much they need to turn the crank (if at all). Then you can order a rebuild kit to match. Make sure you don't get a cam that will upset your computer.

thanks for the info Jah..im gonna look into that.

can you explain a bit more indepth on what the machine shop does...and you mean buy a rebuild kit that matches to what they bore it too?
 

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SrATEX said:
thanks for the info Jah..im gonna look into that.

can you explain a bit more indepth on what the machine shop does...and you mean buy a rebuild kit that matches to what they bore it too?
The machine shop will hot tank / clean the parts (block,heads), then you should have the block magnafluxed to check for cracks.

Then they will determine how much the cylinders need to be bored out, and will bore and hone the cylinders. This will determine your need for oversized pistons, and what size rings you will need in your rebuild kit. Also, if the crank needs to be turned down, you will need the main bearings to be the proper size to make up for the machining. You should have your rods reconditioned if you're not replacing them. They should install new cam bearings in the block for you. Best thing to do is get in contact with the machine shop you'll be working with, go in and talk to them about what you want to do and what you're after, and they should have good advice for you on how to proceed. Most will assemble the short block for you for an additional fee as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
JahWarrior said:
The machine shop will hot tank / clean the parts (block,heads), then you should have the block magnafluxed to check for cracks.

Then they will determine how much the cylinders need to be bored out, and will bore and hone the cylinders. This will determine your need for oversized pistons, and what size rings you will need in your rebuild kit. Also, if the crank needs to be turned down, you will need the main bearings to be the proper size to make up for the machining. You should have your rods reconditioned if you're not replacing them. They should install new cam bearings in the block for you. Best thing to do is get in contact with the machine shop you'll be working with, go in and talk to them about what you want to do and what you're after, and they should have good advice for you on how to proceed. Most will assemble the short block for you for an additional fee as well.
thanks again bro, this is the kind of replies i like. I will start looking into machine shops when i get home from drill weekend...i still got a beer waiting for you one day.:beer
 

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Discussion Starter #7
you think i should just get a new one? for something everyone says ill will never be able to forget...seems everyone else forgot. tired, worn out, broke, and waterlogged.
 

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The Anti Yam!
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SrATEX said:
for something everyone says ill will never be able to forget...seems everyone else forgot. tired, worn out, broke, and waterlogged.
I remember it going in the drink but that does'nt mean it needs a rebuild.

Have you done a compression check?
Is it knocking?
Does it have good oil pressure?
Is there blowby?

What is broke about it?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Gacknar said:
I remember it going in the drink but that does'nt mean it needs a rebuild.

Have you done a compression check?
Is it knocking?
Does it have good oil pressure?
Is there blowby?

What is broke about it?

no i have not done a compression check. dont know how or what to do it with

it clicks...i dont know how much that is of the engine or the slight exhaust leak from the warped header

has fair oil pressure now that it has a new pump in it.

dont even know what blowby is:duh

I dont know whats broke on it. Thats the main thing...150k mile engine that doesnt like to run. I have had that crazy irratic idle problem for over a year now and still havent figured it out. On any kind of drive further then an hour without given a break it usually ends up on the side of the road. Been running rich and even the mechanic cant figure out why. I seafoamed it and i think there is so much carbon build up in it that I just killed the motor. and other little things. Basically i can keep nickle and diming it to death replacing this part here, and that part there. Or just give it a fresh start with a rebuild that i feel is much needed for it to be right again. I think I have put enough new parts replacing this or that, that i could have rebuilt the motor by now
 

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The Anti Yam!
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SrATEX said:
I dont know whats broke on it. Thats the main thing...150k mile engine that doesnt like to run. I have had that crazy irratic idle problem for over a year now and still havent figured it out. On any kind of drive further then an hour without given a break it usually ends up on the side of the road. Been running rich and even the mechanic cant figure out why
Rebulding the engine is not going to fix any of that.

Any mechanic who cant figure out a rich condition is not much of a mechanic.

I just dont want to see you waste your money on a rebuild that you dont need yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Fireguy50 said:
I don't think you should touch it, if you don't know what these terms are.

no some of these terms i dont...that is why im gathering info, and that is why in another thread i am asking for help. that way i can learn. Im never going to learn if I never try. And all i said is i dont know what blowby is..other then i dont know how to compression check.


Jeremy then what do you propose I do? keep letting it break. buy a new part put it on, then let it break again. then buy another part? If a rebuild will not correct the problem that this engine has then what will? Take the irradic idle. I tried everything FSB has suggested for me to try to do. Hell even replaced the IAC. Checked codes, everytime. (I bought a code a reader)...

and the fact still stands. every adjustment has been made to try and lean it out a bit and it still runs rich...now what?

If rebuilding the motor, will not repair the truck then i am at loss for ideas of what to do. for over a year now i have been trying to figure these problems out...and at the end of it I am right back where i started.
 

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you might want to think about just rebuilding the heads. if it's not getting the proper valving then it isn't going to run right. when the heads are pulled off you can check the cylinder walls with a micrometer or your finger. if there is a huge rounded out portion at the top of the cylinder THEN you need the block check for cracks, just cause, and bored. if you access to a micrometer check the widest part of the cylinder, where detonation occurs, to the narrowest down at the bottom.

also a good time to check the top of your pistons for rust, corrosion, any irregularities between them all. anyone think of anything else?
 

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The Anti Yam!
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SrATEX said:
Jeremy then what do you propose I do? keep letting it break. buy a new part put it on, then let it break again. then buy another part?
What internal engine part have you already broke?



SrATEX said:
Take the irradic idle. I tried everything FSB has suggested for me to try to do. Hell even replaced the IAC. Checked codes, everytime. (I bought a code a reader)...?
Did you get any codes.

SrATEX said:
and the fact still stands. every adjustment has been made to try and lean it out a bit and it still runs rich...now what?
Have you checked the fuel pressure?

SrATEX said:
If rebuilding the motor, will not repair the truck then i am at loss for ideas of what to do. for over a year now i have been trying to figure these problems out...and at the end of it I am right back where i started.
The engine is not the problem, it's all the stuf feading it. Thats where the problem is.
 

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crank trigger
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Fireguy50 said:
I don't think you should touch it, if you don't know what these terms are.
If this is not your daily driver, then get into it, great way to learn.
Gack is right, most of the conditions you described will probably not change by rebuilding the motor. There is something up with your induction.
 

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sounds like an engine managment problem, not an engine mechanical problem.

Typically this check list will either A) solve the problem, or B) point to the problem:
Trouble codes
Fuel pressure
Base timing
Vacuum leaks (including EGR exhaust tubing)
Plug wire routing
Spark plug gap
Compression check / leak-down test
 

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Fireguy50 said:
sounds like an engine managment problem, not an engine mechanical problem.

Typically this check list will either A) solve the problem, or B) point to the problem:
Trouble codes
Fuel pressure
Base timing
Vacuum leaks (including EGR exhaust tubing)
Plug wire routing
Spark plug gap
Compression check / leak-down test
+1
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Gacknar said:
What internal engine part have you already broke?
couldnt tell you, i havent seen the inside of the motor...like i said oil pump had gone out..it was replaced...could have all kinds of stuff with it going in the drink...


Did you get any codes.
only time ive ever gotten codes was the EGR stuff. it has been replaced. when i get home from Montgomery, ill pull them again

Have you checked the fuel pressure?
i personally havent checked it. again i dont have the tools to check it but both fuel pumps are new

The engine is not the problem, it's all the stuf feading it. Thats where the problem is.
ok what is feeding the engine to give it an irratic idle? what is feeding the engine to make it die while driving down the road. elabortation- RPMs rev up, then drop real low, only way to keep them up is hold the gas, while holding gas engine cuts in and out. kinda like a lawnmower when you let off the handle. Usually happens after about 1 hour of highway speeds, then being forced into stop and go traffic. (i.e. Birmingham rush hour, while driving from montgomery to huntsville)
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Fireguy50 said:
sounds like an engine managment problem, not an engine mechanical problem.

Typically this check list will either A) solve the problem, or B) point to the problem:
Trouble codes
Fuel pressure
Base timing
Vacuum leaks (including EGR exhaust tubing)
Plug wire routing
Spark plug gap
Compression check / leak-down test
thank you Ryan. I will dig through the Haynes manual and all about testing these out.



this is not my DD. it is a dedicated trail rig
 
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