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I have a question: Why a bronze gear for the roller cam. You said your distributor comes with a steel gear. Isn't that what is compatible with a roller cam? I don't think bronze will last very long. I know they sell them but have always wondered why, if you are going to have to buy a new gear, why not just buy the steel one. Am I missing something??

Otherwise your build looks very good and I look forward to hearing more.

later
tim
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
393 Build

nice what injectors are you running? i have mine going pretty well right now with the accel dfi system and 32lb injectors
I am going with 24# injectors for now, after I get the engine up and running and tuned properly I may jump to 30.

Nick
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Is this the stock timing cover off your '96 bronco? If not...where did it come from?

The reason i ask is that it has the mounting holes for a VR crank position sensor....I've been trying to find one for my 351w without much luck.

Oh, and REALLY nice engine build...ive been following it


That is the OEM original stock timing cover all I did was sand blast and paint.

Tks Nick
 

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8,518 Posts
You decide on a programmer yet? I'm deciding which one to buy, but on the fence now, I had planned on the twEECer but now in light of the info in this thread I'm a bit confused. Though from the screen shots I've seen the twEECer looks super easy to program - don't know about the others.
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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6,949 Posts
thanks nsa. I found the timing cover at work today for right over $80 with my discount, so i probably grab it.

Did your engine have a VR sensor mounted on that timing cover and a trigger wheel on the balancer?
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
thanks nsa. I found the timing cover at work today for right over $80 with my discount, so i probably grab it.

Did your engine have a VR sensor mounted on that timing cover and a trigger wheel on the balancer?
I believe your referring to the misfire sensor and yes my balancer comes with a toner ring.

Nick
 

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Premium Member
1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
393 Build

You decide on a programmer yet? I'm deciding which one to buy, but on the fence now, I had planned on the twEECer but now in light of the info in this thread I'm a bit confused. Though from the screen shots I've seen the twEECer looks super easy to program - don't know about the others.
I am going with the quarterhorse I actually have it already and have already downloaded the stock bin with the flash and burn stuff from moates. There is still so much to learn tho, hope I am up for the challange.

Nick
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I have a question: Why a bronze gear for the roller cam. You said your distributor comes with a steel gear. Isn't that what is compatible with a roller cam? I don't think bronze will last very long. I know they sell them but have always wondered why, if you are going to have to buy a new gear, why not just buy the steel one. Am I missing something??

Otherwise your build looks very good and I look forward to hearing more.

later
tim
Listed below is an article I picked up on after my machine shop recommended a bronze gear with my hardened steel camshaft. After reading this and a few other things out thier I made the decision to go with the bronze gear.

Properly Matching Your Camshaft and Distributor Gear

Matching camshaft and distributor gears is one of the most critical, yet often overlooked steps in engine assembly. The proper distributor gear for your camshaft differs by both the material and the kind of lifter for which your camshaft was designed. Using the wrong material can lead to premature gear wear, possible camshaft wear and ultimately engine failure.

First off, no steel distributor gear is compatible with both flat tappet and hydraulic roller cams. This is because hydraulic rollers can be made from two possible materials and either of those materials requires a different gear than the flat tappet cam. Regardless, a steel gear is not compatible with a cast iron flat tappet cam.

Distributor Gear Materials:

1. Cast Iron

2. Composite (offers great life, conforms well to the mating cam gear, and is compatible with ANY camshaft gear material)

3. Melonized or hardened steel (material that OEMs use with factory roller cams; many aftermarket distributor manufacturers use these as the default gears for their distributors)

4. Bronze (conforms well to the mating camshaft gear and will not damage the camshaft gear, but it is a self sacrificing gear intended to be used in race applications only and should be replaced about once a year)

If you have a cast iron hydraulic or solid flat tappet cam, your distributor gear options are:

1. Cast iron distributor gear

2. Composite distributor gear

If you have an austempered ductile iron hydraulic or solid roller cam, your two options are:

1. Melonized or hardened steel distributor gear

2. Composite distributor gear

If you have a billet steel hydraulic or solid roller cam, your two options are:

1. Bronze distributor gear

2. Composite distributor gear

COMP Cams recommends the composite gear because it is compatible with all camshaft gears – flat tappet, austempered cast iron cores, and billet cores. If the steel gear is not hardened, it is not compatible with either of the roller cam types.

Note: If you have an austempered core hydraulic roller cam and a .500 shaft distributor with a steel gear, verify with the manufacturer of the distributor that the steel gear they use is a melonized or hardened steel material and it will work fine.

I hope this helps....

Nick
 

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Thanks for the response. I learned some things.

tim
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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6,949 Posts
I believe your referring to the misfire sensor and yes my balancer comes with a toner ring.

Nick
yep....not exactly what i thought it was, but thanks for the info, it helps alot with my project.

I want to hear more about this thing when you get to tuning it....I'm gonna have to start the learning curve sometime soon as well
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
393 Build



As you can see from the photo above my rotating assembly came with a brand new Pro Comp balancer that was outfitted for my rotating assembly. My question is can I use it since it does not have the OEM toner ring on it for the misfire sensor on my 1996 ford bronco? Will thier be any issues with it if I go ahead and use it or should I just stick to the OEM balancer?
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 ·
393 Build

Well I have been on vacation all week and my son Robert brought the grandchildren down to visit. Robert and I worked on the Chassis all week and we are just about finished with it except for a few minor details.

Before


After



We spent all day Monday setting the torque converter properly because the first time I mated the engine and transmission together the engine would not spin at the harmonic balancer. I did a few searches and wallah I learned I had not installed the converter correctly the first time. Listen for the three clicks of engagement and you will have it set right. I have posted some more pic's of the entire frame as well as some close-ups of the build. We spent the rest of the week installing everything and we feel confident that the chassis is now ready to accept the body. Speaking of which it is going to paint next week and I should have everything back by the end of the month. I will also post pic's of the body work in the future.


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my bko ate my money
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2,319 Posts
is that i cub cadet in the background? i have the very same mower, but it needs a starter, and for $150 im not getting one, ill just keep using the drill

nice build
 

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I've got a larger version of the Cub and so many things have broken/fallen off that thing that it's not even funny anymore.

Engine's lookin' clean :thumbup
 

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Premium Member
1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 ·
393 Build

Yes that is my Cub Cadet in the background and quite frankly thats another project I need to get into this winter, I need to completely disassemble that machine and rebuild the engine. It has cruise control and cuts pretty well when it was running properly. :thumbup
 

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my bko ate my money
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2,319 Posts
Yes that is my Cub Cadet in the background and quite frankly thats another project I need to get into this winter, I need to completely disassemble that machine and rebuild the engine. It has cruise control and cuts pretty well when it was running properly. :thumbup
i know, even tho mine has to be started with a drill its the best damn mower ive ever had



end hijack
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 ·

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my bko ate my money
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2,319 Posts
you could put a in-line HP pump on the frame rail

otherwise the only other upgrade for the pump is the 255 thats in the write-ups
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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17,738 Posts
50 US gallons = 189.270589 liters

Assuming a BSFC of 0.5 and running at 90% capacity:

190 L/hr pump = 302 lb/hr X 0.90 = 271 lb/hr, safe for up to 540 naturally aspirated flywheel hp.

I think you're more than safe.
 

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1996 Ford Bronco
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82 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
393 Build

After looking at my options for an upgraded fuel pump I have decided to go ahead and follow Bossind's Tech write up for the 255lph fuel pump upgrade. At first I didn’t want to try and fab up a bracket to adapt to the new fuel pump so I started looking online to see if I could just purchase a setup but the best I could find was a Spectra assembly which would’ve been alright but I already had a 255lps pump so I decided I would just go ahead and see what I could fab up for the bracket. I actually had 2 stock fuel pump assemblies one that was trashed and the one that came out of my Bronco. Well as I got to looking at the trashed one listed below an idea started forming. The new pump was much bigger than the OEM pump and no matter how hard I tried to use the OEM assembly it would just not fit.





I started thinking that the fuel float bracket was basically the same size Boss used when he fabed up his bracket from a piece of metal. I broke the welds loose from the tubes and flattened the bracket out. I than stuck it in a vice and started rounding up the sides until it held the new pump nice and snug. I simply than attached a ring clamp around the pump and bracket. I used one of the existing holes and drilled another slotted hole to secure the new bracket to the pump and basically that was it! I put a small slot in the second hole so I could angle the pump into the correct position in the tank.



This is what I ended up with to go into the tank, I still feel uneasy when I look at the electrical connections just clipped on to the pump, but I remind myself this is how it was from the factory.



I would like to thank Bossind for posting his Tech write, next weekend I will do the valvebody upgrade from Paul's clutchbox :goodfinge
 
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