3G install on an 81

16887 Views 23 Replies 8 Participants Last post by Sixlitre, Oct 21, 2006

81Bronk36

Discussion Starter · Nov 7, 2004

6

Well so far ive got the wiring almost done. Havent gotten the Alt yet, hopefully Monday or Tuesday it will be here.

Sometimes my starter will engage better then others. I dont think my battery gets charged fully when im at idle, so if I have been idleing with my headlights on like I was the night before... then this is what my battery is left with as far as volts are concerned.

Before

After

There is now a 2 gauge wire going to the positive in addition to the 1 gauge to the starter and the little wire that goes to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. That is it.

Most years should have the same green and red wire. It goes from 12V S to the voltage regulator. Now it goes from 12V S to the alt to "turn it on"

This is as far as I got. I need to get a fuze holder to mount to the fender and actually recieve the alt so I can put on the pulley.

Since there was still some daylight and I found the wires I had run to hook these up when I was cleaning and conduiting the other stuff I decided to finally install these. Ive only had them for 2 years now :slap

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Sixlitre

· #2 · Nov 7, 2004

81Bronk36 said:
I need to get a fuze holder to mount to the fender and actually recieve the alt so I can put on the pulley.

Looking good so far 81Bronk36

You can order this Mega Fuse holder from any UAP/Napa store;

It's available in their "Little Fuse co." catalog or as a genuine NAPA number. Cost me less than $18 CDN (American pocket change) for the 175 amp Mega fuse you see coming from the 130 amp 3G alt stud.

There's link to a cleaner picture of it here;

http://www.pa-performance.com/[email protected],[email protected],[email protected],[email protected],[email protected]

The 60 amp Maxi fuse that goes from one side of the studs(in my picture) straight into the amps is also a Little Fuse Co. unit. It was $6 CDN, if memory serves me.

Fireguy also sells pretty neat fuse holders too.

Hope this helps ya out. Man you're going to love that 3G, I did !!!

Sixlitre

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81Bronk36

Discussion Starter · #3 · Nov 7, 2004

Ill just pick one up on Monday, well similiar anyway. I went to every store in town that might have them and none did so I checked another car audio store and found one for 25 bucks total... not too bad, at least its not 45 like the other one I found.

81Bronk36

Discussion Starter · #4 · Nov 9, 2004

3

A little more progress today. I was working in the dark as it took longer to buy these parts then install them.

I bought and soldered a new end on my short battery-solenoid cable since I cut it in half. 44 cents, some plumbing solder and a map gas torch was all it took.

bought this today at the Stereo Shop 25 bucks for the holder and the 150A fuze. Not bad for some bling too, since it was my only option.

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Sixlitre

· #5 · Nov 9, 2004

Nice heat shrink job

Sixlitre

81Bronk36

Discussion Starter · #6 · Nov 9, 2004

Sixlitre said:
Nice heat shrink job

Sixlitre

I wish... thats the rubber boot that comes from Stinger. It is pretty tight.

Once I finally get an inner fender in on that side I wont have anything to worry about.

Sixlitre

· #7 · Nov 9, 2004

81Bronk36 said:
I wish... thats the rubber boot that comes from Stinger. It is pretty tight.

Once I finally get an inner fender in on that side I wont have anything to worry about.

AS long as you lube all connections with dielectic grease corrosion shouldn't be a problem. Will stock inner fenders fit your modified fender anymore ?

Sixlitre

81Bronk36

Discussion Starter · #8 · Nov 9, 2004

Sixlitre said:
AS long as you lube all connections with dielectic grease corrosion shouldn't be a problem. Will stock inner fenders fit your modified fender anymore ?

Sixlitre

I have to go back and re lube most of them before final tightening.

No not even close, Im going to use a 19x 48" long strip of 20ga like I did the drivers side, and fill in whatever is necessary. I did the dash/heater swap to accomidate the oversized fender wells and havent gone back and done that side yet as I dont own the welder.

81Bronk36

Discussion Starter · #9 · Nov 12, 2004

9

Test fitting... its fits perfectly.

bottom view... have to run a nut and bolt instead of the normal bolt into the alt.

And Sixlitre was'nt joking... thats not gonna work

This either.. the treads are 5/8 but the base is about 11/16

This one works good 3/4" by 18 gauge machine bushing from Menards.

Just enough to clear

handy thought I had to tighten up the pully. The guy at the parts store that removed the serp belt one used an impact and held it with a pair of gloves.

got this wiring harness from a 95 Taurus for 3 bucks. I had to crimp on that terminal on the yellow wire.

Pretty much done... slapped on the belt, taped up that splice job and fired it up. A healthy 15 volts. Started turning on stuff. To my dismay the only problem I have is when I turn on my heater. I must have a bad ground because it drops about .8 volts. The electric fan will drop it about .3-.4 volts but then go back up to within .1 of what it was. My headlights are no longer yellow. In fact my eyes still hurt from looking at them.

Total cost was about 90 dollars.
48 for the alt
3 wiring harness
1.50 for washers
15 for wiring and big terminals
25 for the fuze and fuze holder.

Between this and the saginaw powersteering both are #1 in dollar per performance upgrades I have done to my truck.

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drkhrs925

· #10 · Jul 21, 2006

quick note on the shim for double pully

I have a small lathe in the garage and was able very quickly to shave down the back of the pulley in about 3 passes. works great and the nut has more to grab hold of. I highly recomend it as it keeps the belt alignment where it was. Unless I get swamped by local members I am willing to help out those that can't find someone to do this. just a way of giving back for all the info I gained from this site.

Sixlitre

· #11 · Jul 22, 2006

drkhrs925 said:
I have a small lathe in the garage and was able very quickly to shave down the back of the pulley in about 3 passes. works great and the nut has more to grab hold of. I highly recomend it as it keeps the belt alignment where it was. Unless I get swamped by local members I am willing to help out those that can't find someone to do this. just a way of giving back for all the info I gained from this site.

You mean deepening the inside of the front of the pulley right ?

That's what I had to get machined deeper, on the pulley, so I could get the nut further onto the 3G shaft.

Sixlitre

Graydevil

· #12 · Jul 22, 2006

I just got done doing my 3g swap probly the best thing i have ever done to my truck my nut is only on by 4-5 threds i need to do something about that..

BigWheelz

· #13 · Jul 22, 2006

Looks good. 3G is the only way to go.

Sixlitre

· #14 · Jul 23, 2006

Graydevil said:
I just got done doing my 3g swap probly the best thing i have ever done to my truck my nut is only on by 4-5 threds i need to do something about that..

Great job Graydevil

Do the headlight wiring upgrade, with the relays, and become a problem in your county at night !

That nut on by only a half dozen threads was what we wuz talkin' bout. I scored a spare dual belt pulley from an alternator shop ($5.00 used) and had a machinist deepen the center by a 1/4" on his lathe.

Cost me $10.00 to have him deepen it but gave me peace of mind on the hwy. Always pictured it coming flying off at 80 mph and hole-ing my rad.

Truth is mine stayed on with 5-6 threads for over half a year.

Sixlitre

collinsperformance

· #15 · Jul 23, 2006

i must have gotten a strange pulley as i did not need a spacer and i did not need to change anything to get 4-5 threads outside the nut. this was the stock pulley off my 2G alt or autozone swapped in the back with something and did not say anything....mike

sampsin

· #16 · Jul 23, 2006

Ya I did the 3g alt upgrade myself on my 78 bronco.

I was concerned with the bolt not grabbing as much threads as well. I swapped to a 2 groove pulley and a nut from the hardware store but it was only good for another couple threads..better than it was..:shrug

I still would like to see some threads on the outside of the bolt though

Graydevil

· #17 · Jul 23, 2006

Sixlitre said:
Great job Graydevil

Do the headlight wiring upgrade, with the relays, and become a problem in your county at night !

That nut on by only a half dozen threads was what we wuz talkin' bout. I scored a spare dual belt pulley from an alternator shop ($5.00 used) and had a machinist deepen the center by a 1/4" on his lathe.

Cost me $10.00 to have him deepen it but gave me peace of mind on the hwy. Always pictured it coming flying off at 80 mph and hole-ing my rad.

Truth is mine stayed on with 5-6 threads for over half a year.

Sixlitre

Thanks six i already did do the relay upgrade on the head lights and the euro lights from lmc they are twice as bright now.. I also just got done rewireing my tallegate with the relays next on the adjenda is a 3 core rad and twin tauras fans..

drkhrs925

· #18 · Jul 24, 2006

There must be a few flavors of the double pulley. I didn't want to shim the pulley out away from the alternator because the belt alignment would then be out ( I know not that much). The pulley with no spacer rubbed against the housing of the 3G. So, I chucked it up in the lathe and shaved down the back side of the pully just enough to have about 0.010" clearance between the pulley and the housing. the nut on mine was just shy of flush when tightened down.
drkhrs925

bremen242

· #19 · Oct 20, 2006

Sorry to bump this to the top, but I am curious where you procured your 3G alternator from. I have a spare one from my '00 F150, however, both mounting tabs are small (like the small tab like where you put the belt tightening bolt in on a 1G), unlike the one in the pics here, one wide tab and one small tab...

Are these from a Taurus too?

81Bronk36

Discussion Starter · #20 · Oct 20, 2006

wow what did you post like 1 minute ago, I saw 81 and decided to check it out... not knowing it was my thread.

I got it out of a 95 Mustang, but IIRC Taurus's have the same thing.

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