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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I know there has been a million write ups about this but I had a member here ask me to let him know how well it works and how easy the swap is. So here it is with pictures.

I'll start by saying that my truck does NOT have guages. It has idiot lights. If you have a fatory amp meter there is another step that is covered i a later reply.

This is what you are removing.

This is what is going in its place.


Step 1: Remove the battery cables


Step 2: Install the 3g (looks like it belongs there)


Step 3: Factory Wiring Harness (Taurus in this case)


Step 3b: Put terminal end on yellow wire in factory harness. This wire doesn't have to be very long. Just long enough to reach the charge post.)


Step 4: Plug harness into alternator. This is where your newly terminaled yellow wire goes. I used a 4g battery cable for my charge cable.


Step 5: At your voltage regulator you will find a green wire with a red stripe. Cut this wire. I left some extra just in case my untested 3g didn't work. (No matter if it didn't, I would have taken the one off my Mustang.) Cut this wire.


Step 6: The Green wire from your new 3g harness gets spliced into the green wire you just cut from you old voltage regulator. (not the regulator end. The end that goes into your factory harness.) I forgot to take a picture of this step. I'll get one later and add it here.

This is the reading with the heat, high beams, 4 ways, stereo, cb radio, and rear window operating.


In looking at this write up I noticed that I forgot to mention that you will have to swap pulleys. A small washer my be needed on the 3g so your v-belt pulley doesn't rub the alternator body. An impact gun really made this an easy thing to do.

I also didn't mention that this in done on a 460. Engine doesn't matter really though.

At the moment, I don't have mine wired into a mega fuse. The charge cable is going directly to the battery (starter solenoid). The mega fuse will be added ASAP. I just didn't have one at the time of this write up.

This has been addressed. You can get the fuse holder at NAPA. The mounting holes for the holder are JUST short of being able to use the factory regulator mounting holes. I used the back hole to mount the holder and drilled one more hole small enough to use the factory regulator screws.


Additional info on this swap can be found on 79F150's write up as well.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198700
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Nice write up. Its on my to-do list. Just a couple questions... What year Tauras did you get the alt from?
'93-'99 3.8 liter v6

You can also find them here:
94-95 V8 Mustang
94-00 V6 Mustang
94-97 V6 T-Bird/Cougar
95-98 Windstar
91-94 V6 Lincoln Continental.
I have also found them on Lincoln Town Cars.


And did you just use the pulley off your old alt for the 3G?
Yes. You may need a small washer as a spacer to prevent the pulley from rubbing the alternator body.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm headin to the junkyard tomorrow morning. :)

I was under the impression that this eliminated the voltage regulator?

It does. Once te 3g is in and wired up, you can take out the regulator and the harness that goes from it to the alternator. You only need the green/red stripe wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Any slippage with the V belt?
None on the '79. Its got a BIG battery in it though so the initial draw from the alternator isn't real big. My '84 on the other hand with a smaller CCA battery squeels bad. I think a bigger battery will solve this as would a bigger diameter alt pulley.
 

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a bigger diamete pulley will stop slipage and it will also drop the amount of power the alt puts out at idle.
 

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I have a dual pulley on the '84. I was going to use the second groove to drive my OBA compressor before I bought the '79. The OBA is going into the '79 now.

Is there a crank pully available that will work with the double pully on the alternator... I installed a 3G in my 79 with the double pully but on my cranks double pully, the size of them is just slightly different, that it would not work properly as a DOUBLE.. and mine DOES squeel under load.. and I have two batteries in my bronc.

Shane
 

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they stopped putting amp gauges in for a reason, they are dangerous.
the OEM one in ford are not dangerous they do not carry the load they are a inductive type gauge, that is why they quit working when people install a newer style alternator in their rigs as the wiring for the amp is skipped over


the old dodges however like to run full load amp meters in their dashs and then like to catch fire from being overloaded
 

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I just started on the 3G swap this afternoon. I got two 3G alternators and some 175A fuses from the junkyard and the bussman megafuse holder from NAPA. I wired it up using 4ga wire, and ran the yellow wire on the alt to the charge post. Swaped pulleys, putting a 3/4 inner diameter, 1 1/4 outer diameter 18ga machine bushing from Tractor Supply (Hillman P/N 838938) on the shaft before putting the v-belt pulley on the 3G.

The next part is where I have some questions:

From the truck harness, there is a 2 wire connector with the green/red wire that needs to go to the green/red one on the 3G. I think the other one is for factory electric choke (white/black), correct? I cut that one right after the connector and put some shrink tube over it. My second question is about the other harness on the truck - 3 wires. One is heavier gage black with yellow stripe. There is also a red wire and a yellow with black stripe. From my hanes manual, it looks like these are wires for charge/voltage dash gages. It also looks like they all are 'fed' from the charge post of the alt. If I connect these to the megafuse (on the battery side, after the fuse), will that allow the gages to work properly? Or is there somewhere/some way I should be hooking these up?
 

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Thanks. I searched and read quite a few threads before doing this swap - thats how I got to this thread. At the time I was mostly focused on getting info about how to ID the correct 3G and what parts I needed. I don't remember seeing anything about those 3 wires - if someone comes across it please post a link. This seems to be one of the more comprehensive 3G write ups with good pictures and helped me a lot (thanks OldsRocket) - having a link to what to do with those wires would probably help others looking to do this swap in the future. I'll keep searching....
 

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diagrams on page 6 here helped me out
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...69&highlight=alternator+upgrade+wiring&page=6

looks like I need the yellow wire hooked up. the other two stay disconnected 'cause they were for the ammeter. Anyone who has done this before please correct me if I'm wrong.(EDIT - look at post 35. The yellow/black and the red wires do not get connected)



EDIT - Fireguy - you found it before me. Thanks for those diagrams. I probably skimmed over them when I was first doing the install but I was focused on getting the parts I needed and forgot they were there. Supposed to be a balmy 35 degrees (better than single digits!!) here tomorrow so I should be able to get this wrapped up before the green flag drops.
 

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if possible, try to do all the wiring inside, then plug it back in as a unit.
If you do it that way, you only need to mess with the GRN/RED wire out in the cool
:beer
 

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diagrams on page 6 here helped me out
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum...69&highlight=alternator+upgrade+wiring&page=6

looks like I need the yellow wire hooked up. the other two stay disconnected 'cause they were for the ammeter. Anyone who has done this before please correct me if I'm wrong.

EDIT - Fireguy - you found it before me. Thanks for those diagrams. I probably skimmed over them when I was first doing the install but I was focused on getting the parts I needed and forgot they were there. Supposed to be a balmy 35 degrees (better than single digits!!) here tomorrow so I should be able to get this wrapped up before the green flag drops.


the thing is i just did this the other day to my 79 and it had no power to the cab after removing the factory alt harness. and no where have i seen anyone tell you about this or what to do about it.

im not the greatest at reading those charts but on my 79 in the 3 wire rubber plug with 1 large black wire, 1 small red and 1 small yellow (the red and yellow are for the factory guage) i needed to run a wire from the big black wire to a constant hot to get power to my cab.

no biggy but thought it needed to be said.
 

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46079Bronco - yeah, I'm seeing this now as I take another hard look at my Hanes manual. That large black with yellow stripe wire goes to the ignition switch and powers quite a few things. I'll edit my incorrect post above, connect the large wire to a + source, and leave the yellow/black stripe wire and the red wire dead ended. Should be posting back here in a short while with results.
 

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SUCCESS - On the 3 wire harness, I did not connect the yellow/black stripe wire or the red wire. I did connect the large black/yellow stripe wire to a positive source - the megafuse block, on the protected side. 12.52 volts on the charged battery and 14.3 with it running at idle, 14.25 with lights and hazards on. I shoulda taken measurements before the swap to compare.

Thanks for all the help!
 

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I've been reading all I can find on this and yours was very informative and easy to follow. Thanks great post. yesterday I pulled one at the j-yard from a 96 3.0 sable but it was bad, I bought a new one and traded the bad one for the core charge. 20 bucks at j-yard and got 25 core credit plus the wiring harness. The guy at Hamiltons Starters/Alternators installed a new v-belt pully on it for me. I used a 4 gauge charge wire, is that big enough? My connector from the Sable did not have a yellow wire? But after looking at some pics on here I decided the orange wire was my yellow, and connected it to the charge post as well. I cut the green/red wire at the regulator as shown on your pics and connected it to green wire on my connector. So I think it is all right ?? I started my bronco and inspected as it ran, looked good. I turned on the lights, heater, and Stereo with 800 wat amp, turned it up pretty loud. The volt meter I installed a few years ago was @ 12 but would drop with the beat of the music? I shut her down and looked her over, to the best of my knowledge everything looks good? I fired her up and went out on a test run. With all power acc. off, step on brake pedal (brake light)and volt meter needle drops to about 10? And said volt meter as well as temp gauge,and oil pressure guage lights dim? Also volt meter needle drops in sinc with turn signal? IDK? possible other wiring problem? Any Idea's?:cry

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1959859#post1959859
 

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IDK? I guess I need to find a qualified technician to diagnose my Electric problems? My new 3g install seems to be correct? But My volt meter drops and lights on volt meter, oil pressure guage, and temp guage dim.When I step on the brake pedal? Also drop/dim in sync with turn signals? Anyone know of good electrical shop in Cincinnati/Northern KY area?
 

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it is not charging.

either your wiring is wrong, or the alt is dead.
 

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It is charging, got 14.5 volts, turns out my v-meter is not working right? Also I have a short in the tail lights. Thanks for the great post, very easy to follow, even for a dummy like me!
 
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