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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1985 bronco. New 3G alternator, 0Ga power wire to the battery side of starter solenoid. Green wire hooked to green/red wire of the old alternator harness. Old harness/regulator removed at fender plug.

I have zero electricity at the key. I turn it and nothing happens. Not even in accessory. My dome light also doesnt work. It did pre-3G.

Whats going on!?

I am currently searching...
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,675 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I think i need to put the fender plug for the old alt harness back in, connect the fusible link, and hook up the green/red wire.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,675 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well that fixed my in-cab electronics, but i still have no starter. Im wondering if my NSS went out.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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I'm sure you will discover your slip up. Well while writing my 1st sentence you fixed a slip up now I'm sure you will find the next little bugger. NSS, Not Dead enough battery to light the interior electronics but not enough juice to energize the Starter system (a Murphy occurrence) or another wire floating around disconnected. I'm definitely no Sparky. Good luck.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,675 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So when i crawl under and manually push the NSS switch in (on the clutch pedal) and turn the key, i hear the starter solenoid clicking. But it wont turn over. Brand new dual batteries reading 13v on my guage.
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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Something internal to the New Alternator? You went from 3G to 3G? All was fine before the switch? Again I'm limited in my knowledge of Electricity,
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,675 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Something internal to the New Alternator? You went from 3G to 3G? All was fine before the switch? Again I'm limited in my knowledge of Electricity,
No, 1G to 3G. My electrical knowledge is hook a wire up and give it power! Thats why i havent yanked all the old feedback carb EEC and harness out. I dont wanna troubleshoot!

Though I have it figured out!

So first, the plunger on my NSS has an adjustable stop on it and when my clutch went to the floor when the slave blew, it backed the adjustment off. I readjusted it. And it works great.

Second, I jumped the starter solenoid and the starter went to work! So it looks like my solenoid is just bad. One more day and i can drive it.
 
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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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It isn't plug and play going from 1G to 3G is it? As far as I have read it isn't, but I'm not 100%. So from what you said you have a few problems all at once? That would be a Royal Murphy Experience. Hope you work it out!
(y)
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,675 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
It isn't plug and play going from 1G to 3G is it? As far as I have read it isn't, but I'm not 100%. So from what you said you have a few problems all at once? That would be a Royal Murphy Experience. Hope you work it out!
(y)
Not plug and play, but almost as simple.

Remove voltage regulator and trace those wires to a 4 prong round plug on the fender. The green wire hooks to the green wire on the 3G plug. The other 3 wires get cut, wired together to the fusible link, and hooked to the hot side of the solenoid. Then run a big fused power wire to the alternator.

I had rewired the old alternator harness at one point when replacing a fusible link and voltage regulator. It was a mess with wires running to wires with a third and fourth in there too. Those wires all connected through the voltage regulator and into the cab. I had removed them to clean things up, not knowing I had basically cut power to the cab!

Yes, i had 3 issues all at once! Murphy and I are well acquainted lol
 
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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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Judging from the time stamps on the threads you seemed to have figured it out within an hour !! Hats off to ya @BigBlue 94 !!

I would still be searching for the answer this time next week :p
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Judging from the time stamps on the threads you seemed to have figured it out within an hour !! Hats off to ya @BigBlue 94 !!

I would still be searching for the answer this time next week :p
I found an old thread saying those wires I left unhooked were the power supply for the cab! And I had power before the 3G. Only so many wires were touched... Once I had power in the cab, that left only two options. And both were having issues! Lol
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,675 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Are you running the batteries in series or parallel?
Idk the correct terminology. 12v system, positives are hooked together by a 4 or 6ga wire. Grounds are both grounded. Nothing new there, besides replacing the batteries. Been like that since the PO did it 20 years ago.
 

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95 XLT 5.8 E4OD
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I was curious. You’re hooked up in parallel. Reason I asked is we use a lot of 24 volt battery hookups for running marine applications and if you accidentally hook them up in parallel things don’t work as well.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I have the dual batteries in my '73 F250 hooked up "Daisy chain" style. I've got the plow, the wig-wag lights, backup lights and the bed hoist all setup to run off the first battery, along with the standard stuff. The second simply doubles the juice capacity. Everything has worked great since my 3G upgrade but that was almost a decade ago and I had Ryan and Dale help me finger it all out. Wish I could be more help but electrical work is a crapshoot at best in my shop. ;)

 

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Hey BigBlue, did you get it working?
I ran into this issue when I converted my '85 to a 3G.
There's a piece of the wiring diagram that's completely missing from how to hook the 3G up, and it's the power to the cab.

Like you, mine was DEAD. No power to the cab at all.

You'll need to reuse part of your original harness. I believe it's the large yellow wire, and hook it back up where it was.
I know I finally found a wiring diagram that had it included atone point, but I will have to search a while to find it.





You can see the wire there though, with the old part of the harness/plug.
The two short wires that are cut are for the ammeter in the dash. DON'T HOOK IT UP. You'll melt your dash ammeter. It's not meant for the voltage of a 3G and needs to be converted to a volt meter.

I can't recall what the green wire goes to at the moment, but that should get you started.
 
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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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14,675 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey BigBlue, did you get it working?
I ran into this issue when I converted my '85 to a 3G.
There's a piece of the wiring diagram that's completely missing from how to hook the 3G up, and it's the power to the cab.

Like you, mine was DEAD. No power to the cab at all.

You'll need to reuse part of your original harness. I believe it's the large yellow wire, and hook it back up where it was.
I know I finally found a wiring diagram that had it included atone point, but I will have to search a while to find it.





You can see the wire there though, with the old part of the harness/plug.
The two short wires that are cut are for the ammeter in the dash. DON'T HOOK IT UP. You'll melt your dash ammeter. It's not meant for the voltage of a 3G and needs to be converted to a volt meter.

I can't recall what the green wire goes to at the moment, but that should get you started.
I did get it working to the point of finding a dead starter solenoid.

My 85 had a volt meter, not ammeter iirc. But now its an Autometer volt meter, just as the rest of the cluster. The factory cluster is on a shelf in my shop.

I had all three of those wires, big yellow, little yellow, and little red tied together previously. So I hooked all three up And to the solenoid. Ill cut those two little wires out.

I had removed that plug and just hooked the green wire to the old green wire spade in the plug. That was the issue.
 

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That's right I forgot you had that custom dash you build. :D

I left the wires on mine since at some point I'd like to get the ammeter converted to a voltmeter (I remember finding someone who did it), but my Sniper shows the battery voltage so it hasn't been a big priority.

Glad you got it all hooked up and working.
I'm curious how many belts you have on your 3G. Mine squealed something awful if I tried to run it with only 1 v-belt.
 
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