Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So my bronco has been sitting for about a year, sadly. Im getting to work on it again. When it was running(broke a shift fork and pulled the trans a year ago) the engine made some lower end noise. Its a 4.9L. the noise was usually loudest when i first started it. You could still hear it when it ran until I started useing 15w40. Anyways i hooked up an oil pressure gauge once and the gauge would jump back and forth until revved up. So im doing the oil pan gasket and rear main seal soon. I bought an oil pump for it, but dont really know what could cause the gauge to jump like that? Ive heard these engines last a long time and are often a little noisey. any info would be great thanks.
 

·
has one helluva
Joined
·
441 Posts
well the thick azz oil prolly aint helping it...if anything what i would do is put like a 5w30 in it, which is a thinner oil and see what the pressure is with that. the pump could very well be good and it could just have a pickup screen in the pan that is clogged with sludge or other stuff. Does it fluctuate more when it is colder? because that would make sense with you using that heavy ass oil. regardless the engine requires 10w30... also a note is that you dont need to fully remove the pan do the gasket. when i did mine all i did was undo all the bolts and let the pan sit on the crossmember, take the old off, and fish the new one around in the pan so it goes around the pickup. i did all this on my back by myself and replacing the pan gasket only took about 25 mins.
 

·
Former owner of Shadofax
Joined
·
17,026 Posts
I think it's always tough on motors to sit like that, and before startup there are several things you probably should do. But anyway, a 112k 4.9 motor is pretty low miles. I too would think about a lighter oil. When was the last tune up? Was the truck sitting in a garage or outside? What was done to the fuel? Lot of things to look at.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,922 Posts
Once my 300 warms up, the pressure drops pretty low. But its a 300...it'll run with damn near no oil at all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
DONT RUN IT! i have the same motor and the bolts holding the bottom plate onto the oil pump will back out causing low oil pressure at idle. it will continue to worsen until they back all the way out and the plate will fall of causing complete loss of pressure (trust me ive experienced it)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I dont exactly remember what the oil pressure was, but it was around spec. bouncing lower then spec oil pressure then back up to spec oil pressure while at idle. Its been about a year sitting, out side. No or very little fuel in it with stabil. Never did a tune up while it was running.(I took it off the road to replace a shift fork and ended up pulling the trans to have it rebuilt, then I ran out of time and towed it cross country, i had to move) Im pulling the pan this weekend and replacing the gasket and the oil pump, i didnt buy a high volume one tho, wondering if i should of. Ill run 10w30 this time. Im going thru it, gonna get a tune up, clean the throttle body, clutch, clutch master cylinder and what ever else it needs. Killing me to see it sit, especially since its in rust capital of the world right now, Jersey Shore. Its originally a Ca truck. before i start it i was going to use the stuff you use to winterize boats and stuff like that. spray it in the spark plug holes to lube the cylinders, it causes a sort of mist or fog that i think will coat the cylinder walls. of course prime the oil pump as well.

@fishforlife, thats what i did to a 302 once to do the oil pan gasket, well had to loosen the mounts and lift the engine up as much as i could. I got the trans out so it should come out, but if not ill do it like you said. I would like to take a look at my bearings and stuff, plus im doing the pump as well. Thanks.

Thanks for the tip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
381 Posts
Yep just did all that, you can replace your bearings if you put a small nail in the oil hole and rotate the crank. This will slide the top part of the bearing out. Do same for install just be careful not to get it dirty and also mic your crank to see if its lobed.
 

·
Roller rockers are gay
Joined
·
19,191 Posts
OP, do you even have a real oil pressure gauge on it?

i ask because the stock gauge is nothing more than an idiot light. if it sees more than 7psi of pressure, the gauge will read normal. it is not normal for a bottom end noise to start out loud, and get quieter as the engine warms. you may have another issues, exhaust leaks can get quiet as the engine heats up.

and 112k on a 300 I6 is NOTHING. 300k is common for these engines and they still have good oil pressure. i've heard of many that went 500k before needing a rebuild.

don't count the 300 as dead yet, do some more investigating first.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
204 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Yes i hooked up a mechanical gauge to the oil pressure sending units hole. the gauge in the truck doesnt flucuate like that. it stays steady and moves a little when revved up.
I have heard good things about the 300, just dont know why mine is so noisey. It was sort of a rental truck before i bought. guy would sell the truck to travelers from europe and then when they bought it back he would return some of the money. its been all over the US. but mainly on the west coast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
410 Posts
The noise you hear on start up could be from worn bearings. The oil will drain out of worn bearings and the crank can slop around until the oil pressure fills up the bearing. If the oil is too thin you can still get some noise. The 15W40 is the proper approach, although it is a diesel oil, which means it should help clean out the engine as diesel oils have excellent soot holding ability. 20W50 would quieten your engine even more.

If you go into the bottom end, I would take your oil pump back and get the high volume one. If you replace the bearings and get the clearances right you can go back to the thinner oils.
 

·
Roller rockers are gay
Joined
·
19,191 Posts
Yes i hooked up a mechanical gauge to the oil pressure sending units hole. the gauge in the truck doesnt flucuate like that. it stays steady and moves a little when revved up.
I have heard good things about the 300, just dont know why mine is so noisey. It was sort of a rental truck before i bought. guy would sell the truck to travelers from europe and then when they bought it back he would return some of the money. its been all over the US. but mainly on the west coast.
what are you actual numbers at: cold start at idle......cold at 2000 rpms. hot at idle, and hot at 2000 rpms......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Well it also depends on the year of your bronco. Mine is an 83, with the same engine, and it seems to love thicker oil, so I run 20w50 and it sits just a little on the higher side. Some of the newer model years like thinner oil though, so just figure out what seems to work for yours and go with it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
149 Posts
If you have the trans out why not just pull the engine. Replace rod and main bearings, oil pump. then you wont have to worry about it for another 200,000 miles.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,998 Posts
yo;
TSB 95-08-08 4.9L Engine Knocking on Cold Start
AFFECTED VEHICLES:
1984-95 BRONCO, ECONOLINE, F-150-350 SERIES
This TSB is being republished in its entirety to include the 1995 model year.
ISSUE: An engine knock of about 3-5 seconds may be heard on initial start-up, after an extended soak time (eight hours or more). This may be due to insufficient oil at the engine bearings, caused by engine oil drainback from the engine oil filter.
ACTION: Install an anti-drainback engine oil filter adapter. Refer to the following procedure for service details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
1. Drain and discard engine oil.
2. Remove and discard engine oil filter.
3. Remove and discard engine oil filter adapter insert.
4. Install the service replacement anti-drainback engine oil filter adapter insert (E4TZ-6890-A).
5. Tighten the anti-drainback insert to 15-35 lb-ft (20-48 N-m).
6. Lightly lubricate the gasket surface of the new oil filter (FL-1A).
7. Install the new engine oil filter to the cylinder block and rotate the engine oil filter one-half turn after the gasket contacts the sealing surface.
8. Fill the engine with the proper grade and amount of engine oil, as specified in the appropriate Owner Guide.
Parts Usage:
E4TZ-6890-A Engine Oil Filter Mounting Insert
Labor: 0.4 hours
Drain bolt torque: 15-25 lb-ft
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
26,998 Posts
yo,
YW RUDSTER!

In my haste to go and work for some $$, I forgot to include a source;
Ford @ http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/ShoppingCart.aspx?addpart=E4TZ-6890-A
INSERT ASY -OIL FILTER MOUNTIN
Part #: E4TZ6890A
$270.09

via RearCounter.com
E4TZ-6890-A
Part:E4TZ-6890-A
Availability: 10 found at 1 seller
Condition: New OEM / NOS (New Old Stock)
PiFordparts.com
(888) 727-0418
Farmers Branch, TX
Show Phone Number
*Tell them you saw it on RearCounter.com*Map & DirectionsSend Seller Email Inquiry


4.9 Parts Break-Out Diagram; Internal & External
Source: by Steve83

See #43 Part number 6890 Oil Filter Mounting Insert
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top