Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I recently bought a 4 inch lift kit and it comes with blocks for the back. I know, I know I should have got bigger leafs but I just can't afford it at the minute. So anyway, my bronco already has small blocks in the back(not sure if these are stock or not)? So my question is do I remove the smaller blocks and put in the blocks that came with the kit or do I put the blocks from the kit on top of the smaller blocks? I originally thought you take out the old and put in the new but I was reading a thread where the guy put in 4 inch leafs and removed the original 4 inch rear blocks and in the pic of what he took off it was the 4 inch blocks as well as the small blocks (His rear end looked higher than the front though). What do I do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Replace the block. Never stack blocks. I have seen it. Not safe, and the farther the axle gets away from the leafs, the more axle wrap.
 

·
Redneck Romeo
Joined
·
1,811 Posts
The correct answer is: It depends.

Do the new blocks have the correct pinion angle? The factory blocks are slanted just enough to give you the right angle of the rear diff (to point it up slightly). If the blocks from the kit are perfectly square, you need the factory blocks UNDERNEATH the blocks that came with the kit. If the blocks from the kit are angled, toss the original ones.

You're not stacking blocks, you're adding a block on top of a shim, essentially. I've run more than 6k miles with my lift kit blocks on top of the factory shimming blocks, and had absolutely ZERO issues whatsoever.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
273 Posts
Typically, this small angle shim remains. In all the bronco lifts I have done and seen, the block has almost always remained...including my own lift!

Keep the shim and stack your block on top. Make sure you torque the ubolts exactly to spec and retorque them after 500-1000 miles or so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
if the original blocks have a little arm sticking out toward the center of the truck, then keep them. those arms that stick out are bump stops. need those. plus if your truck is level right now and you were to install the new blocks and take the old block (bump stop) out then your truck would have look like the ass end is sagging as the front will have been lifted more than the rear.
 

·
Redneck Romeo
Joined
·
1,811 Posts
That block is identical to the ones that are on my Bronco. Put that block on top of the factory wedges and you'll be fine.

Do you need extended brake lines? I got 'em just in case I needed 'em. I installed the front brake lines and never got around to installing the one out back, and haven't over-extended the factory one yet.

I guess the answer to your question is another question: Do you plan on drooping out your suspension while wheeling? Or is the truck not going to do much wheeling?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
191 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I most likely won't be doing much wheeling for a while but if start wheeling often I will probably get new lines. I might even do them now because the back break lines rusted so the fronts are probably close to going too.
 

·
Side step it
Joined
·
1,583 Posts
Make sure you use the factory wedge for sure. You may not notice anything going forward but put it in reverse and hit the gas and you'll hear and feel it almost hop. They keep the pinion angle correct & don't throw away anything. Those are like $50 at Jeff's Bronco Graveyard. Plus, when you decide to replace the blocks with 4" leafs you'll need them & will have to pony up the money for a new pair if you throw them away. By the picture you need to use your factory ones for sure! You can run it without extended lines as long as you don't do anything that makes the rear end fully droop too far but it would be a safe idea later when you do the leafs! Later -Kevin-:thumbup
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,390 Posts
Weld the blocks to the shims. Just a bead on either side after they are mounted. Grind the edges clean before you install them to make it easier.
 

·
Cleaning the trails
Joined
·
931 Posts
Yeah I most likely won't be doing much wheeling for a while but if start wheeling often I will probably get new lines. I might even do them now because the back break lines rusted so the fronts are probably close to going too.

If you get the F350 brake line from Napa it is about 3 inches longer than stock and priced right..

Weld the blocks to the shims. Just a bead on either side after they are mounted. Grind the edges clean before you install them to make it easier.
If I ever end up taking the lift off for some reason I would have to get new blocks. Welding the two together is out of the question.
You can grind the bead you weld to separate the block if needed later on. I have a block with an AAL and the stock shim and have never had any issues. I wheel all the time and have never had any problems.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,004 Posts
If you get the F350 brake line from Napa it is about 3 inches longer than stock and priced right..
the same year as the truck?
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top