Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,330 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've been reading and I haven't found a definite answer on the draglink.

Does a 4" lift that includes a drop pitman arm require a adjustable Draglink?

This is the lift kit that I plan to install,
http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-23850-4-inch-ultra-deluxe-lift-kit-black-bushings-1978-79-bronco.html

Since I'm ordering it all from BGY I want to get everything I will need in one order to hopefully reduce shipping cost.

Anything else I might want to consider to purchase to reduce headaches down the road with this lift kit?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
Mister Cornfed is the man concerning 4 inch lifts.
The kit in post 1 has an adjustable trac bar. Excellent.
Corney can tell you if you need a drop track bar mount.
Drop pitman arm is good but you will likely need the adj drag link too.
Your kit comes with drop radius arm brackets - those ain't real popular on this forum.
At the end of the day your drag link & your track bar need to be parallel
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
I put that system on my 78. I love it. I did not need an ajustable track bar. But drop bracked yes and pitman drop yes.. Dont forget breaklines. and for the record....the instructions say to use a come along to get the d44 back under the truck. They are correct !!! I am running 37.5x12.50x15 with no problem. BTW there was no drive shaft changes either. good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,330 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I put that system on my 78. I love it. I did not need an ajustable track bar. But drop bracked yes and pitman drop yes.. Dont forget breaklines. and for the record....the instructions say to use a come along to get the d44 back under the truck. They are correct !!! I am running 37.5x12.50x15 with no problem. BTW there was no drive shaft changes either. good luck.
According to the list it comes with extended brake lines, yourrs didn't come with them?

So I need to purchase a drop bracket for the track bar?

More then likely I'll run the radius arm drop brackets, but if I change it out I need to run 7* C bushings without the radius drop bracket, correct?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
7 degree check.

That's a damn nice lift kit for 900 bucks btw.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
The kit I ordered did not come with the brake lines so I had to order them seperate. I ordered the kit with the blocks and then went back and thru them in the junk pile and replaced them with teh flips hefty makes. The drop bracket is pictured in the kit you linked. I chose not to go with the rad drop brackets because it lowers the height. They provided the kit with the correct angled C bushings. Many of the threads I read through said only if I was going 6 in or above would thye drop the rad brackets. I agreed. I ran my 78 up to 105mph after I retighten at 500 miles. I get no wobble or pull or nothing. I did however end up with the steering wheel off center. This was a easy fix.I found that I had to remove the entire front axle. This made it easier to install the c bushings. This was a great time to pressure wash the axle and paint it as well. Since it was out from under the truck anyway. I thought they were full of shit when they say use a come along to get it back under the truck. They were right. With all the new bushings it is tight and hard to get it back in place to start the Rad nuts. I found that jacking the thing up so high to clear the extended droop due to the lift was a trick. Once I installed the lift hell....the hubs were on the ground almost. Then I jack it up to install the new tires and rims and then it all made since. I dont rock crawl so I wanted a full wheel well. The 37.5 fill up my wheel well and dont rum. I have pics in the build section it is titles "build continues". The truck is currently in the shop for a paint job and other goodies. good luck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
527 Posts
If an adjustable drag link is not used, how would one adjust or center the steering wheel? I would imagine an adjustable drag link would have to be a must in order to do so.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,330 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
7 degree check.

That's a damn nice lift kit for 900 bucks btw.
That's why I'm getting it, since I need to replace the springs this kit works to my favor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,330 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If an adjustable drag link is not used, how would one adjust or center the steering wheel? I would imagine an adjustable drag link would have to be a must in order to do so.
Is this the only benefit to running a adjustable drag link, center the steering wheel?

Will it eliminate any binding? Make it easier to turn due to force might be redirected? Anything in this line of actions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,330 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The kit I ordered did not come with the brake lines so I had to order them seperate. I ordered the kit with the blocks and then went back and thru them in the junk pile and replaced them with teh flips hefty makes. The drop bracket is pictured in the kit you linked. I chose not to go with the rad drop brackets because it lowers the height. They provided the kit with the correct angled C bushings. Many of the threads I read through said only if I was going 6 in or above would thye drop the rad brackets. I agreed. I ran my 78 up to 105mph after I retighten at 500 miles. I get no wobble or pull or nothing. I did however end up with the steering wheel off center. This was a easy fix.I found that I had to remove the entire front axle. This made it easier to install the c bushings. This was a great time to pressure wash the axle and paint it as well. Since it was out from under the truck anyway. I thought they were full of shit when they say use a come along to get it back under the truck. They were right. With all the new bushings it is tight and hard to get it back in place to start the Rad nuts. I found that jacking the thing up so high to clear the extended droop due to the lift was a trick. Once I installed the lift hell....the hubs were on the ground almost. Then I jack it up to install the new tires and rims and then it all made since. I dont rock crawl so I wanted a full wheel well. The 37.5 fill up my wheel well and dont rum. I have pics in the build section it is titles "build continues". The truck is currently in the shop for a paint job and other goodies. good luck

Just how high did the kit lift your truck?

I'm am tempting the idea to doing this in the garage, and to roll it out I was going to put just the spare rims on to roll it out and then put the 35" tires on the bronco.

Currently with aired up tires around 30" it rolls in the garage with 2 inches maybe between the top of truck and top of garage door.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
513 Posts
2 in and your putting a 4" lift on....dont think it will make it. I got a smooth 4.5 in out of mine. As for the steering wheel. I will simply pull it and reindex it unless I am missing some thing. Currenlty holding off cuz I am looking for a Bronco sport wheel...hard to fine one in good shape.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,330 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
2 in and your putting a 4" lift on....dont think it will make it. I got a smooth 4.5 in out of mine.

That's why I plan to sport only the rims to get it out of the garage, meaning NO TIRES on the rims. That will give me 5 inches. :rofl::histerica
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,166 Posts
Is this the only benefit to running a adjustable drag link, center the steering wheel?

Will it eliminate any binding? Make it easier to turn due to force might be redirected? Anything in this line of actions?
No we are talking about having the axle centered under the truck. That would be with the steering box at the center of it's travel.

Once that's done the wheel can be pulled & reinstalled at center. Alignment shops do this little trick all the time.

A 2x4 across the hub (held vertical) will tell you where the axle is.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top