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It helps cushion the links so noise and harshness aren't transmitted to the rest of the chassis and suspension. The benefits include, but are not limited to, less wear on all parts, not just the bushed ends, less suspension noise in the cab, less cost. The downside includes increased maintenance and a small loss in strength.
 

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All the above are true, The Other advantage is built in adjustability with heims as you will be able to "tune" the length of the links and make up for out of square frames, pinion angles etc. Depending on the link system and how you fab it up.
 

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....ehhh
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow,

So, is sound really that noticable with the 4-link and heims vs half bushings/heims?

If you ran bushings you would want to put them on the frame end right?

I can see where the vibration comes in, but again is it really noticable? More than what you experience going down a dirt road? Does it just seem like a rougher road?
 

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84excursion said:
Wow,

I can see where the vibration comes in, but again is it really noticable? More than what you experience going down a dirt road? Does it just seem like a rougher road?
I'm running extended Rad arms with heims and so far have not experienced any real change in road noise or vibration. Now these have the c bushings etc. at the axel end. So that could make a big difference I don't know... never run a true 4 link w/ heims at each end.
 

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Archer66 said:
I'm running extended Rad arms with heims and so far have not experienced any real change in road noise or vibration. Now these have the c bushings etc. at the axel end. So that could make a big difference I don't know... never run a true 4 link w/ heims at each end.
I'm running a 3 link front with heims both ends. Don't run faster than 40 MPH with the mogs, but have noticed no real difference in road noise whatsoever. The mogs also have no front hubs, so front diff/driveshaft is always spinning. Was expecting to hear front diff gear noise at the very least, but I don't. I do have stock rubber body bushings, might be different if you have urethane body bushings with the full rod end suspension. :rockon
 

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84excursion said:
Why???
I have heard this before but I have never heard an explination?

I have seen lots of 4-links with all heims, but I have seen it the other way too,

:brownbagSorry - I meant I have never run a true 4 link w/ heims.....:doh0715: It's the mad cow.. I can't even type in full thoughts anymore

I've been in some drag cars with that set up in the rear and they wern't bad for ride quality though
 

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SquattyD said:
con
they cant twist like heim, they can only rotate around the bolt
they wear out quickly
no bling factor
I don't think this is true at all. Johnny Joints, RE Joints, and others like them are functionally equivalent to a Heim, but have the bushing material instead of metal-on-metal. I know a few people that wear out Heims a lot faster than the Johnny Joint type.
 

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Larston said:
I don't think this is true at all. Johnny Joints, RE Joints, and others like them are functionally equivalent to a Heim, but have the bushing material instead of metal-on-metal. I know a few people that wear out Heims a lot faster than the Johnny Joint type.
heims do wear out, especially if you dont keep them clean. i was lumping johnny joints into the heim catagory, and was just referring to rubber or poly leaf spring style bushings. johnny joints, uniballs, and evolution style heims are nice because they have a style of bushing inside that makes them easy to rebuild. unlike true heim joints that just have 2 machined surfaces, when they get messed up, thats it.

dogonmut said:
Both not true...unless you use bushings that are to small for the aplication.
a leaf spring style bushing isnt designed to twist (i dont know if twist is the right word, ie the bolt isnt centered in the bushing anymore.), just cushion vibration from front to back and up and down movement. sure, they will let the bolt going thru them deflect and twist, but that leads to them cracking and wearing out. like radius arm bushings.
 

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SquattyD said:
a leaf spring style bushing isnt designed to twist (i dont know if twist is the right word, ie the bolt isnt centered in the bushing anymore.), just cushion vibration from front to back and up and down movement. sure, they will let the bolt going thru them deflect and twist, but that leads to them cracking and wearing out. like radius arm bushings.
A leaf spring bushing must have some twist designed into it as the suspension is constantly twisting the leaves, even in a car. The twist just rarely exceeds +/- 5 degrees or so. I do agree that the more you twist them, the shorter their life span.
 

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Dependig on the size heims or threaded urethane ends people want call me.. I work at a shop in tampa, fl... I can get them fairly cheap... for example 3/4 16 with 3/4hole steering ends cost 16.00$ each..... Mine have been in for around 5000 miles with no problems.. Takes about a week for me to get them, the more I order the cheaper they get.. I would have to call manufacturer to find out how big they can go..... What size would you guys want for suspension? Sorry forgot,,, Most of the bushing ends in our kits are at the frame side, Helps control the noise as stated earlier, and keeps the links on triangulated uppers with a bend from twisting out of position.
 

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pvmntpndr said:
Dependig on the size heims or threaded urethane ends people want call me.. I work at a shop in tampa, fl... I can get them fairly cheap... for example 3/4 16 with 3/4hole steering ends cost 16.00$ each.....
is that a heim joint with 3/4" fine thread shank, and 3/4" thru bolt for $16?
 

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heims

16 smackers for 3/4 16pitch 3/4 through steering heims, they have the teflon or poly sleeving to keep them from getting sloppy like the ones I used for steering the first time... (not fine thread)
 
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