i have a 4 inch lift with extended radius arms when i go to a 6 inch lift will i need 2 inch radius arm drops
i'll answer that: you should hypothetically gain 2" of travel if you're bump stops and everything else stays the same. however, you may have a hard time finding shocks which will have enough travel (for axle from full droop to bump stop) using you're stock shock locations. i know the best i could do was JUST barely enough shock travel for 4" of lift (what i'm running) so if i went 6" i'd either have shocks which would bottom out before the axle hit the bump stop, or else they'd be all the way extended while the truck was just sitting on the ground (no down travel). the fix for this of course is taller shock hoops and high end shocks (more dollars)wat about travel? was it about the same
35's are going to rub badly when the suspension is compressed, weather you have a 4, or 6 inch lift. the 6" lift will just go an extra 2 inches before it rubs... but it'll still rub well before you're bump stops hit.i am lifting it 2 more inches for 35 inch tires and ground clearance i am geting rancho pivot brackets and coils from a friend im going to buy standard shocks for a 6 inch and a shackle flip from sky in the reari have a drop pittman arm already do i need a new one?
i know the spot u are talking about im going to cut that any way35's are going to rub badly when the suspension is compressed, weather you have a 4, or 6 inch lift. the 6" lift will just go an extra 2 inches before it rubs... but it'll still rub well before you're bump stops hit.
the only way to prevent this is to cut out you're fenders.. on you're body style, the worst rubbing spot is the rear of the front fender wells. the fender's are simply too small to fit 35's, so unless you have a ridiculously high lift so high that the tires never enter the fender wells (picture a monster truck), then it's going to rub. i'd stick with 33's if i were you (unless you want to cut the fenders)