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I have a 92 bronco with a 302 and a manual shifting t case. I have had it about 6 months now but for the past 2 months I haven't driven it much at all. I recently discovered that the 4 wheel drive will not engage. I get a 4x4 light when I go into 4 hi, and when I go into 4 lo it is definitely in low but also definitely not in 4 wheel drive. I still have the original automatic hubs but am skeptical as to get new hubs just because they both failed to engage at the same time. I guess that is possible. Anyone have any other ideas?
 

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Have you ever serviced the hubs, or cleaned the hub locks? It's part of the regular maintenance schedule. :deal This is why so many people think auto hub locks are unreliable ;) - but it's actually the owners failing. :twak
 

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yo Dan,

Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at FSB

Operational Test in a 96 (similar to your 92); "...Automatic Locking Hubs: Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction. NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position. Road Test; When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance. Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction. If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced. Should hublocks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and 4x4 Gear Oil F1TZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (F1TZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hublocks. Reassemble hubs using procedures in this section. Refer to Section 05-03A or Section 05-03B for replacement of outer axle shaft seals or spindle inner seal and bearing. ..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford


To ensure lubrication of the front axle, engage hublocks for a minimum of one mile monthly..."
Source: by Warn®


Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation; same for 87-96; exc for that in 87; power from Fuse 6 (15 amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" WHT-PPL and CB 12 (30amp) to "ELECT SHIFT CONTROL MOD" BLK-WHT; SEE A7 and A8 in the 4x4 diagram, it shows those two wires BLK-WHT as BK/W from SHIFT MODULE to P1 BATTY and and WHT-PPL as W/P to P2
Source: by Ford via http://www.revbase.com/BBBMOTOR/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=35193
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just a follow-up, turned out to be the hubs. Switched over to some manual locking hubs and it works great!
 

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Just a follow-up, turned out to be the hubs. Switched over to some manual locking hubs and it works great!
Yo,
Great & Thanks for letting us know!
 

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Nothing like locking them in yourself and knowing there locked. Had an 1989 chevy with a thermal activator which almost got me stuck a couple times cause it wouldn't lock the axles.
 
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