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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen a few threads on this swap but nothing really set in stone, first hand accounts of people doing it without the L&L kit. I have used the kit years back to add a 460 to a '78 bronco, yes it did work perfect. This time I'd like to not go the L&L kit route for a couple reasons. First is that the motor is a 545 stroker, the machinist I had balance it drilled the flexplate, so I'm going to have to try and replicate the lightening holes on the flywheel. I'd rather drill into a $120 flywheel than a $419 one. There is also a total cost thing too, $685 plus another $100 for the Z-bar linkage bracket.

Can anyone confirm what I've gathered is necessary for the swap? I have the NP-435, two different clutch pedal assemblies(one with spring one without), the Z-bar linkage, and a throw out bearing arm. I'll try and post pictures of the pedal assemblies.

Am I correct that I need a 360/390 flywheel, 302 pilot bushing, 351m/400 four speed starter, and Z-bar linkage bracket?

Is there supposed to be a separator plate between the np-435 bellhousing and the 460 block like the c-6's have? Anything else? The bronco is a '79 sitting on a '87 f-350 frame so I know I may have some fiddling to do with the clutch linkage.
This is the build thread I started here. Bronco Ranger F-350. My build.
Thanks.
 

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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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The only thing I can confirm for you is that, yes, you do need the plate between the engine and the bellhousing for the NP435.

I used the L&L kit, so I can't really say on the piece meal setup. I've probably read all the same threads you have on it and, like you, I wasn't 100% sure what was needed as everyone argued about it in all the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Clutch pedal pictures.
169260

Is there a better choice between these? Guy I bought them from said either one would work. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The only thing I can confirm for you is that, yes, you do need the plate between the engine and the bellhousing for the NP435.

I used the L&L kit, so I can't really say on the piece meal setup. I've probably read all the same threads you have on it and, like you, I wasn't 100% sure what was needed as everyone argued about it in all the threads.
Yup, I've seen your posts on several threads about this topic. I am surprised that this info isn't more clearly written out somewhere, I kinda thought I might find it in a sticky here, unless L&L was or is a sponsor/advertiser. ;)

Jess
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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My 78 351m has an np435.

You need a flywheel from any 460. Even a 90s flywheel should work. Dont drill holes in the flywheel. Take it all back to the machine shop and have them balance it.

Yes to the separator plate.

Looks like you are missing the z-bar linkage pivot brackets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Your 351m has a np435 but I want to add one to my 460. A 90" flywheel will be for an externally balanced 460, mine isn't externally balanced, except for where the machinist did what he did. There is no weight on the front of the crank, crank is a 4.5" stroke forged piece. I'm not going to completely disassemble my motor to have it rebalanced.

Thanks for the other info.

Jess
 

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The only thing I can confirm for you is that, yes, you do need the plate between the engine and the bellhousing for the NP435
Also, the block plate for the C6 and NP-435 will be different! I didn't see that noted anywhere else. With the small block, the difference is both lower bolt pattern starter position. For the big block, if the flexplate and flywheel have the same tooth count, at least the starter location should be unchanged.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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16,371 Posts
Your 351m has a np435 but I want to add one to my 460. A 90" flywheel will be for an externally balanced 460, mine isn't externally balanced, except for where the machinist did what he did. There is no weight on the front of the crank, crank is a 4.5" stroke forged piece. I'm not going to completely disassemble my motor to have it rebalanced.

Thanks for the other info.

Jess
The flywheel has to be balanced to the engine. It can be done without disassembling the engine. Most engines are internally balanced, so thats nothing special to not have the weight on the crank snout.

My point was for YOU to not go drilling holes all willy nilly just matching the ones on the flexplate. The flywheel may not even need as much material removed. Because the flexplate and flywheel are balanced differently. Even two flywheels would require slightly different balancing. It needs to be done on a proper machine. If its not perfect, bearings will suffer. And your nice new stroker will have half the life expectancy.

The engine should be balanced before the flywheel/flexplate is bolted on. Then material is removed to balance the flywheel/flexplate. Not to balance the engine.
 
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78 Custom 460 NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI HyperSpark Ignition 4.56 Gears Front/Rear Grizzly Lockers
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Fwiw, I used an internally balanced crank on my 460 and used a neutral balanced flywheel. The flywheel was mounted with the rest of the drive train after the engine was installed into my Bronco and nothing was done to the flywheel, no drilling or shaving. It was put on straight out of the box. Haven't had any issues so far.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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^^^ that is common practice. My machinist wanted to do it with the flywheel so i did. He builds everything from 4 cylinder rice burners to big rig diesels. And drag races on the side. He is a one man operation and i let him do as he pleased. He definitely knows more than I.
 
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