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Discussion Starter #1
i can not find any posts on issues engaging the 4wd. my dash switch is connected well as the background lights work. i was suspicious as i have had the dash off for other items.

all fuses are good.. is there a relay or ? I need to track?
 

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If the "4x4" and "low range" lights are coming on how do you know the 4x4 isnt working? Is the transfer case shift motor not engauging?
 

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yo,

if Hubs are ok, take a few to go through this;
Four Wheel Drive (4X4) General Information, Operation & Troubleshooting TSB 92-1-8 for Bronco, F Series & Ranger (COMPLETE); Includes Electric Shift On The Fly (ESOF) Troubleshooting & Hub Operation, etc.

by Ford via Chilton
see page 8


Auto Locking Hubs
Operational Test in a 96; "...Automatic Locking Hubs: Raise vehicle on a hoist so that all wheels are off the ground. Start engine (6007) with vehicle in neutral and transfer case in two-wheel drive. Front wheels should spin freely by hand. Put transfer case in 4WD and put vehicle in gear. Front and rear wheels should rotate together. Put vehicle in neutral and spin front wheels by hand in the forward direction. The front axle and front driveshaft should rotate with the wheels. The additional load of the drivetrain components should be felt once the hub has been engaged. To disengage the hubs, spin the wheels in the opposite direction until an audible click is heard. Spin wheels forward again and they should rotate freely without the axle and driveshaft rotating. Repeat the procedure, only shift into 4-wheel drive and put the vehicle in reverse. This time the hubs should release when the front wheels are spun in the forward direction. NOTE: While the vehicle is hoisted, shift into 4-wheel drive from a dead stop and not while rear wheels are rotating in order to avoid slamming the hub locks into the lock position. Road Test; When checking front hubs for proper operation, road test the vehicle to make sure the hubs will remain engaged while under load. This is accomplished by engaging 4-wheel drive and taking the vehicle through several turns (both forward and backward) on dry pavement. This will put an additional load on the front wheel at the outside of the turn because it is traveling the greatest distance. Driving through several turns while traveling in different directions will make sure that both sides of the hub teeth have been tested under load. Hubs that are not sufficiently engaged will pop out when loaded. This is due to the driveline releasing windup and is an indication of hub malfunction. If slippage is suspected, mark the tire and axle shaft with chalk (after locking the hub) and apply a heavy torque load several times. Then inspect your original indexing marks. If they are no longer aligned, the hubs are not remaining locked when under load. They will have to be replaced. Should hublocks become submerged in water or mud for a long period of time, water may get past the seals and into the hubs and axle. In this case, all water must be expelled from the system. The axle must be drained by loosening the axle cover and 4x4 Gear Oil F1TZ-19580-A (WSL-M2C191-A) used to refill the axle (F1TZ-19580-A has no equivalent). Disassemble the hubs using procedures in this section and repack the wheel bearings using procedures in this section and dry off the hublocks. Reassemble hubs using procedures in this section. Refer to Section 05-03A or Section 05-03B for replacement of outer axle shaft seals or spindle inner seal and bearing. ..." from 1996 F-150, F-250, F-350, and Bronco Workshop Manual
Source: by Ford


Manual;
Operational Test; "...To CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT, dial both hubs to LOCK and raise the front left corner of the vehicle off the ground. Spin the lifted tire. The drive line will turn if the Hub is engaging properly. TO CHECK FOR PROPER DISENGAGEMENT, dial the lifted wheel hub into FREE and spin the lifted wheel. If the drive line does not turn AND you hear NO ratcheting sounds, the hub is disengaging properly. Repeat step 5- 6 with the right wheel & hub. NOTE: The hubs are not required to seat against the wheel housing when installed, they may move in and out quite easily. This “float” is normal and will not affect performance..." ; miesk5 NOTE; these instructions are similar to original Warn's, but diagrams are clearer
Source: by Warn®

Operational Test; Remember to block the wheels. This would work for testing manual hubs too, just lock them 1st; "...Place transfercase in 2HI or Neutrall. 2. Lying under vehicle, turn front drive shaft (one direction only). 3. Automatic hubs should lock after 1 to 5 turns of driveshaft (one direction only). After step 3 the hubs should lock, youll know they are locked becouse you will hear a click from both hubs and you will no longer be able to turn the front drive shaft (in the same direction). If this is not the case then continue to step 4. If you can no longer turn the drive shaft (in the same direction) then skip to step 7. 4. If you can still turn the drive shaft (one direction only) then one or more of your Auto hubs is not working. 5. Continuing to turn the Drive shaft (one direction only). 6. Look at the u-joints for the front stub axles, if both are turning then both front hubs are malfunctioning, if only one is turning then the one that is not turning is locked and the one turning is malfuctioning. Replace as necosary (preferably with manual hubs, Auto hubs have Yams in them) 7. To unlock the hubs, turn drive shaft in opisat direction untill you hear a click from the hubs. To check for transfercase engagement. 1. Place pushbutton transfercase in either 4 HI or 4LO. 2. lie under vehicle. 3. You should not be able to turn front drive-shaft in either direction. 4. If you can turn the front drive shaft then your transfer case is not shifting properly..."
Source: by Gacknar (The Mall-Crawler, Jeremy, "Big grey megga beast") at FSB
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the background running lights work.. the two amber lights do not. typically the amber lights go on a few seconds after pushing the momentary switch.. I am thinking there is another fault? I hope to get to it later today.. thanks for your input.. the schematic also helps on the other post so i can properly test the switch to be sure...
 

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yo blu bayu mon,
In that TSB by Ford, see Pages 10- 11
If the dash lights on any vehicle don’t respond, look for no power or a burned out bulb
If no lights illuminate as you go through the shifts and ground power and bulbs are good,
module is at fault;
or the motor has stopped at an intermediate point (thsis is a common problem, some whack da motor w/rubber mallet, other pull it and repair). see 1356 Electric Shift Motor Troubleshooting & Repair (travel stops)
Source: by Richard C (Bigric, Money Pit) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30512

1356 Electric Shift Motor Typical Failures & Prevention; "...Most units fail because of water or mud intrusion. Carefully inspect motor boot or protective coverings. Be sure connector seals can keep water and debris out. Check wiring harness and connector. Replace or repair wiring as necessary. After installation, periodically select 4-wheel drive mode to ensure operation when needed..."
Source: by CARDONE®
 
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