so you have no parking brake?
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2002-04 Lightning 4wheel disk 1-1/4" bore Master Cylinder
Stock 1980-96 Bronco Power Brake Booster
Proportioning Valve from Summit Racing
1967 Mustang Distribution Block (no proportioning valve)
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1972-79 ThunderBird 3-1/8" bore Front Calipers
Stock 1980-96 Bronco 11.72" Front Rotors
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1983-97 4WD S10 2-1/2" bore Rear Calipers
1977-86 Jeep CJ-7 11.75" Rear Rotors
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I had brake problems, and I drive too fast to depend on the stock brakes. My first problem was the combination valve mounted on the frame. After 20+ years I could tell a buildup of sludge was in there. I couldn't blow air through it, so I knew brake fluid couldn't freely flow to the front calipers. Replacing it would be costly and I didn't need the built in drum brake proportioning valve. I replaced it with a simple distribution block from a 1967 Mustang, and a separate adjustable proportioning valve.
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My second problem was finding a good rebuilt master cylinder. I didn't trust the rebuilt master cylinders using 20+ year old cores. So I choose a newer style aluminum master cylinder from a 2002 Ford Lightning Truck. It has larger 1-1/4" bore which fill the larger calipers pistons quicker. I am very happy with this decision, the whole system works great!
I kept the stock power brake booster because I've never had a problem pushing the brake pedal.
PLEASE DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH, MY IDEAS MAY NOT WORK FOR YOU!
Master Cylinder, Adjustable Proportioning Valve & Stainless Steel Lines
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Distribution Block & Stainless Steel Lines
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Front Brake setup
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Must have the early 80's knuckles to use these larger calipers
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Rear Brake setup
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In Michigan rust belt, I've never owned a vehicle with a working e-brake. The cables rust solid. I did the rear disk brake swap in May of 2004, never needed a parking brake.so you have no parking brake?
The ratio is lower but I don't think the force is a problem, but like I said smaller master cylinders need more travel to fill the pistons. Here are some numbers:Was the ratio of master cylinder bore-to-caliper piston bore the same or did it change? I only ask because a larger master cylinder bore yields higher force required to create an equivalent force on the brake pad assuming the same size caliper piston.
hmmm. i may have to look into my system to see if i can get better stopping. i've upgraded everything minus the rear wheel cylinders and i can't for the life of me get the tires to lock up.In Michigan rust belt, I've never owned a vehicle with a working e-brake. The cables rust solid. I did the rear disk brake swap in May of 2004, never needed a parking brake.
I can assure you my new setup STOPS dramatically faster than the old setup, which was better than stock. With my performance street tires this truck
STOPS!
nope, search :toothlessAre the fittings on the Lightning master cylinder the exact same as the original's?
:scratchheNo, 1987-96 Bronco master cylinder is M18-1.5 and 9/16x18
All those larger master cylindres are 7/16x24 and 9/16x18
I let her drive it this afternoon, she had no problem pushing the brake pedal. In fact she said "the brakes are awesome"I'll let my 5ft 110lb wife drive and get feedback.
It would take 2 minutes to cut off the one fitting adn re-flare the right fitting on there. :smilie_slapI think I'll just bypass a whole lot of time & effort, and just go with a factory replacement m/c.
I suggest your tires are overwhelming your brake system even with the upgrades due to the increased leverage larger diameter tires provide.hmmm. i may have to look into my system to see if i can get better stopping. i've upgraded everything minus the rear wheel cylinders and i can't for the life of me get the tires to lock up.
maybe someone here may have some input.
i have 350 booster and mc, t bird calipers and stainless lines everywhere. 35x12.50 baja claws
do you think rear discs would be much of an improvement?
i do however want to retain a parking brake
Very nice!I gutted it out because i'm using 2005 sd axles with rear disks. Dual piston calipers and 14" rotors.
That is what I would do now, if I could redo it….My question is.....I could just take the lines directly from the m/c to the front and rear axles without a combination or prop valve?
That is so the brake warning light will work if there is a leak in the system. The good high pressure side pushes the slider over and turns on the light.What was the purpose of having both going to a single point before distributed to the axles?
You would still have brakes, there is a divider inside that plastic reservoir, which would keep the brakes working on the good side.If I had a failure from one cylinder of the m/c I would still have brakes on either the front or the rear, which is the whole purpose of the two chamber master cylinder. Right?
2002 Lightning M/C was 1-1/4in bore, while the 2005 Super Duty trucks had both 1-5/16 and 1-3/8 bores. I’m sure it’s better than 1979 Brakes, but a slight downgrade from the Super Duty.Also, I have an 02 lightning m/c, will that push enough fluid for the dual piston calipers?
I work at advance while in school. So I did the same thing. I measured the inside of booster hole with calipers and then went to work and pulled every ford master cylinder we had till i found the one with the biggest bore that would still fit in my booster and ended up with the 02 lighning m/c. I didn't want hydroboost and I don't want touchy brakes cause they're dangerous on the rocks imo.I originally got a 1-3/8in bore M/C for my truck, but it wouldn’t mount to my brake booster, it was so much bigger than the 1-1/4 M/C. I would have had to get a Super Duty vacuum booster or hydroboost, and I wasn’t sure if the booster would fit my firewall, and didn’t want hydroboost. Here is my post on Master Cylinders:
http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=107273