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Hello, I am still looking for a Bronco for a first car. I have been finding some cool ones but a few have the 5.0 instead of the 5.8. I am wondering if the 5.0 is worth choosing over the 5.8, and how many miles can a 5.0 take. I would love the help!
 

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1992 XLT w/302 on 33s
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Really all depends on how it was driven and maintained. The 302 has a noticeable difference in torque, but I don't feel much difference on the highway. Neither machine is a power monster and I feel in 95% of situations it wouldn't matter which one you had. Key is find a clean one that has been maintained. My 302 spun a rod bearing on #8 at 150k miles. My dads 351 broke a ring and had some other serious head damage at 180k. But I've seen several of both motors go over 200k.
 

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93 XLT 347, GT40 Heads, Bassani headers/exhaust, E4OD
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Don’t knock the 4.9L in-line 6 either if you find one in good shape. Solid, torquey motor.
 
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78 & 92
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In my opinion, in my part of the country, Rust trumps everything else. If your budget allows you to be picky on the engine the 5.8 is the way to go in these trucks. However most of these rigs that are affordable (they have gone up in the past 2 years especially) are going to all have 150k+ likely near or over 200K, while that is not an issue, it means an engine rebuild is a likely reality if you plan to own it more then 5 years. That said I would buy the cleanest one I could afford and put the engine I want in it.
If your not in the rust belt you can be a bit more picky...

As mentioned the 5.8 makes more torque down low, which is what these trucks need. If you plan on doing any towing, you will likely want to start off with the 5.8. Engine wise, I agree that both can go the distance, however the 351W has a lot of features that make it a stand out truck engine over the 302.
 
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Yo Supernova16,
Welcome!
➡➡➡⚠ Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you. ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence, read about it @ About ASE - ASE.
Find an ASE shop @ Shop Locator - ASE
Google each for reviews especially in Yelp, Facebook, BBB.

Ask seller if cruise control, if equipped recall work completed by dealership? Call dealer & have VIN ready to confirm or check status @ https://www.safercar.gov
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that 93 recall is different than the 94-96.

Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for 80-96 Model Year & Engine Type by NHTSA @ Welcome to VIN Decoding :: provided by vPIC

Our Navy Federal Credit Union used to suggest using https://www.nadaguides.com for finding the "value" of a vehicle.

Order a CARFAX™. Although not all accident info May not be provided, other important info is provided @ https://www.carfax.com

VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @ VINCheck® | National Insurance Crime Bureau

While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
Oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
Try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass
Radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
Auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.
Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL.
For it and C6 or AOD, look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

The M5OD is a top shift, fully synchronized, five-speed manual transmission (7003), equipped with an overdrive fifth gear ratio. All gear changes including reverse are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves.
Inspect the case for cracks, worn or damaged bores, damaged threads, or any other damage that could affect operation of the transmission. Inspect the machined mating surfaces for burrs, nicks or damage.
The clutch may be hard to depress and/or the clutch slave cylinder may wear out prematurely on some Broncos. This may be due to the clutch slave cylinder allowing hydraulic fluid to leak.
Preventative Measure; You should have the rubber shift cover plugs resealed at your earliest possible convenience. A common occurrence with this model transmission is the rubber plugs shrinking over time and allowing lube oil to leak out of the transmission. This occurs while the vehicle is in operation, so there is less of a tendency for a puddle to develop when the vehicle is sitting parked. The result to the transmission is a lack of lubrication and damage to some very expensive gears and bearings.

Also in non-carbureted Broncos the Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

Same for:
E4OD Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL), it is a LED and overdrive on/off switch at end of the Transmission shifter stalk; flashing OD light is an indication of a transmission related trouble code in the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Is it flashing while driving?

For the 95 do a SELF TEST for diagnostic trouble codes (DTC)s by my pal BroncoJoe
or have such as Equus 3145 Innova OBD I Code Reader for Ford EEC IV Engines at Walmart & most parts stores.

RABS Overview; "...The Rear ABS is what is called an "open" hydraulic system. When an ABS stop is initiated and wheel lock is detected, the isolation or inlet valve closes, preventing any more fluid from going to the rear wheels. Then, if necessary to prevent lockup, an outlet or dump valve opens to bleed fluid out of the rear brake lines. That fluid goes to an accumulator and is held there for the remainder of the stop.In RABS "open" system, if there is a low fluid condition and the red warning light comes on, the ABS electronic control unit will detect this condition, turn the amber ABS warning light on and disable the system. The vehicle operator will still have basic brake system performance, but the benefit of RABS is lost.The reason for disabling the RABS is that the low fluid condition could be caused by a leak in the brake system, decreasing its performance..."

The 4-wheel anti-lock brake system (4WABS) in 93-96 is self monitoring. When the key is placed in the RUN position, the anti-lock brake electronic control module will perform a preliminary self check on the anti-lock electrical system indicated by a momentary illumination of the amber ABS warning light in the instrument cluster. During vehicle operation, including normal and anti-lock braking, the anti-lock brake electronic control module monitors all electrical anti-lock functions and some hydraulic operations. In most malfunctions of the anti-lock brake system, the amber ABS warning light will be illuminated. However, most malfunctions are recorded as a coded number in the anti-lock brake electronic control module memory and assist in pinpointing the component needing service.
Our module blew it's microprocessors a few years ago and two yard modules were bad. No returns so I'm running without 4WABS, just like the old days.

Cash is King!!!
When Richard Rawling, star of TV show Fast N' Loud was growing up in Fort Worth, Texas, his dad, Raymond Rawlings always had a car or a motorcycle lying around. “It wasn’t the nicest or the best, but it was his,” the younger Rawlings says. Ray wasn’t much of a mechanic, more of a detailer and a tinkerer. On weekends, the guys in the neighborhood would come over, mess around with whatever car Ray had at the time and drink beer in the garage.
One of those guys who came around also taught Rawlings a lesson about negotiating that he still carries with him: “I was around 13. He said, ‘Son, you could buy a $10,000 car all day long for five grand if you have it in your pocket. Always carry cash.’ ”

"Cashier’s checks can be forged, money orders can be forged, and personal/business checks can be forged. Cash can also be, but it’s harder to make believable and easier to test. Take a powerful magnet with you. Yes a magnet. You see, on top of ID strips and watermarks, the ink the federal reserve uses has iron in it, therefore it will be attracted to a powerful magnet.
"by Froggmann @ 8 steps to protect yourself when selling a vehicle.
Banks cash fakes, then hold you responsible. ..
As craigslist advises, "Do not extend payment to anyone you have not met in person.
Beware offers involving shipping - deal with locals you can meet in person.
Never wire funds (e.g. Western Union) - anyone who asks you to is a scammer.

Sometimes a seller may "promise" to return a certain amount of money during negotiations..
Transactions are between users only, no third party provides a "guarantee".
Never give out financial info (bank account, social security #, paypal account, etc).

A summary of questions to ask the seller;
Do you have the maintenance records?
Do you have the title in hand and is there a lien on the Bronco?
How do I get the title?
Has the vehicle been in any accidents?
How much tread is left on the tires?
Are there any scratches or dents on the vehicle?
Did this car belong to a smoker?
Was this car used by pet owners?
Can I receive close-up pictures of a specific area (miesk5 note, such as on 1/4 panels, tailgate, etc)?
Are there any document or preparation fees?"
Courtesy of ebay

General Inspection Checklist by Free VIN Check Reports and VIN Check with some changes by me.
"Exterior
Windshield free of cracks
Body panel colors match
Magnet adheres to all steel body panels
Fresh paint job (if yes, it could be to conceal rust)
Seams where the tailgate and hood close are properly aligned
Seams where doors and fenders meet are properly aligned
Free of body scratches
Free of body dents
Windshields wipers and blades fully functional
Headlights and directional lights intact and fully functional
Tires
Tires are all of the same size
Tires are of free of any cuts, bubbles or cracks
Tread worn evenly (uneven wear indicates alignment and suspension problems)
Spare tire, jack and lug wrench on Bronco and fully functional
Spare tire inflated
Engine
Free of fluid or oil leaks
Oil filler neck not coated with thick, black deposits
Battery terminals free of corrosion
Free of odors while engine is running
Exhaust pipe emissions are neither blue (indicates engine burns oil) or black (indicate excessive oil consumption)
Suspension
Vehicle rests levelly
When bouncing the vehicle's corners, no creaking noises are made
All corners respond the same when bouncing
Interior
All doors open and close freely
Tailgate opens and closes freely
Lacks a heavy scent of air freshener (may indicate something is being concealed)
All gauges work
No dashboard warning lights remain illuminated
Stereo works
Heater works
Air conditioner works
Windshield wipers work
Windshield wiper fluid dispenses properly
All seats equipped with functional seat belts
All seats adjust properly
Power windows operate properly
Alarm works (if applicable)
Tailgate and door lock and unlock with key
Hazard lights function properly
Headlights, including brights, work properly
Frame
Chassis is neither bent nor cracked
No signs of welds, crumpling or straightening inside the cargo area
*No signs of crumpling or straightening espeically in front "accordion section (crumple zone)

Automatic Transmission
Transmission neither slips nor delays when driving
Manual or Standard Transmission
Each gear shifts smoothly
No grinding noises when in reverse
Brakes
Vehicle steers straight and does not pull to one side when applying brakes
Parking brake engages and disengages freely
No grinding noises when applying
Wheels do not lock when applying antilock brakes
Steering
Vehicle does not drift to one side without prodding
Vehicle is stable; no shaking or vibrating
No resistance in the steering wheel when turning
No clicking or clunking when turning
Miscellaneous
Owners manual located in the glove compartment
Instructions included for any accessories"

Post pics here or in Noobie Section.
See How to Post Pics @ How to POST PICTURES

Good fortune!
Al
 

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1988 5.0L E/B AOD, bone stock+ 1993 5.8L E/B, E4OD, 4"lift with 33's
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1,311 Posts
228,000 miles on my 88 5.0 and still running strong. I drive it every day. Anything breaks get's fixed right away. Been changing the oil every 3000 miles since I got it at 80,000 miles. Take care of your stuff and it will last forever.
 

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forget the engine. take the condition of the rest of the truck into account. use the engine condition only to help with price negotiations. if it has a 302, those are easily stroked, or swapped to 351W. As mentioned the 300 I6 is no motor to scoff at. It may not be fast, but it is torquey, and it does have some good potential as well for power adders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
228,000 miles on my 88 5.0 and still running strong. I drive it every day. Anything breaks get's fixed right away. Been changing the oil every 3000 miles since I got it at 80,000 miles. Take care of your stuff and it will last forever.
Thank you so much for the info, and I definitely agree with taking care of your engine...
 

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I have one of each, they pretty much perform equally. The '96 302 has about 123K, the '94 has 177K. They both will get up to freeway speed on the entrance ramp.
 

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I've has both 5.0 & 5.8 on previous Broncos & when looking for my latest Bronco, I was not partial to either as I liked both. I ended up with a 5.0 in this one, and it's power is just fine by me...
yeah, and I bet you're also fine with 9mm, not a real caliber like .45 ACP.
 

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Hello, I am still looking for a Bronco for a first car. I have been finding some cool ones but a few have the 5.0 instead of the 5.8. I am wondering if the 5.0 is worth choosing over the 5.8, and how many miles can a 5.0 take. I would love the help!
My 94 has 206k on the original engine. Other than normal replacement of hoses and a few leaks here and there that were addressed, it runs fine.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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yeah, and I bet you're also fine with 9mm, not a real caliber like .45 ACP.
Absolutely not, I'll stick with my 1911's!!

I have new sports cars & old classics for power, so whether it has a 5.8L & keeps up with traffic just fine & get 12mpg, or it has a 5.0L that keeps up with traffic just fine & gets 15mpg, either way, its still a big heavy lumbering truck, that if your average minivan driver wanted to get in front of you off the light to cut over to get the kids McDonald's, there isn't much the Bronco will be able to do about it except hit the brakes, or go into monster crush mode when the minivan overtakes you easily...
 

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Absolutely not, I'll stick with my 1911's!!

I have new sports cars & old classics for power, so whether it has a 5.8L & keeps up with traffic just fine & get 12mpg, or it has a 5.0L that keeps up with traffic just fine & gets 15mpg, either way, its still a big heavy lumbering truck, that if your average minivan driver wanted to get in front of you off the light to cut over to get the kids McDonald's, there isn't much the Bronco will be able to do about it except hit the brakes, or go into monster crush mode when the minivan overtakes you easily...
Sounds like we need to do some engine work on your trucks if they can't beat a minivan! lol
 
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