[regret]

As per this thread https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threads/bronco-dead-in-mud-hole.509430/page-2#post-7259252 , I am going to be swapping my 5.0 for a 5.8. Motor was found to be dead on Sunday with a hole in the block. I sourced a complete 5.8 out of a wrecked 1995 F150 this morning which should be a roller motor or roller ready. Don't have pics of anything yet but this engine will be going in the truck this weekend assuming it has compression. The engine is complete from Y pipe to the intake. My truck is a MAF truck and this one is Speed Density. If I can't get the MAF to work then the truck will get converted to speed density. The new engine appears to have been on propane it's whole life and is very clean. For 500$ a complete engine with all the accessories, brackets, exhaust pipe and other bits seems like a good deal to me. I'm going to put new gaskets, my accessories on it, and a paint job before installing it.

I know I need a new flywheel but can't think of anything else I might need. It would be nice to have a 5.8 MAF computer but I'm not going to worry about that right now.

Anything anyone can think of that might hold me up would be appreciated. Pictures to come.

Thanks.

 

[Gun Toting Hippie]

Depends on the year of your truck and trans. I think in most cases the ECM will hold you up and the SD from MAF swap.

 

[regret]

Depends on the year of your truck and trans. I think in most cases the ECM will hold you up and the SD from MAF swap.

The truck has a standard transmission that I swapped in. It is running the original E4OD/MAF/5.0 computer which has given me zero problems. I'm going to swap all the electrical from the 5.0 onto the 5.8 and I'm hoping it will run the 5.8 otherwise I can go find a SD/5.8/ZF5 computer.

 

[bratcop]

Maf meter might be a little small for a 5. 8 but should work. Your harness will have a ps plug, 5.8 won't have a place to plug it in, tuck it. Don't know about springs up front but should be OK. Not sure exhaust will bolt up, deck height might be taller.

Sent from my LG-US996 using Tapatalk

 

[regret]

This is the only photo I have of the incident. More to come on the weekend when I see the truck again.

 

[jermil01]

The MAF setup will run that 5.8 with no trouble..I'd recommend taking the entire harness (injector harness as well since that's different between the MAF and SD) and reuse your EEC from the MAF. Since you don't have to worry about an electronically controlled tranny you should be able to get up and running in no time..

 

[miesk5]

Yo Regret,
Some info that you probably don't need because you wrote, "...engine is complete from Y pipe to the intake..."
But perhaps following is missing or damaged/iffy:
Fuel Rail: The 5.0 is a wider engine so the fuel rail is wider. You can get this with the intake from the junkyard. Some people have cut the nylon tubing off the 5.0 fuel rail and used EFI fuel hose to make it wider. miesk5 note, I believe Jeffs Bronco Graveyard or NAPA, etc may have it.
¤
Distributor - the 5.0/5.8 distributors look the same but... The difference between them are the oil pump drive is larger on the 5.8.
"The distributor has a fatter shaft. You can obtain one from a 351W powered FI truck (if you are using FI) or any late 70's/early 80's car using the 351W and a Duraspark system if you are going to build a non-efi car."
&
"Get new motor mounts. If your mounts are questionable already, the additional weight of the 351W will make them fail in a hurry."
&
"The internal balance of a 351W is the same as pre-81 302's (28.2 oz). The 5.0 HO has a 50 oz. unbalance, which means you cannot use the flexplate/flywheel or the harmanic balancer off of an HO engine. You have to get the correct pieces from a dealer/junkyard."
The deck height is higher, which means you need a different intake, since the 351W intake is wider. A 5.0 Upper will bolt to a 351W lower.."
by Mike at fast351.com
°
Flexplates are Different according to ATP, but both 5.0 & 5.8 have 164 teeth and are 14.23" in Diameter.
GL!

 

[TravisITGuy]

ya this is an easy plug/play swap like mentioned by jermil01.. just reuse your 5.0 harness and computer for the 5.8. you will need a 5.8/28oz flexplate for an E4OD.

the Y pipe will for sure be necessary. make sure you have the correct firing order, i believe its the same as your 5.0 was. use this time to replace hoses, battery cables, belts etc.. much easier with the motor out for some of this. new motor mounts

 

[regret]

Yo Regret,
Some info that you probably don't need because you wrote, "...engine is complete from Y pipe to the intake..."
But perhaps following is missing or damaged/iffy:
Fuel Rail: The 5.0 is a wider engine so the fuel rail is wider. You can get this with the intake from the junkyard. Some people have cut the nylon tubing off the 5.0 fuel rail and used EFI fuel hose to make it wider. miesk5 note, I believe Jeffs Bronco Graveyard or NAPA, etc may have it.
¤
Distributor - the 5.0/5.8 distributors look the same but... The difference between them are the oil pump drive is larger on the 5.8.
"The distributor has a fatter shaft. You can obtain one from a 351W powered FI truck (if you are using FI) or any late 70's/early 80's car using the 351W and a Duraspark system if you are going to build a non-efi car."
&
"Get new motor mounts. If your mounts are questionable already, the additional weight of the 351W will make them fail in a hurry."
&
"The internal balance of a 351W is the same as pre-81 302's (28.2 oz). The 5.0 HO has a 50 oz. unbalance, which means you cannot use the flexplate/flywheel or the harmanic balancer off of an HO engine. You have to get the correct pieces from a dealer/junkyard."
The deck height is higher, which means you need a different intake, since the 351W intake is wider. A 5.0 Upper will bolt to a 351W lower.."
by Mike at fast351.com
°
Flexplates are Different according to ATP, but both 5.0 & 5.8 have 164 teeth and are 14.23" in Diameter.
GL!

I'm planning to combine the two engines. My accessories are all really nice so I will likely be swapping my a/c compressor, alternator and nice water pump.

Are the fuel injectors the same for SD vs MAF? I'm getting everything from the exhaust to the airbox if I have to use SD. I think I should be able to make it happen.I really want to retain the MAF.

I should be getting the motor on Thursday. So my plan is to do the oil pan gasket, timing cover, front and rear main, lower intake gaskets. The first thing I'm doing is a compression test. I am aware about the flywheel differences and will be getting one with a pilot bearing today.

I trust the guy pulling the motor and if he finds any oil in the coolant or if I find low compression or anything suspicious in the valley I will do head gaskets as well

 

[regret]

ya this is an easy plug/play swap like mentioned by jermil01.. just reuse your 5.0 harness and computer for the 5.8. you will need a 5.8/28oz flexplate for an E4OD.

the Y pipe will for sure be necessary. make sure you have the correct firing order, i believe its the same as your 5.0 was. use this time to replace hoses, battery cables, belts etc.. much easier with the motor out for some of this. new motor mounts

1. This truck doesn't use a flexplate. I'm going to use the 5.0 computer since as far as I know there aren't and 5.8 MAF computers around.

 

[goingcrazy]

Your MAF computer will run that 5.8 as mentioned by others. Since you swapped a zf already just go to local parts store and get a flywheel for the 5.8 zf.

Make sure you get the Y pipe from the 5.8 because your 5.0 Y pipe won't fit without cutting it and adding a little length to it. 5.8 is a little wider than the 5.0

Replace the motor mounts while it's out as well as the belts and hoses if they have any age to them.

I look forward to seeing your build.

 

[miesk5]

Yo R,
Your 94 5.0 was built with Motocraft CM 5255 Gold or CM 5041 injectors, depending on plant.

1995 F150 5.8 was also built with Motocraft CM 5255 or CM 5041 injectors, depending on plant.

 

[regret]

Thanks miesk. I placed an order for my parts today. Flywheel, pilot bearing, lower intake gaskets, valve covers, oil pan, motor mounts, water pump gasket, timing cover gaskets.

 

[miesk5]

Thanks miesk. I placed an order for my parts today. Flywheel, pilot bearing, lower intake gaskets, valve covers, oil pan, motor mounts, water pump gasket, timing cover gaskets.

Yo Regret,
May as well consider a thermostat.

 

[regret]

Yo Regret,
May as well consider a thermostat.

Totally forgot about those. Will have to add it to the list.

 

[XDAILY]

?

 

[67galax]

@regret , I'm doing something similar to my bronco. Have had the 302 out of for over a year. My original plan was to use the 351 out of my F150, but I found another 351 for a good deal. I decided to upgrade to GT40 heads from a junkyard explorer, and my bronco is OBDII, but otherwise similar. I'll be using the 302 MAF/OBDII harness on the 351, run by a 96 351 computer.

So far, I've replaced the oil pump, pan, gaskets, timing set, and will get around to doing the head and intake gaskets. If you're not sure of mileage or condition, it might not hurt to replace the rear main seal, oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, water pump, and maybe even the core plugs in the block, if they look rusty at all.

 

[regret]

@regret , I'm doing something similar to my bronco. Have had the 302 out of for over a year. My original plan was to use the 351 out of my F150, but I found another 351 for a good deal. I decided to upgrade to GT40 heads from a junkyard explorer, and my bronco is OBDII, but otherwise similar. I'll be using the 302 MAF/OBDII harness on the 351, run by a 96 351 computer.

So far, I've replaced the oil pump, pan, gaskets, timing set, and will get around to doing the head and intake gaskets. If you're not sure of mileage or condition, it might not hurt to replace the rear main seal, oil pump, oil pump drive shaft, water pump, and maybe even the core plugs in the block, if they look rusty at all.

I'm not entertaining the idea of mission creep on this one. I'm not touching anything that oil won't shoot out of. This thing is getting a quick compression test, a seal job then paint. If it lasts 10 months that's a win for me. This truck will be on the road next week, by Monday if it goes well.

If it blows up I'll grab another 500$ motor and do it again. I'm a university student, I have no money but I have time.

 

[dash_cam]

This is the only photo I have of the incident. More to come on the weekend when I see the truck again.

I've done that before! Doh!

Unfortunately I killed my transmission. I hope you don't have a DOA when you get the engine running again.

 

[regret]

I've done that before! Doh!

Unfortunately I killed my transmission. I hope you don't have a DOA when you get the engine running again.

The truck I'm getting the motor out of was gorgeous before the accident. Beautiful paint and a clean engine bay. Before the head on collision anyway. I have a good feeling about it. If it doesn't run they've agreed to give me a different one so all it will cost is labor if it turns out to be a turd.

I might be taking delivery as early as tomorrow