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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi everyone. I have a 94 FSB that I just bought that won't start. When I got it two weeks ago everything was running fine. Then I had it trucked to Florida and now it won't start. I had it running for a short drive around the neighborhood and then turned it off to do an oil change. I then immediately tried to start it up again and it wouldn't crank. I thought it was going to be the battery or battery terminal connections so I checked them first. Here's what happens after cleaning the terminals, making sure they are on correctly, and checking the charge to the battery. I insert the key into the ignition, (all dash lights come on along with the ignition chime) turn the key and hear a click and I lose all power. If I then disconnect the battery and reconnect it, the power comes back on, but I again am unable to start the engine and lose all power again. I am new to this engine but it seems as if a relay has gone bad because it seems to be resetting itself after I disconnect and then reconnect the battery terminals and then blowing when I try to crank the engine.. I checked all of the fuses I could find and they all look fine. I really am at a loss here and could use any advice you may have. :banghead I realize that I put 5.7 in the title to this thread but it's actually a 5.8 engine. New guy making mistakes!
 

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Put a dvm on the battery terminals and have someone crank the key. U probably have a bad cell in the battery. It could also be a bad battery cable.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I actually bought a new battery and put it in with the same results. Then I pulled the battery out of my friends 95 FSB and got the same results again.
 

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Battery cables or connection's
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yeah I checked that. After looking at the terminal connectors again they do look pretty wrenched on and the negative one isn't factory.(although I cleaned them with a terminal brush) I think I'm going to change the cables tomorrow and see if thats it. I'll keep you posted.
 

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You might also check to make sure that the fender mounted starter relay is cleanly, and firmly attached. It grounds through its body. I once had similar problems, when mine got loose. Sometimes she would crank, and other times, just click, or nothing at all.
 

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You might also check to make sure that the fender mounted starter relay is cleanly, and firmly attached. It grounds through its body. I once had similar problems, when mine got loose. Sometimes she would crank, and other times, just click, or nothing at all.
x2
 

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check to make sure the cable on the starter is in good shape and tight. if its even a little loose it will cause this to happen.
 

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Have someone turn the key while you bridge the starter solenoid posts (on the fender wall next to the battery) with a screwdriver. Make sure it has a good handle on it so the current prefers to travel through the screwdriver instead of your body ;)

You'll see a huge spark and hopefully you'll hear the starter cranking while you have it bridged. If this works it means you need a new solenoid.
 

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Have someone turn the key while you bridge the starter solenoid posts (on the fender wall next to the battery) with a screwdriver. Make sure it has a good handle on it so the current prefers to travel through the screwdriver instead of your body ;)

You'll see a huge spark and hopefully you'll hear the starter cranking while you have it bridged. If this works it means you need a new solenoid.
If your losing all power after the click, than I bet 100% that is is a connection problem and not the solenoid. No offense to to you rustyman.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the help everyone! It turned out to be a bad connection to the ground from the negative battery cable. After I changed the starter, (was rusted out anyway ) the solenoid, (only $25 so what the heck) and the new battery, (they had the wrong one in there) I was about to change the ignition control module, (on advice from the guy at Auto Zone) when I remembered that the negative battery terminal wasn't OEM and I wondered why because everything else came from 1994. So I picked up a new terminal just in case. Getting back to my garage I decided to check the negative terminal before tackling the ICM. Went to unbolt it from the cable and discovered it was only hand tightened, and almost completely rusted through. Changed to the new terminal and my Bronco is running again! Moral of the story..don't overthink the problem and listen to the advice of evryone on FSB!! Thanks all!
 
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