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US, 89, 5.8,C6, 1356 BW (manual), 5 Bolt Hub (automatic) No modes like to keep it or
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am putting back on my cap on my hub and it seems like its not seating all the way to the rotor.
I have a small gap and part of the locking assembly is showing I cant remember what it looked like before but I fee like this is not correct. I do have the rubber seal installed.

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161028
 

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Premium Member
US, 89, 5.8,C6, 1356 BW (manual), 5 Bolt Hub (automatic) No modes like to keep it or
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
So update after getting the cap on I gave it a quick pull and the cap and assembly all came out? Its like the assembly won't get full seated? It happened in both sides. I torqued the inner but to specs backed it off and retorqued. Then added the washer and lined it up with the spindle and pushed flush to the inner nut. The little tab on the lock but seemed to be against the washer. Then installed the outer lock but. Then the spacer and finally the C clip.
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What am I missing. I followed the same video I used to take apart the 4 wheel drive locking mechanism that showed how to put it together.
It seems like I am just missing a few mm somewhere?
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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15,276 Posts
Those are factory hubs? Did you make sure to install the outer hub ring as well. The entire assembly definitely won't pull out when that's done..I know with the Warns, the caps will "float" a bit on the end of the hub. Meaning there is just a small amount of play..As long as the o-ring on the lockout seats inside the body of the hub and you can engage and disengage them you're fine.
 

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26,353 Posts
Yo,
As LTC BILL KILGORE advised.

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5-Screw Auto Hub Lock
These use a single thick splined shim between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place.
Before the C-washer can be installed, the stub shaft must be pushed fully outboard against the inner spindle seal by reaching behind the steering knuckle to the u-joint. Sone pry at the u joint"
Removal in an 89 (part of his ball joint replacement)
Source: by Brahma502
 

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Premium Member
US, 89, 5.8,C6, 1356 BW (manual), 5 Bolt Hub (automatic) No modes like to keep it or
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
jermil01,
Those are factory hubs? Did you make sure to install the outer hub ring as well
Yes factory, outer hub ring, the one that you use needle nose plyers to get out off of the body assembly? Yes if that is the part you are talking about.

miesk5,
These use a single thick splined shim between the C-clip & the spindle to hold the axle stub in place.
Is that the splined spacer 38458? If so yes that's in prior to the C-clip.
Question, I noticed about 2 inches in on the splined shaft there is an indent that runs around the shaft (not the indent at the end off the splined shaft) from the right up the C-clip /washer is supposed to fit in it. If shaft wont come any farther outboard to get me the extra length to put in the C-clip/washer, is it a locknut issue (i.e. pull them back out an re-install)?

I do have a question about the inner lock nut and locker washer pin alignment.
1.With Auto hubs inner lock nut and locker washer need to be aligned, the pub does not mention it for Broncos, but does for F-150/250/350?
2. If it does need to be aligned it says rotate inner locknut, do I rotate the hub? Or the lock nut its self, if so do I back it off (reducing the torque ft/lbs) or tighten more (increase torque ft/lbs) to get the pin alignment?
 

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3,966 Posts
I gave it a quick pull and the cap and assembly all came out
you did not have it installed correctly.

the hub lock should be held in place with a c-clip on the axle shaft and then another lock ring in the wheel hub itself. if you have trouble with the c-clip on the axle, you can use a screwdriver on the back side and use it to push the axle through the hub.
 

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US, 89, 5.8,C6, 1356 BW (manual), 5 Bolt Hub (automatic) No modes like to keep it or
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Dash_cam,
the hub lock should be held in place with a c-clip on the axle shaft and then another lock ring in the wheel hub itself.
Getting a little confused with the verbiage.

Let me just make sure I am doing this correctly:
1.Install inner lock nut tighten to 50 ftlbs and rotate hub to seat bearing, then back off 180 deg then re-torque to 20 ftlbs
2. Install lock washer with key into spindle grove and line up the pin with washer grove.
3. Install outer lock nut to 150 ftlbs.
4. Install splined spacer.
4. Install C-clip into grove that sits just in front of splined spacer (NOT the grove at the tip of spindle)
5. Install hub lock with lock ring/ retainer ring (the thing you use needle nose plyers to squeeze the lock ring as you slide the hub lock in.
6. Install seal bridge retainer
7. Install cap with spring and screws.
Am I missing anything?
 

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Premium Member
US, 89, 5.8,C6, 1356 BW (manual), 5 Bolt Hub (automatic) No modes like to keep it or
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
So I was able to check the backside of the hub (since its daytime now) the shaft/rubber seal is not seated all the way to the knuckle. Tried putting a screw drive and small pry bar behind it to slide it in to the knuckle and wont move. It can move up and down and back, but not flush with the knuckle. Not sure if I have to take the spindle off to pull it up flush then re-attach the spindle then hub etc...?
 

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Premium Member
US, 89, 5.8,C6, 1356 BW (manual), 5 Bolt Hub (automatic) No modes like to keep it or
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279 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Well I got it together. Had to breakdown both sides down to the spindle. Then pull the shaft flush with the knuckle and hold it while I put the spindle back on. Just couldn't pry the shaft outboard with the spindle on for some reason. But got really good putting in and taking off my hubs. Got it down to where I can do one side in under 5 minutes.
 
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