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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a 90 full size which a bought a few months ago and I have just switched out the rims for something similar to original. I have an issue with my passenger side lug posts. 2 of the 5 are loose. They dont seem to want to bite on the back end and I cant seem to tighten them down, they are just spinning. (posts) I am using closed end nuts and I thought maybe I could try open end to grab hold of the lug post to stop it spinning? I really dont want to pull things apart being its got the 4wd locks just to get to the back of the post. I have no idea what these posts look like on the back end, but I know they aren't broken. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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they are splined and press fitted into place. You're gonna have to pull your hub off, it's not that bad though. You'll need the special socket to get the big funky nut off of the axle. It's not that bad, but you'll need a torque wrench to get it your wheel bearings back on correctly.

They are pretty easy to drive out with a big ass hammer, then you put the new studs on and pull then into place using a lug wrench (preferably an impact gun) and a spacer so they pull themselves into place. If they are spinning then you need to replace them because they aren't holding.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
By the time I got things up in the air today I found all 5 studs were loose. Just barely got the 5th nut off since the stud was spinning.

Well.... made my 2nd trip to autozone. The special socket I got wasnt the right fit. Its got all years and models printed on the tag, yet it is to big. No biggy. My big problem is with the studs. They are in perfect shape. I can actually slide the new lug through the back of the rotor and they fall right into place, except they spin like the old ones.

From what I gathered and found was the studs are splined to go with the hub. I looked at a new rotor at the shop with new studs and they sit snug in the rotor but the splines are meant to mate with the hub. So... my hub was all worn. I couldnt grab a new hub at the store, couldnt even get one, so my only option I could think of was to spot weld the end of the stud to the rotor. Wasnt happy about this. After I pulled everything apart I found that I had to press the hub from the rotor. Not happy. Just dont have the patience or time for all this. Just frustrating knowing I would need to then go to someone who welds and do my very best to keep any garbage out of the bearings.

So... in a nut shell.... call me crazy but I cut a beer can into 1/2 inch wide strips. I then wrapped each stud with the strip and pulled it through using a lug wrench. Stayed great. Pulled in great. Doesn't spin. Does what I need it to do. I'm laughing now, but happy its done. Next time around I found I could even do this by just removing the rotor and slipping the studs through the back.
 

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thats purty good for a temporary fix but that soft aluminum from the can aint gona hold long. do you have a copy of the haynes manual for the 81-96 bronco and f150? it has a full break down on how to tear the front end down its purty much child proof also did you remove the small snap ring on the inside lip of the hub before trying to remove the hub?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thats purty good for a temporary fix but that soft aluminum from the can aint gona hold long. do you have a copy of the haynes manual for the 81-96 bronco and f150? it has a full break down on how to tear the front end down its purty much child proof also did you remove the small snap ring on the inside lip of the hub before trying to remove the hub?

Hi, I got both the Haynes and Chilton manual which are great. The books are real helpful and make alot of the fixes pretty easy. Found a small snap ring around the axle and a larger tang to hold another part in. What I dont have is all the tools I need to projects like this like the socket to pull the nut of the axle. Then... you throw 20 years of rust and corrosion from the north into the picture and stuff doesn't move as free as hoped. I mean this nuts were so tight on the studs that the studs broke free from the hub before they broke free from the nuts. Talk about corrosion.

So, in regards to the alum not holding, yea right now I agree a quick fix, but what are my options? cant find a new hub and its a real pain to have it pulled again and have the studs tack welded onto the rotor. Given this was my first time pulling the rotor on the truck. Pulling them on my previous focus was super easy.

Call me crazy, but I think it is a real crap design that the studs come through the rotor and press into the hub with the splines. After replacing rotors a few times around, your hubs will be useless from the pulling a pressing. Prob what happened with this truck. This typical?

PS.. blew a rad hose last night, but that was a quick fix that I got to this morning before I got to the studs. Does it ever stop?
 

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You need a new hub. Try a junk yard for one. Your trick may work, I have tacked the back of the stud to the rotor for temporary fix. But you will have to do it just about everytime you remove the lugs. I also wouldn't do this with more than one lug stud. If all five are bad, I'd be looking for a new hub and change as soon as time allows.

tim
 

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yeah, bummer man. Good deal on the quick fix though. I'd still be a little worried about it, but you gotta do what you can to get around.

I guess you could really weld the hell out of them, then if you needed to grind them down for clearance issues if there were any you could do that. If you boogered up a stud you'd be screwed, but since you need a new hub anyhow...

I agree it is a ridiculous design, to change a rotor you've gotta go through that whole mess.

I say as soon as you can pull it off again and weld the crap out of them... but a new hub (or new used hub) would be ideal, just remember those stupid little studs are what hold your tire on the truck, and welding will ruin any type of hardening that was done to them.
 

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just a thought about the welding you have to be real carfule doing this heating metal can cause it to warp so welding the hell out of it is a bad idear have you ever had a warped roter and felt the vibration? well thats what you will have but becaus its you hub directly you will trash your berings and seals quicker and potentaly your axles and if bad enough it can trash your diff as well. this is generaly not a problem thought becaus the u joints in on the axle will take away some of the vibrations. so if you do take the Miller aproach just small tacs
 

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just a thought about the welding you have to be real carfule doing this heating metal can cause it to warp so welding the hell out of it is a bad idear have you ever had a warped roter and felt the vibration? well thats what you will have but becaus its you hub directly you will trash your berings and seals quicker and potentaly your axles and if bad enough it can trash your diff as well. this is generaly not a problem thought becaus the u joints in on the axle will take away some of the vibrations. so if you do take the Miller aproach just small tacs
you're welding to the hub, not the rotor... a piece of metal that big won't warp with welding though, it will ruin any hardening that was done to the studs however.

anyhow, the best bet is a "new" hub for the fella.
 

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rodger tracking and on the hub where the stud press in is 7/16 in plate and if you over heat this by welding you can warp it once this happens your hub that this plate is fuesed to spins and will caus vibration this could also caus the roter to not sit flush which will cause more vibration which is why these piece are press in instead of welded on but you know just like you said my ASE certs dont mean any thing here
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Im happy to see all the responses. FSB is the first forum I have ever gotten involved with and I just love all the input.

So... I still think crap design. Based on what I look at in haynes book my front in labeled from outside to inside as "Hub" then "Rotor" so the studs run through the inside of the rotor and are pressed or pulled into the hub. Hub as in the part that has the 4wd manual lock on it/ in it.

The issue I got is if I come accross one in the junk yard whose to say its got life left. Might feel good if by chance I bring a stud to check it, but I mean christ, if you change out your rotors with your pads every 50-75 miles your hubs would be in real bad shape from pressing out and pressing in new studs with each replacement of rotors. I really wish these bad boy studs were designed to be pressed in and out of the rotors .

So the welding.... It was tack welded before on one stud so it had been done in the past. Shows the hub had some pressing and pulling. What concerns me also is these bearings arent seals so while I'm pulling apart everything I need to be 100% on keeping it clean. Once I saw the hub was pressed into to the rotor some how with the loose bearing I called it quits on the welding. I didnt want have the hub pressed from the rotor and didnt want to have the welder add and unwanted debris to the bearing or anywhere near it. Also.... with the welding.... prob welding two types of metal..... so my hold may be week... as the previous weld attempt..

Im just still shaken my head over it. Pressed studs spinning before the nut actually spins off the stud.

I'm cracken open another cold one. Sorry for the long post and thanks for all the feedback. Its great .
 

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Search around for oversized knurled wheel studs. If you cant find them let me know, i will have a new buisness plan. Most stores should carry some type of stud, it may not match the others as thread pitch, just by the nuts to go with it.
 

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New to you junkyard parts would be way better than a bastardized truck that has two different sizes of lugnuts. My 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Tony: Thanks for the link. This is perfect. Decent price and i would get both the rotor and the hub. Awesome. Def keep this one handy for future replacement of the rotors and if anything comes up with the studs slipping from my beer can job. The only question is do they have them for 90 Bronco? Did a quick search and didnt find anything for 90. The one you found was for 95. Did some searching and didnt come up with anything.

dsmer: When I was at autozone, they said they didnt have anything different then what I had stock. I also went next store to Mavis Tire and asked them about studs... they said they get theirs from autozone.

I thought that even if I could find a stud that had a rectangular head instead of round it would lock itself out against the sidewall of the rotor. The round one is so close to the wall if you had a rectangular one, if there was a such thing, it would lock.
 
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