Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

121 - 140 of 147 Posts

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #121
I had so much fun soldering wires that I decided to do one more harness extension. The (I assume) 4WD High and Low indicator harness wasn’t long enough, so I made an extension for that.

166950


166951


curious thing is that I started the bronco to test the lights, and they didn’t work. The transfer case is original to the bronco, and they worked before. The transmission harness I’m using came from a 4WD truck. I’ll have to look into that.

Also, the check engine light came on while I was doing that. So I hooked up the scanner and the only codes were transmission related. Hopefully after driving it a while nothing else shows up.

Wondering if there’s any way to beat those other codes. There never was an OBDII 5.8/ZF bronco, so I’m using the 5.8/E4OD computer.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #122
I played the game of musical belts/pulleys/accessories again today.

I tried swapping the big smog-delete idler from the red truck, no change.

put the 302 belt back on, bypassing the power steering, still had the squeal. Swapped it around so I was now bypassing the AC, and it was quiet.

I’d replaced the AC compressor with an AC-delete idler before and it still made noise. Maybe that idler was bad too?

So I left the 302 belt on, bypassing the AC compressor and went for a drive. All quiet.

I assume I can replace the compressor clutch/bearing? I’d rather do that than replace the whole compressor.

Then again, I might start the truck tomorrow and hear the squealing again.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #123
I also took care of a couple other things.

When I got the new driveshaft, I was in a hurry to drive the Bronco, so I installed it right out of the box. It was bare metal, so I decided to pull it off and paint it. It also had a ‘seal collar’ on the lower, slip joint end. I don’t like the ideal of bare metal potentially developing rust, then compressing and wearing out that seal. So I pulled the shaft apart, removed the ‘seal collar, and installed an accordion-style boot from another driveshaft I had. Then I primed and painted it.

I also bought a metric 12x1.75mm tap while I was out this morning so I could chase the threads in the rear axle flange. I had a hell of a time getting the bolts in the first time, and wanted to make sure I had good clean threads to work with this time.

167064
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #124
I drove it to work today with the AC compressor bypassed and never heard a squeak/squeal. Guess I need to replace the bearing in the clutch (or the clutch itself.

I also filled up the gas tank again. I averaged right at 10mpg, which is what I was getting with the tired 302/E4OD. Now, with the bigger 351, but (assuming more efficient) ZF5, I thought I might do better. I’ve been driving fairly aggressively, feeling the new power of the bigger motor, and enjoying the fun of shifting. Maybe next tank will improve a bit. There was also a fair amount of just idling in the driveway as I searched for the noises in my accessories.
 

·
ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
Joined
·
8,681 Posts
Hey, what codes does it throw for the E4OD missing, and do they trigger a CEL? I am thinking im gonna do this swap to my 96 as well, and im trying to get this all sorted out now. Cant pass inspection here if the CEL is on.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #128
I’ve probably driven the bronco 500 miles since I put in the engine and transmission. Ever since I bought it back to life after its two year hibernation, the brake pedal has been low. Not really low at rest, but when you push it, it goes almost to the floor before it starts to work. I originally thought that somehow the pushrod got shorter, or something to do with the pedal swap was the reason. I pulled the master cylinder and adjusted the rod a touch, and it seemed to make the brakes engage maybe 1/2” sooner. Then I thought that maybe the booster itself had gone bad, so I swapped it with the one in the F150. Still low, and the F150s was still normal.
At this point I started adding brake fluid. My master cylinder is kinda cloudy and I can’t really see the line. But in the two years it was sitting, I never saw a pool or spot under it to make me think I had a brake fluid leak. But after pouring an entire small bottle of fluid in, I started to pump the brakes. It seemed like the pedal was firming up. Great! Problem solved. Then I turned the bronco off and noticed a pool of fluid forming on the ground along the driver’s frame rail about halfway back. Lovely. The longest line on the truck had one rusty spot and decided to spring a leak.
I pulled the line off and measured it. Then I went to town and bought enough sections and unions to hopefully get it fixed. I laid the new ones along the old and tried to match the bends. I’ll see how well I did this afternoon.

167694
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I pulled the serp belt and put the 302 one in such a way as to bypass the idler pulley and the power steering pump like I did in an earlier post. The noise went away, so I replaced the idler pulley and put the 351 belt back on. Noise was gone. That made me very happy as I didn’t want to swap power steering setups, with it being this hot out.

I then drove it to town to buy some things. First time driving it under pressure. Hoping I wouldnt kill it at a stop light. I need to replace the starter, as it’s about a 70/30 chance of it working, without me having to get out and tap on it. Sometimes all I get is a clunk.

transmission probably needs a rebuild, or at least the 2-3 synchro replaced. If I shift too fast from 2 to 3, it wants to grind. If I give the shifter a side-to-side wiggle, it goes into 3rd just fine.

also has some whining noise cruising along in 2nd.

Ill try changing out the fluid and adding an extra quart like some people recommend doing.

I’d only driven the parts truck that the transmission came from about 50 yards, so never got the chance to wring it out.
My truck also has a little grinding going from 2-3. If I get it going past 2000rpm in second or double clutch and shift very slow it doesn't complain at all going into third. Mine's been like this for years. I am just going to live with it. Nice bronco by the way. Similar to mine as I went from E4OD/302 as well although I also had an intermediate step where I exploded the 302 and had to do a second swap from ZF5/302 to ZF5/351. The 351 is better for sure though my mpg dropped 25% with the bigger motor
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #130
My truck also has a little grinding going from 2-3. If I get it going past 2000rpm in second or double clutch and shift very slow it doesn't complain at all going into third. Mine's been like this for years. I am just going to live with it.
I've noticed that if I wind 2nd up to about 4000 rpm, I still have to shift into 3rd at around 2000rpm to avoid the grind. Really, if if just push the shifter with light pressure, as the engine is coasting down while the clutch is in, it seems to ‘fall in’ about then without the grind.

which is kind of annoying, since the 2-3 shift gets used the most, and it’s the most important one if you’re trying to accelerate in a hurry.

for the last two tanks of gas, I’ve been getting 10mpg, about the same as the 302/E4OD combo. I would have expected better, but I’m still having fun enjoying the new power of the 351.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
117 Posts
I've noticed that if I wind 2nd up to about 4000 rpm, I still have to shift into 3rd at around 2000rpm to avoid the grind. Really, if if just push the shifter with light pressure, as the engine is coasting down while the clutch is in, it seems to ‘fall in’ about then without the grind.

which is kind of annoying, since the 2-3 shift gets used the most, and it’s the most important one if you’re trying to accelerate in a hurry.

for the last two tanks of gas, I’ve been getting 10mpg, about the same as the 302/E4OD combo. I would have expected better, but I’m still having fun enjoying the new power of the 351.
Hmm. If I hammer the gas and get it spinning anything above 2k and slam it into third it doesn't complain. Mine complains when I'm putting around trying to shift at 1500 to save gas. These transmissions are pretty notchy and probably lived hard lives so it makes a bit of sense they'd be a little quirky. I was running a worn out 302/ZF5 and getting 13mpg with 35s. Once I got the 351 in there the best I could do is 11mpg one time, same tires.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
Well, I’m happy to report that the three tubes I bought were just about perfect for the length I needed to do my brake lines. Put them in and had my oldest son pump the pedal to bleed the system. Seems to be working fine now, and the pedal feels like it should.

I wonder if I’ve been driving around for the last few weeks without my rear brakes working at all?
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #133
After about 1000 miles, I changed the oil that I’ve had on it since I put the engine in. I don’t recall exactly what oil I used then, but I put in 6 qts of the same pennzoil full synthetic that I use in my wife’s traverse. It uses 5W-30, and I’m supposed to be using 10W-30, but figured with the cooler temps coming up, I’d be Ok.

I had to retighten the hose clamps on the lower hose, as there was a small seepage that left a spot on the driveway.

I did that a few days ago, and it seemed to take care of it.

however, I noticed a couple quarter-sized oil spots that must have just started in the last day or two. Appears to be my rear main seal (which I replaced during the overhaul), as its dripping from the hole in the lower transmission where I can see my clutch. Looks like I should have put the repair sleeve on the crank...

Seems odd that it waited until the oil change to start leaking. Maybe if I used a thicker oil next time it won’t be as bad. It also happened to be the first 20-something degree night this week. I feared it was my clutch slave when I first saw the spots, but after putting my finger on the drop hanging from the trans, it’s definitely oil.

Awesome.
 

·
Registered
'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
Joined
·
2,702 Posts
Synthetic oil has a reputation for leaking when added to older engines, although that's usually a matter of old seals which may not be applicable in your case. I would switch back to regular oil before doing a second RMS.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #135
I used Mobil1 in the bronco and the F150 for the last several years. Never had any oil leaks in the 302 (bronco before swap). All seals and gaskets on the 351 are new as I had everything taken apart.

With the amount of noise the ZF makes, and the bad feeling I have about the plastic slave cylinder it has, I figured that I’d be taking it back out again at some point, maybe next summer. I can live with the slow drip until then. I will probably go up in oil weight, and maybe go back to Mobil1 rather than using the pennzoil that the traverse uses, and see what that does.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #136
I crawled around underneath the bronco for a bit this afternoon. I finally put my skid plate back on. While I was under there, I noticed two things: first, was that the old O2 sensor that I had in the pipe acting as a plug had fallen out. That explains the slightly louder exhaust I’ve been noticing. Second was that one of the u-bolts holding my front driveshaft to the output of the transfer case was missing its two nuts. Only explanation I have for that is that I never put them on in the first place. Must have forgotten them. I put some on. Good thing I spotted that before I tried using it. I looked around for an old sensor to plug the hole in the exhaust, but couldn’t find one. I’m sure some place in town sells plugs.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #137
I looked around for an old sensor to plug the hole in the exhaust, but couldn’t find one. I’m sure some place in town sells plugs.
Guess not. Nothing in town. I’ll get an old sensor at the junkyard tomorrow.

Since I’ve put the larger motor in and been driving it, I’ve noticed my camber is off. I held a 2x4 level across the tire at the hub and checked with an angle indicator. My passenger side was about 87* and the drivers side was around 88-89*

169823


169824


I decided to mess with the passenger side first, because it’s worse, and the axle shaft got put back in out of phase years ago when I did the lift. I pulled everything off and fixed the axle relatively easy.

Before:

169825


With everything off the knuckle, I checked the angle again. It was at 90*, so I figured I need to get it out to 92ish for it to be back at 90 when it was down on the tire’s weight. This side had a 2 1/2* busing in it before when I did the lift and had positive camber. I found a 1/2* old alignment busing in the bolt bin and put it and and got out to 92*.

I had to go to town and get a new inner wheel bearing since the old one was junk. Since it’s dark now, I’ll have to put it back tomorrow.
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #138
My indicator may be wrong. It was cheap, from harbor freight. The wheel looks vertical, maybe even a bit positive camber, but the gauge says it’s still at 89 (negative). The drivers side wheel that I didn’t touch still looks negative, but the gauge shows 90.

I went for a drive and for the first time in years, it goes straight and doesn’t pull to the left.

I’m not sure if I want to pull the passenger side apart again and try to get it looking better, or mess with the drivers side now.

Or I could just leave them alone for now.

Then I have these new-to-me superduty radius arms I could begin messing with...
 

·
Premium Member
1996 Bronco XLT 351W/ZF5, 1996 F150 XLT 351W/E4OD D44 Leaf Sprung SAS
Joined
·
1,465 Posts
Discussion Starter #140 (Edited)
Since I have to burn vacation before the end of the year, I’m taking a three day weekend and figured I'd try to do the superduty radius arms. Thought I’d start with the driver’s side, since I need to tweak the camber while I’m in there.

I started by measuring my droop. I measured from the top of the tire to the top of the wheel arch while it was at ride height, sitting on the ground. Then I jacked it up from the cross member. Looks like the tire was starting to leave the ground about 3 1/4” later. Doesn’t seem like much, but it is what it is.

170273


170274


Then I started dismantling.

170275


After I got the old arm and bracket off, I tried to put the new arm on, but it was hitting the front shock mount, so I had to pull that off too. I’ll need to grind off some material if I decide to proceed. Than little turn down was hitting the other bracket that it’s supposed to slide in under.

170276


Here it is in place. I’ll need to get weight in the axle beam to see how ‘off’ the pionion angle is and decide if I’ll need to make a drop bracket, or angle the arm up my moving the mounting holes. Maybe I’ll luck out and it will be perfect when it’s at ride height, but I’m not holding my breath.
 

Attachments

121 - 140 of 147 Posts
Top