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Discussion Starter · #161 ·
Well, part of my problem was massive toe in. Although I measured front wheel/axle location, front to back, both sides, before and after I swapped arms, my front tires were really toed in. I must have pushed the arms slightly forward.

My driveway alignment consisted of putting a steel folding chair at each wheel with the 2x4 laying on it, touching the tires front to back. I laid two tape measures across and found I was about 3” wider across the back than the front. Really. So I adjusted the sleeve out so they were within 1/4”.

Two things I realized after doing this:
1. Always adjust the passenger side sleeve first to get the steering wheel straight, then adjust the driver’s side for toe. I did the driver’s side and got the toe right, only to find my steering wheel is now turned about 45* to the right. I’ll live with that until I fix...
2. My steering linkage (inner and outer tie rods, both sides) needs to be replaced. It’s probably the original stock parts and they’re worn out. Since owning this thing, lifting it from stock to 6” higher, and doing the tie rod flip, I’ve always kept the stock linkages. Time to upgrade. I just ordered the ‘ambulance package’ of larger parts from rockauto. We’ll see if they arrive before the weekend.

Once I fixed to toe and drove it, I realized the camber wasn’t that bad. I again laid some 2x4s against the sidewall of the tire and put a level on it. Bubble was between the lines, ever so slightly to the negative side, so I’ll leave it alone for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #162 ·
I realized that I didn’t add very many pictures of the radius arm install. Nothing really interesting to show, other than the profile of it finished, on its tires. I thought that with the size of these things being so much bigger than the stock ones, they’d look silly big, but they’re not too bad.

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Discussion Starter · #163 · (Edited)
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With all my steering parts having arrived yesterday, I set out to replace all the tie rods.

With the toe close to good, I made sure the truck was pointed straight, then removed all the linkage with the truck sitting on its weight. My thoughts where were that, if it’s going straight now, and I adjust the rods to simply ‘drop in’ where the old ones came out, I’ll be ok. And it was. Here are some pics. I ordered mostly Moog parts, mostly because the major inner tie rod appeared to be only available from them. The only non-moog part was the passenger side outer tie rod end. See below, most parts were made in the good ‘ol USA.

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Discussion Starter · #164 ·
One thing I would do differently is to order the outer tie rods from the E350 and not the F250 4X4. Difference is that the van ends are more straight. F250 ones are angled up, I assume, to make up for the steering angle of the 4X4.

Since I’ve already done the TRE flip, it put my outer tie rod ends at a steep angle. I don’t plan on swapping them soon, and will let them ride as is.

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This odd angle also means that I have to remove the tires to get access to the grease zerks

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
Here are a couple of pictures showing the thickness difference between the ‘ambulance’ parts and the stock bronco ones

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One screwup I did make was to drop the big inner tie rod and cut the boot. I’ll order a new one and get it replaced before too long.

Rereading my post, I noticed that some of my pictures are flagged. WTF, they’re car parts.
 

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Rereading my post, I noticed that some of my pictures are flagged. WTF, they’re car parts.

i've seen that a couple times in other threads. i'm not sure what they're searching to identify sensitive content but it's not 100%
 

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Discussion Starter · #168 ·
I spent about 4 hours longer than I should have replacing the power steering pump today. I had swapped pumps/brackets last year when I was trying to eliminate a squeaking sound. The pump that I put in didn’t really do much at low rpms. I lived with it until I had a beautiful Saturday to put the other one back in. But then I cross threaded the hose into the back of the Saginaw, so I went to autozone and bought the correct duralast hose for a Saginaw and 4-bolt steering box. Once I got home and tired to install it, I lost the o-ring on the steering box end. Why not use the one from the old hose? I lost it too. So back to town to pick up a handful of o-rings. Finally got it back together after taking waaaay longer than it should have. Good news is that it now steers effortlessly at idle. I also put the correct belt back on and looped it around the AC compressor, since I replaced the squeaky pulley bearing a while back.

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Discussion Starter · #169 ·
My replacement Saginaw leaks. Looks like the seal behind the pulley. I ordered a rebuild kit to fix the one I took off, planning to use it on the 91. I guess I’ll need to order another one, so I can put this one back on the 96, and rebuild the one I take off.
Here are some pics of the process. I’m not sure how anyone would do this without an arbor press.

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Discussion Starter · #170 ·
Since it’s not the weekend yet, and I was a little bored the other day, I decided to start another small project.
When I was making some videos for the FOTM contest, I noticed a clack clack clack when I was in 4Lo. Not all the time, but sometimes after I’d ‘gotten on it’ and I began to fear that my oil pump had started spinning.
Since I daily drive my bronco, I figured the best thing to do was find another BW1356 and do a fast swap. Then I remembered that I have an older BW1356 that came with a transmission that I already have in the garage. Problem is that its for a truck with a slip yoke. Well, it’s not a huge problem, because a while back, I found a messed up bronco 1356 in the junkyard and took the bronco specific parts off of it for just such a situation as I have now.
I figured if I’m going to be opening up this transfer case to swap output shafts, I may as well replace some parts, so I ordered an overhaul kit for rockauto.
Here are some pics of the original case, and after I started taking it apart. A sharp eye will notice that this 1356 is set up for a speedo cable, which I don't need, however its in the tailshaft extension that will be replaced. Also, there’s a PTO cover that I really don’t need, or won’t use, but it’s a feature that my old one didn’t have.

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Discussion Starter · #171 ·
Well, I put the rebuilt Saginaw back in the bronco. I wiped down the crossmember and everything that was covered with ATF, so hopefully when I come home from work tomorrow, I’ll be able to park it and not find a quarter sized spot on my driveway Tuesday morning.

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Now I’ll order a rebuild kit for the one I pulled so I can put a good one in the 91.
 

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Discussion Starter · #172 ·
And then I got back to work on the 1356 rebuild/conversion. I found a write up on here and followed until I got to the point of needing a seal puller to remove the seal over the planetary/carrier retaining ring, so I can replace all the bearings with the new ones from my kit.
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Discussion Starter · #173 ·
There was still time to work, so after supper, I went back out and managed to get that seal out, then spent another 10 minutes getting the spring/retainer ring off the input shaft so I could remove the carrier/planetary. I got it out and scrubbed on the case a while with a little wire brush. There’s only one more clip I need to remove to get the shift lever out, then I’ll be able to give it a real scrubbing and put it all back together again.

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Discussion Starter · #174 ·
Wouldn’t you know it, I went outside to leave for work this morning and found a spot of ATF under the bronco about the size of a medium dinner plate. Awesome. Looks like maybe the seal where the high pressure hose exits the pump isn’t doing it’s job.

I said ‘F it’ and ordered a reman from orielly, only because they had one in stock and I can’t be leaking fluid all over the parking lot at work. Monday.

Not sure what I would have done if I’d noticed the leak yesterday-put the old one back on (smaller leak) or stolen the one off the F150.
 

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Discussion Starter · #175 ·
Reman pump installed. I wiped everything down the best I could, but residual fluid is still leaking off the crossmember, TTB housing, and who knows what else. I put a clean paper towel under the pump so I'll know if it leaks tomorrow, or if the spot on the driveway is just the bronco shedding its excess frame lube. Hardest part of the whole ordeal (other than wasting a quart+ of ATF each time) is swapping pulleys. I'm glad I bought the puller from Harbor Freight a few weeks ago. Not bad for $20. Maybe I'll start taking the puller to the junkyard with me and harvest some pulleys. Maybe even the brackets. This whole time, I've been pulling the bracket and taking the pump and pulley home with me as a unit. Cost is usually $30-35 depending on the desk lady's mood. Maybe just the bracket will be $10?
 

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Discussion Starter · #176 ·
Cleaned up the BW1356 case parts and started putting it back together. Also welded a bolt to the pump arm. Got it to the point I need to RTV the cases, but couldn’t find the tube I just bought. But I brought it inside so it’s not too cool. It has been on the back porch, and it’s getting cooler at night.

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Very nice documentation
 
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Discussion Starter · #178 ·
Last weekend I was fooling around and jumped the bronco a few times. I think I killed what was left of my original ball joints. Death wobble happened once after I hit a bump in town on Monday, so I ordered new. I’m guessing they won’t arrive by tomorrow, so they’ll probably get installed next weekend.
I’m considering taking the 4.56 geared D44 from the 91 that doesn’t run (and the 8.8) to give this bronco the gearing it needs for 35s. Kind of a redo of the front end while I have it apart anyway.
I did decide to put on the Monroe front shocks that were on before I did the radius arms back in to hopefully stiffen the ride up a bit as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #179 ·
Since I have all new wheel bearings and ball joints ready to swap in, I figured I’d upgrade my gears. But I'm cheap, remember. The non running 91 had 4.56 rear gears, and I assumed 4.56 fronts. If I’m going to be tearing down my front axle anyway, why not upgrade to the ratio that best works with my 35” tires?
I decided to remove the front chunk from the 91 today thinking I’d put it in the 96 when I did the rest of the work. Previous owner had other ideas. When I pulled the differential off, I’d looked like someone had Mickey moused the bearing shims. It was actually sticking out like this when I dropped it. Not gonna run em like this.
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Discussion Starter · #180 · (Edited)
I took the day off today for no other reason than I have plenty to use before the end of the year. Figured I’d start on my ball joints. Around 11am I made it outside. Everything on the driver’s side came apart fairly easy. Even the knuckle fell off without too much fuss after I smacked my hand with the hammer.

I was able to free the old ball joints from the knuckle. Bottom using the arbor press and the top using a big bar as a punch and splitting maul as a hammer. New ones went in with the arbor press and a section of tubing as the spacer.

Everything was going well until it came time to put the big seal on the back of the hub/rotor. The ones I ordered were a little too big where they enter the hub. Not sure how I ended up with the wrong ones. So I put everything away and wrapped the exposed spindle with a big trash bag so it’s protected from moisture until probably Saturday when I’ll be around and the stores are open.
Hopefully the passenger side comes apart just as easy.

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