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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Last weekend I bought a 1991 Eddie Bauer. 5.0 / E4OD. Known issues were that the transmission was bad and that it had lots o rust.

It was originally listed as 'a project' on craigslist for $1000. Over several months of (I assume) no interested buyers, it gradually decreased in price down to $800, then to $600. I went and looked at it, and figured I'd offer even less. I did, and he accepted my $400 offer.

My oldest kid just turned 16, and while not in a rush to get his license (still doesn't have his learner's permit), has expressed some interest in a truck. In this order, least to most, his grandpa's 1997 F150, my rusty red 1996 F150, or a bronco. I pick him up from school in my 96 bronco and he gets compliments from other kids. Might be why he wants one for himself.

Anyway, here are some pics of it getting unloaded into the back yard. If you notice, the tires are wider than the fenders of my dad's trailer. Getting it on was a chore, and I had to steer it up over one of them, causing it to partially collapse. The guy that helped me load it said, "Didn't you measure the trailer?". No. No, I didn't. Assumed it was wide enough, as most 'car size' trailers should be. Getting it off, I used some 'oil change ramps' to get it over without doing more damage. I used the winch and the F150 to pull it off slowly.

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I told my son from the start, that if this thing is beyond repair, we'll scrap it. He seemed OK with that.

I asked the lady at the junkyard how much they were paying for cars. She said $175 a gross ton. I assume that I could haul this thing off and at least break even.

But I want to get the engine started. People will buy a running engine moreso than one that doesn't. Also, the interior is nice and I could probably part that out.

After reconnecting the unhooked shift linkage, and putting in the battery from my F150, I was able to get it to crank. Shooting starting fluid in the intake allowed it to run briefly. There's some metal on metal sound that I hope is the 'bad' transmission.

I have both a ZF5 and an NP435 (and pedals, instrument panel, etc) to convert this to manual if I can't easily get the automatic running.

I need to pull the rearend cover and see if they upgraded the gears. I'm guessing not, since the rear is lifted with blocks. Front is a Superlift 6" with drop radius arm brackets. Its wearing some mystery 15x10 aluminum wheels. Transfer case is auto, hubs were replaced with some brand I've never heard of.

If I can do some rust repair, enough to make it safe, I'd like to drive it around for a while. Who knows, if I get it running OK, maybe my son will get my good, and marginally safer, 96 and I'll keep this one to drive around in.

By the way, the top was just sitting on the bed rails. No bolts holding it on. Good thing it made it home without flying off.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here are some pics of the trip home.

I was a little nervous to be pulling such a heavy load, not having towed anything since I did the engine swap. But the 351 / ZF5 combo did good. Even with the stock 3.55 gears, the granny low 1st had no trouble getting the trailer moving. The pictures make it look like its squatting really bad in the rear, but it wasn’t. I think it’s just the parking lot of the gas station and the lighting that makes it look worse

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.8, C6, True Trac diffs, 4.56 gears, 4" C&T lift, 130A 3G Alt, 35" Grabber AT2s
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Okay. looks like a decent starting point. Of you decide to part it out, I call dibs on thee back seat and the topper. Storm damage took out mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay. looks like a decent starting point. Of you decide to part it out, I call dibs on thee back seat and the topper. Storm damage took out mine.
Big IF I decide to part it out, I'll be sure to let you know. Topper is OK, but back seat is really nice. You're about 4.5 hours west of me, if that makes a difference.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.8, C6, True Trac diffs, 4.56 gears, 4" C&T lift, 130A 3G Alt, 35" Grabber AT2s
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Big IF I decide to part it out, I'll be sure to let you know. Topper is OK, but back seat is really nice. You're about 4.5 hours west of me, if that makes a difference.
As previously stated, I go to the quad Cities to see family. Can run by on my way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Today after work, me and the oldest decided to mess with the bronco. Not wanting to pull the battery from the F150, or move it to where I can hook up jumper cables and try checking fuel pressure, I decided to take the cover off the 8.8. Earlier, I mentioned that they probably didn't upgrade the gears to match the 35" tires, since they cheaped out with a block lift in the rear. They had painted the cover red (to match the superlift springs), so they'd at least taken it off at some point. Once I got it drained and out of the way, I saw the stock open differential. Wha whaaaa. I then jacked up the rearend so I could rotate the gears and count the teeth. I was surprised and mildly happy to have 41 ring gear teeth and 9 pinion gear teeth.

4.56.

However, I noticed one of the spider gear teeth was broke off (didn't see it inside), and there seemed to be quite a bit of slop. I assume / hope that the gears could be reused, since it seems to need a rebuild. Probably need to pull them apart and inspect everything real good.

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E4od is a nice transmission with a big cooler and upgraded lines. Consider rebuilding it; maybe even pickup a 4r100 internals donor from the salvage yard. I would fix it; with some rocker work it will be a solid rig. Plus if the kid dents it wont be the end of the world if it was rust free/perfect. May need a fuel pump and filter. Possibly eec or fuel relay could be bad also (pre 92 prob). Eddie bauer brick nose was not a cheap truck back in the day. MSRP was probably $26-29k. About 33% the cost of a home in 1990.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If anyone’s paying attention, I changed the thread title since I discovered today that it’s a 1991 instead of a 90. I was looking for something in the console of my 96 and found the title I was given when I bought the 91. Looking at that and the bill of sale, they both said 1991. It was listed as a 90 in the ad, and I even took a picture of the door tag with an august 1990 build date but never questioned the model year. Oh well, I feel a little silly. If anyone can tell me of changes between a 1990 and 1991, I’d be curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The internal struggle now is, whether to keep it a bricknose or update it to an aero, since I’m going to scrap the 96 F150. Expedient poll of the family says keep it a brick since it’s different.

Here it is after removing the rust-hiding fender flares:

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Plus the ‘maybe’ donor’

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh, here’s a few pics of the blocks in back. If it weren’t for the rust holding them together, I think they’d slip right out.

Plant Water Automotive tire Wood Grass


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread


When I get going on this thing, I’ll more than likely do a shackle flip with the original rear springs from my 96. Rust free and still arched.
 

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really the frame doesn't look awful. that's the biggest part, if you're thinking about keeping it. that silver bronco i had was rusted out on the leaf mounts and front coil spring buckets. but the frame itself was decent. i was able to replace a bunch of parts and eliminate the majority of the rust, except for the rust on the body panels.

regardless, a complete bronco for $400 is certainly worth the time to bring home and go over. nice find!
 

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There is no difference on 90-91 E4OD Eddie Bauer trucks. AOD was last year in 1990. 302 and 351 both has the optional E4OD in 1990. 1990 351 had the manadatory heavy duty transmission; E4OD. A good amount of the 1990 302s were AOD. 1991 Has some of the rarest trucks available; Unofficial 1991 Nite; and 91 Silver Anniversary. 87-89 351 was c6 transmission on Bronco. E4OD was available in 1989 for the F-series. 85-89 302s were all AOD for automatic.

87-88 Gray grille insert; hat top manual hubs; AC control button 87-mid 88; Dual arm rest for xlt+

PS I wrote the Bronco Wikipedia page back in the day. Some idiots edited a lot of it and it's not accurate anymore. I believe Ford employees did as it started to be rewritten when the new Bronco was being pushed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
The frame honestly doesn't seem that bad. The other day I bought one of those needle scaler tools that assault the rust off of things. I hit the frame in the worst looking spots, which were around the spring hangers, and it wasn't that bad.

I also found a piece of trim that I was missing today at the junkyard.

Tire Automotive tail & brake light Wheel Plant Vehicle


Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I found a rust free passenger fender Saturday at the junkyard. Sunday, I bought a 95% rust free driver side one from a local guy.

Motor vehicle Bumper Automotive exterior Wood Grass


Plant Trunk Tree Wood Grass


I don’t think the total paid was unreasonable. $95.

I also sold a set of wheels from my old Mazda that I got rid of back in March that more than paid for them.

When discussing things related to cars many many years ago, a coworker said, “sell what ya got, buy what ya want”
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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Nice score! I do like the idea of hanging the '96 nose on it though. I did the same thing to my ''87 F350 after it got hit. No offense to anyone, but I was never really a big fan of the "Brick nose" even though I bought one brand new, just different strokes for different folks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Today I converted the 5.0 to MAF

Vehicle Motor vehicle Hood Car Automotive lighting


Just Kidding!

I did replace the stock 2 hose air box and tubing with the MAF parts, because I was cleaning out the garage, and I eventually plan to do it all the way.
 
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