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489 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
are the left and right radius arms the same? I'm about to wrist my current set and they look to have a machined in taper at the bushing end where the end cap mates. both of mine have the same taper and casting number C6TA 3045A 33 do I need to go out and find the other side?
Thanks for any help.
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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4,775 Posts
they are the same. wrist away. mine was so much fun. i filled the whole arm with 1/2" & the ==C part with beads too just for fun. oh yeah, im glad to answer any questions. do both sides at the same time, tacking opposite sides so as not to warp it. if you knew that already, sorry. oh hey, before you drill the hole think about it carefully. if you dont figure out what the deal is, ask me before you drill...

here you go...


 

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Welcome to the jungle
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678 Posts
Hey Ax,
How much do your arms actually "wrist" while they're unpinned? When I "fork-lifted" the front left tire to max articulation, i was suprise how little it moved. But when I tried it with the pin in, it limited the hieght by nearly 10":shocked
Good stuff, these wristed babies.
BTW - What kind of rod should be use on these arms, since they're cast?
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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4,775 Posts
1/8" 6011 & all my welds were flat thank you very much... i got good penetration & even mix of the metals. i was up around 135 150 amps. after i cut the arm, i could tell by the cross section it was solid where i welded the sides. oh yeah, it flexes like you see in the pics, but from the pics i have seen, it wont go that far but it really adds to the flex. ive seen guys fully articulated & the wristed arm isnt but 1"-2" off center at the wrist.
 

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scrounger extrordinaire
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4,775 Posts
i didnt get excessive splatter at all. it went better as i increased the amps. i started off at 105 & went up until the arc was easily getting into the arm as well as the 1/2" plate. i dont think the welds will fail. i will let you know after the 60 goes in.
 
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