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Discussion Starter #22
seems like many use this 7 volt source.....
 

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95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Manual hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 301K miles
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A 12 Volt ignition switched source is what you want for your electric choke. The 7-9 volt source after the distributor in the Ignition circuit is not what you need. It is Designed for 12 Volts that is wired to turn on when the Ignition Switch is on. You can use any 12 Volt switched ignition source and if you like you can add a 10amp fuse. Just don't use a 12 Volt battery source.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks Stevo! I see that many installation guides say to run it to the “S” terminal on the alt. But that’s not 12v correct?


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95 5.8L XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Manual hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15's, 301K miles
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I'm a Mechanical/Aerospace engineer not an Electrical engineer or Electrician, so if instructions for Electric chokes say to use the "S" terminal on the Alternator then that "would" be a 12 Volt source but I don't know if it is an Ignition switched source. I would Imagine if they say to use it it would be but again I'm not a wiring expert. Let someone more Sparky than myself chime in on this. Take a DVM and check for a switched 12V source somewhere.
 

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You need full 12v to that choke - 7 won't cut the mustard. Here in Maine I have to adjust the chock for winter or summer since the temp swing is so drastic. The linkage can also bind up causing the choke to stick closed or sometimes the high idle eccentric doesn't drop down the way it supposed to when the choke is open.

Old school trick I was taught was to adjust the idle so that the transition slots in the bores form a square against the butterfly, then adjust your idle mixture and timing to get the idle where it should be otherwise you are just covering up some other issue by adjusting the idle speed screw.
Biggum
That is correct. Take carb off engine. Turn it upside down so you can see the slots and Adjust idle screw until the transition slots are squares
That is the correct idle position
then achieve idle with setting timing
If there are no vacuum leaks and the engine is healthy it will idle perfect

Grovermyson
I think I confused you. The throttle plates are in the bottom of the carb move as you adjust the idle screw

the choke buttery fly should open100% when engine is warmed up
It’s warmed with the electric heat assist (the wire). With time. It is also heated by the 2 aluminum tubes that connect to the intake manifold. As the choke heats up it opens
This wire should have 12 volts anytime the engine is running. Not when the ign key is on only (such as when you are just sitting in the bronco with the radio on engine not running)
It’s not Really needed there.
This being the case ford powers this wire from an odd place. Some where off thevALT volt regulator wiring
Most of these rigs ended up with that wire on on the I terminal of the starter relay. With the choke wire on I you get a more positive 12 volts
The only thing is if you turn the key to ign just To listen to the radio for a while and the engine is REAL cold it Open the butter fly And make it hard to start. But how often does this occur
For now to get things right wire the choke butterfly open. It will just be a little rough till she warms up
Unless you live in a cold climate you can just leave it wired open.

I noticed you have and after market intake and I do not see the choke pot heat up tubes. In fact I don’t see the tubes at all. This is most likely why the choke is not opening all the way

Mechanicaly lock the choke buttery fly open with bailing wire
Unplug the choke wire. Put electrical tape on the end so it’s not going to short out on somthing. See how it runs. If it runs good try plugging the wire back on and take off Bailing wire from the butterfly. See what the result is. You will know if the choke is the problem
 

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Thanks, @[U]Gondal[/U], only when the engine is running is what I meant when I said 12 Volts Ignition Switched source, not when the Ignition switch is on and the engine isn't running.
 

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Thanks, @[U]Gondal[/U], only when the engine is running is what I meant when I said 12 Volts Ignition Switched source, not when the Ignition switch is on and the engine isn't running.
Steveo
I ended up wiring one of mine to an oil pressure switch that I have energizing
A continuous duty relay that connects a second battery in parallel so they charge together only when oil pressure is present. (Engine on)
 

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The part about the choke using AC makes sense
but the I terminal is hot when the key is in the run position. (Any time engine is on)
The S terminal get 12 volts only when the starter is cranking the engine
I run Holley carbs....... it may very well be that the 2150 carb needs AC
 

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Holley came out with a 500 cfm 2 barrel few years back. I got one each for my 2 rigs. Never looked back
Much easier to tune
 

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After checking I stand corrected. The 2150 carb likes 7 volts AC Go figure
I bet ford made that choke AC so it’s only energized as the engine is running
There is no other source for power AC or DC with engine running ONLY on these rigs That I know of
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Thanks for that Gondal. It’s amazing how there’s so much different info out there.....


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Sorry guys. Still learning how to post.
I think I just figured out how to post with out adding a quote from one of you all.
I did not mean to reply quote you Steve O
 

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Now if I can learn to spell. Might need a dictionary. Remember those? The younger folks might not have ever see. One
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Update: I tested the choke off the carb. First tested the voltage and had 7 volts. I then placed the choke - connected, off to the side and started up the Bronco. It took a little over 3 minutes for the choke to fully open.
I let everything cool down and then put the choke back on the carb and noticed that the carb choke plate doesn’t fully open when the Bronco warmed up again. I think the choke spring might be on the weak side....




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