Stevo, Before I did all this I connected it to one of the 12v batteries I have and the the coil fully opened in a minute.
Not sure if that will make a difference when the choke is on the carb but I will give it a try. I won't give up!...LOL
Sorry Stevo, I think I didn't explain myself right - might be the heat here in TN. When attached to the 12 volt source the choke coil fully opens in a minute. When attached to the Broncos 7 volt source the choke coil opened in a little over 3 minutes. I think the 3 minutes is more proper for the Bronco - I think? I just need to get the coil to move the choke plate. Thats why I mentioned that the coil spring might be weak. Could be that I'm not installing it correctly - not much to screw up though.....
Odd that it works at all with AC and DC
if it is an aftermarket rebuilt carb it very well can be meant for 12v
I know my bronco had 12 volts to that from 1996 to 2017. It didn’t burn it up or anything bad.
You are missing parts to. The electric choke is to assist the Heat tubes from the manifold open that butterfly
Maybe I got the wrong choke (5150C). My carb is stock but I did have to replace the manifold since the original was cracked. I purchased a Edelbrock manifold that fits a 351M. So I had to remove the stove pipe stuff. It's strange that the choke coil does move but when Installed on the carb it does NOT move the choke plate.
No indication of voltage on the choke. I did though notice a difference between the choke I have(5150c) and the one you posted on that link for the 2150 carb. The choke I have, the end of the coil has a loop. This one from the instruction sheet has a different end that I believe will fit better between the forks on the choke housing (pic). I think I will order this one...What the heck....Thanks all for your input!
Just for $hitz and Giggles can you replace the 5150C black housing with the original? Or maybe take the spring out of the original and put it in the 5150C housing? Before going and ordering (spending any money) just yet!!!!
Now that I am thinking about it the original is heated by the exhaust gasses and the 5150C is heated by Electricity. Sounds flukie but it doesn't cost anything.
Sorry Stevo too much of a pain in the @ss to do that. I did however send an email to Mike Carburetor Parts regarding a choke for my 78 Bronco 2150 Carb. (www.carburetor-parts.com)
Here's the email.....
I need to replace the choke on my 1978 Bronco Custom 351M. The original choke on the carb was heated by the manifold stove pipe. I no longer have the original manifold. Do you have an electric choke that will work for my Motorcraft 2150 Carburetor? The power wire I have on the firewall for the choke produces 7 volts.
The CU1110 conversion should do it for you. These require a 12v key-on power source
Will a 7 volt source work too? But the choke will open slower?
No, they have to have a 12v power source. The conversion kits come with a sensor box which pulls some of the power along with the choke.
So, My question is....Do they make an electric choke that works with a 7v power source? Carburetor Parts doesn't have one. So people that are using their 7v source, which choke are they using? If I want to use my 7 volt wire which choke should I get?
I would just locate a 12 volt switched source that is energized when the engine is running, sorry I can't help with suggestions as I'm not that Electrically savvy. Maybe someone else will chime in and make suggestions or you can Post a Thread asking for help.
I'm glad you found the right unit for your application.
Are you sure that wire is supplying 7v and not 12v? I have my entire Holley Sniper system tapped into that wire for my key-on and cranking 12v power source and it all works as it should. It was previously hooked up to the edelbrock carb that was on the engine before and it was used for the electric choke. It worked properly that way as well. Weird.
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