Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts
I think the problem with the fuel tank switch is that it has no "center off" position. The window would be trying to constantly go either up or down (until a motor or fuse gave out).
 

·
Project STINKY Superviser
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I think the problem with the fuel tank switch is that it has no "center off" position. The window would be trying to constantly go either up or down (until a motor or fuse gave out).
That is what I figured, one tank or the other. Wonder why they don't list it, I called and they said they didn't know.

Next question, where to get one? No auto stores carry them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,770 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
That's it:thumbup

Hope it comes with some lube at that price:toothless
JBG just recently got these. Before that you had to find one in the junk yards or get lucky and find an NOS switch like I did. I paid $90 for that NOS switch BTW. I'm happy to have a source for these at a reasonable price.
 

·
Resident Nice Guy
Joined
·
2,246 Posts
Have you tried to pry yours apart to see if you can clean the contacts and get more life out of it? There's no harm in trying and it could save you $70. (If you're shocked at what JBG charges you for that switch, wait till you find out what they charge you to ship it to you in a bubble envelope :) ).

I've saved a lot of switches this way.
 

·
House of Windsor 4ever!
Joined
·
10,512 Posts
That fuel tank switch takes me right back to when my big brother Fred had just bought his '77 F250 4X4 new and brought it home; we're sitting in it, looking at everything, and Fred goes, "Hey, this has dual fuel tanks. Where's the selector switch?" and begins looking around the driver's seat area for it. I'm still looking at everything, and as I start looking at the heater controls, I see an extra switch. "Here it is." Fred looks over and says "Why the Hell is it over there?"
 

·
Project STINKY Superviser
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Have you tried to pry yours apart to see if you can clean the contacts and get more life out of it? There's no harm in trying and it could save you $70. (If you're shocked at what JBG charges you for that switch, wait till you find out what they charge you to ship it to you in a bubble envelope :) ).

I've saved a lot of switches this way.
I plan too, I also have the switch out of the 78 to try as well.

Still getting to the root cause of everything, I just bought $250 worth of tailgate parts to get everything back in working order including the limit switch. Hopefully Ill get lucky.
 

·
Project STINKY Superviser
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I'm at the point now where I want to bypass everything and install a aftermarket switch to the motor. I've seen a few people do it but no write ups on a 78-79, maybe my search skills suck.

Some say since its a universal motor Ill need either a relay or a drum switch. Any thoughts on this?
 

·
House of Windsor 4ever!
Joined
·
10,512 Posts
It's an asynchronous DC motor, goes back and forth under load when you swap polarity. You need a dual momentary rocker switch; a dash switch from any later-model Bronco with the pigtail and a few feet of the harness will do the same job. Install it on the dash, then wire it to the factory plug at the heater controls. That's all you'll need to restore function.
 

·
Project STINKY Superviser
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Bought a 6 lug switch from NAPA, momentary on-off-on. I wired it up to the motor and works perfectly. Now Ill run wiring in the Bronco and go from there. If everything goes to plan Ill do a Tech Write Up. A few pics to start it off.







 

·
House of Windsor 4ever!
Joined
·
10,512 Posts
I wouldn't have tied the power directly to the battery, it needs fuse protection. Connect it to the switch pigtail so it uses the fuse/CB already there. Or, if you don't do that, at least put a CB inline at the switch on the power input side to protect it.
 

·
Project STINKY Superviser
Joined
·
1,087 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I got the fuse spliced in and installed the window. Only a few more issues to take care of:


1.The old gasket in the top needs to be replaced, I cut some of it out so the window has clearance.
2. The window is 1inch away from going all the way up and 4 inches from going all the way down. There is nothing in the way and the guides are clear. WD40 seemed to help.
3. If I keep on the switch too long the fuse pops. Running a 10A fuse.

:banghead
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top