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House of Windsor 4ever!
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If I keep on the switch too long the fuse pops. Running a 10A fuse.
You need more than that for a window motor. They run 6-12A normally, and at least double that abnormally (which is where I think your regulator is right now. Use a Ford 30A CB (for PW), so it takes the guesswork out of which fuse would be the best.

As for the regulator, I found Eddie's regulator had 'locked up' because the ball ends the plastic track sliders snap on to were rusted inside, and the rust flakes had jammed them up, causing me to replace it. I'm thinking yours is getting there. Lower the T/G, close the latches, and run the window out to mid-way, then pull the access cover and unbolt the regulator tracks. Remove the tracks from the sliders, and rotate the sliders. They should rotate smoothly. If not, the balls may have rusted enough to hamper their motion. This means a new regulator. Also check the arm pivot. Any slop means replacement. If they're good, pack the ball joints with fresh grease, wirebrush and coat the tracks with fresh grease, and reassemble.carefully run the window in and out to verify how far the window now moves, and if anything is hanging up.
 

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Nothing in the LMC catalog or website shows the window switch in the dash. They have a fuel tank switch in the same location, wonder if that will work. Part Number 47-0850, thoughts?

Truck Parts and Truck Accessories
It's a bit of an old discussion I know but you can get the switches at Dennis carpenter for $39.95 with shipping, the part # is
D8TZ-14529-B
 
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