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Parts
There has been much debate as to where to get the replacement flock lined glass channels, some say using Ford Aerostar parts, or Dodge Pick-up parts will do. For me I didn’t want to hack up something just to make it “work”. I knew there had to something out there that would be comparable. After a few evenings asking my BFF Google, I found what I was looking for. A company called Restoration Specialties Supply had the channel, Ultrafab had the finned weather stripping, and the local parts house had the weather stripping adhesive.
The glass channel was a bear to locate. The factory channel is no longer produced, so I had to find something to replace it and be as close as possible to original dimensions.
The items I found are in bulk length and relatively inexpensive, plus minimal trimming. Even harder to find was the finned weather stripping that goes behind the sliding window. This item is used extensively in screen and patio doors, so once I knew what it was called it wasn’t too hard to find.
The latch on the sliding window has (2) screws holding it as well as some double sided tape. The only tape I found that was strong enough and thin enough is called servo tape. It can be found at your local Hobby Store that handles radio controlled cars, boats, planes, etc…. The one I used is made by Bolink. This stuff grabs like iron so make sure it is located correctly before you stick it down, because once its stuck, its stuck.
New Vs Old channel
Glass channel (Sliding)
NEW
![]()
OLD
![]()
Glass Channel (upright)
NEW
![]()
OLD
![]()
Trimming
In my adventure of locating the “perfect” replacement weather stripping I realized it was fruitless. So I used the best fitting channel that was currently available and not cost prohibitive. Now the trimming is minimal and not very difficult. I first trimmed the ears off the sides and followed that bevel across. The removal off the bottom is about 1/8”. I found putting the end in the vise and using a good utility blade the trimming went rather quickly.
![]()
Reassembly
1) Reinstall the wing window with cleaned seal and freshly painted metal frame. More soapy water here is key. Be sure the eccentric washer has its large end pointing rear and the plastic washer is against the bracket.
![]()
2) Install rear glass with seal. Be sure that channel is clean and you guessed it, more soapy water.
![]()
3) Reinstall the (2) aluminum uprights with new channel and finned weather stripping. Use (6) #6 x ¾’’ sheet metal screws. Leave the screws loose to aid in assembly.
Old (Black) New (Gray)
![]()
![]()
4) Glue in lower glass channel, use adhesive sparingly. Also clean the back side of the channel as it is coated with excess flocking material, some isopropyl alcohol will clean it, but it may take a few swipes to get it all.
![]()
5) Now for the upper channel, glue it to the rear part of the frame only. With the tail of the channel folded up, slide in slider; be sure it goes into the channel and not between the channel and frame.
![]()
6) With the window slid rearward, put frame ends together and install the splice plate with (4) #6 - 32 x 3/8” machine screws. Now glue the tail of the channel into frame and slide window foreword to help seat channel.
7) Now with everything back in place check all of the screws and tighten as necessary. Also don’t forget the window latch, The latch is held in place with the (2) #6x3/8” flat head sheet metal screws and the double sided tape.
![]()
8) Reinstall the glass stop on the bottom of the frame with (1) #6 x 3/8” sheet metal screw. I used a bit of weather stripping adhesive as the stop was stripped out.
![]()
9) On the bottom of the frame there are (2) drain holes, be sure to cut out the bottom side of the channel in these areas.
![]()
10) Ok we are finished with the resealing of the windows, now reinstall into the large rubber gasket and reinstall into cap.
Reinstall into Cap
1) The opening in the cap should be cleaned of any dirt or debris that will hinder the install of the window and seal.
Before
![]()
After
![]()
2) Yeup you guessed it, more soapy water. Liberally coat the seal and cap with soapy water as well as the cord you are about to place into the channel that will wrap around the vertical lip of the cap.
![]()
3) I started at the front of the cap by first inserting the pivot of the vent into the hole in the cap. Then working the seal around the lip in the cap, slowly, at first begin pulling on the cord to peal the seal around the lip. This is highly trial and error, I would pull on the cord a little at a time and look at it from the outside, and this is the time to fix any mismatch between the cap and seal. Also a few good raps with your hand to seat the seal will help motivate it.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
4)Now that the assembly is in place reinstall the chrome lock strip and stainless cover.
Pivot Repair
1)After the wing window assembly is removed remove the glass and frame from its seal.
2) Remove the glass from the frame, I used a multitude of tools, but what worked best was a utility knife and an assortment of picks, bent straight and a hook type. Don’t force the glass, if it won’t move keep cutting, you will be amazed how good just a little piece holds in the glass.
![]()
3) Once the frame is clean, time to measure. I got just a basic pivot bolt from Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard, for an Early Bronco. Cut the rusted pivot back to good metal, mine was an inch from the frame to the bump on the bolt.
![]()
![]()
4) Once the pivot bolt and nub have been bevel ground, weld them together. The end of the bolt will require trimming also; I reinstalled it and cut it just past the nut.
![]()
5) I tried to find the proper setting tape for this but I could not. I finally got the phone book out and looked for a glass shop in the “old part of town”. I figured they would know what to do. I dropped them off and 2 hours later they were done for the measly sum of $10 each. The glass shop did not have setting tape thick enough and had to use (2) pieces 1/16” and 3/32”. He said the biggest problem is tearing the tape, be sure to use the thicker one on the outside.
There ya go, It isn't very difficult and can be done in a weekend. Now there is no excuse to toss them sliders because they leak!
Materials:
Jeffs Bronco Graveyard
Pivot Pin P/N14356
Fastenal
(12) #6 x ¾” Sheet metal screw (Phillips Stainless) P/N 0178526
(12) #6 -32 x 3/8” Machine screw (Phillips Stainless) P/N 0178569
(6) #6 x 3/8” Flathead sheet metal (Phillips Stainless) P/N 0148250
(6) #6 x½” Sheet metal (Phillips Stainless) P/N 72904
Restoration Specialties Supply
(1) Glass Channel 96” long P/N AS1268-96
(2) Glass Channel 96” long P/N AS1466-96
UltraFab
(1) Finned Weather stripping
Sources:
Restoration Specialties & Supply Inc.
148 Minnow Creek Lane
Windber PA, 15963
814-467-9842
restorationspecialties.com
Ultrafab Inc.
1050 Hook Rd
Farmington NY, 14425
585-924-2186
Ultrafab.com
Fastenal Company
2001 Theurer Boulevard
Winona, MN 55987
507 454-5374
Fastenal.com
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
7843 Lochlin Dr.
Brighton, MI, 48116
248 437-5060
Broncograveyard.com
There has been much debate as to where to get the replacement flock lined glass channels, some say using Ford Aerostar parts, or Dodge Pick-up parts will do. For me I didn’t want to hack up something just to make it “work”. I knew there had to something out there that would be comparable. After a few evenings asking my BFF Google, I found what I was looking for. A company called Restoration Specialties Supply had the channel, Ultrafab had the finned weather stripping, and the local parts house had the weather stripping adhesive.
The glass channel was a bear to locate. The factory channel is no longer produced, so I had to find something to replace it and be as close as possible to original dimensions.
The items I found are in bulk length and relatively inexpensive, plus minimal trimming. Even harder to find was the finned weather stripping that goes behind the sliding window. This item is used extensively in screen and patio doors, so once I knew what it was called it wasn’t too hard to find.
The latch on the sliding window has (2) screws holding it as well as some double sided tape. The only tape I found that was strong enough and thin enough is called servo tape. It can be found at your local Hobby Store that handles radio controlled cars, boats, planes, etc…. The one I used is made by Bolink. This stuff grabs like iron so make sure it is located correctly before you stick it down, because once its stuck, its stuck.
New Vs Old channel
Glass channel (Sliding)
NEW
OLD
Glass Channel (upright)
NEW
OLD
Trimming
In my adventure of locating the “perfect” replacement weather stripping I realized it was fruitless. So I used the best fitting channel that was currently available and not cost prohibitive. Now the trimming is minimal and not very difficult. I first trimmed the ears off the sides and followed that bevel across. The removal off the bottom is about 1/8”. I found putting the end in the vise and using a good utility blade the trimming went rather quickly.
Reassembly
1) Reinstall the wing window with cleaned seal and freshly painted metal frame. More soapy water here is key. Be sure the eccentric washer has its large end pointing rear and the plastic washer is against the bracket.
2) Install rear glass with seal. Be sure that channel is clean and you guessed it, more soapy water.
3) Reinstall the (2) aluminum uprights with new channel and finned weather stripping. Use (6) #6 x ¾’’ sheet metal screws. Leave the screws loose to aid in assembly.
Old (Black) New (Gray)
4) Glue in lower glass channel, use adhesive sparingly. Also clean the back side of the channel as it is coated with excess flocking material, some isopropyl alcohol will clean it, but it may take a few swipes to get it all.
5) Now for the upper channel, glue it to the rear part of the frame only. With the tail of the channel folded up, slide in slider; be sure it goes into the channel and not between the channel and frame.
6) With the window slid rearward, put frame ends together and install the splice plate with (4) #6 - 32 x 3/8” machine screws. Now glue the tail of the channel into frame and slide window foreword to help seat channel.
7) Now with everything back in place check all of the screws and tighten as necessary. Also don’t forget the window latch, The latch is held in place with the (2) #6x3/8” flat head sheet metal screws and the double sided tape.
8) Reinstall the glass stop on the bottom of the frame with (1) #6 x 3/8” sheet metal screw. I used a bit of weather stripping adhesive as the stop was stripped out.
9) On the bottom of the frame there are (2) drain holes, be sure to cut out the bottom side of the channel in these areas.
10) Ok we are finished with the resealing of the windows, now reinstall into the large rubber gasket and reinstall into cap.
Reinstall into Cap
1) The opening in the cap should be cleaned of any dirt or debris that will hinder the install of the window and seal.
Before
After
2) Yeup you guessed it, more soapy water. Liberally coat the seal and cap with soapy water as well as the cord you are about to place into the channel that will wrap around the vertical lip of the cap.
3) I started at the front of the cap by first inserting the pivot of the vent into the hole in the cap. Then working the seal around the lip in the cap, slowly, at first begin pulling on the cord to peal the seal around the lip. This is highly trial and error, I would pull on the cord a little at a time and look at it from the outside, and this is the time to fix any mismatch between the cap and seal. Also a few good raps with your hand to seat the seal will help motivate it.
4)Now that the assembly is in place reinstall the chrome lock strip and stainless cover.
Pivot Repair
1)After the wing window assembly is removed remove the glass and frame from its seal.
2) Remove the glass from the frame, I used a multitude of tools, but what worked best was a utility knife and an assortment of picks, bent straight and a hook type. Don’t force the glass, if it won’t move keep cutting, you will be amazed how good just a little piece holds in the glass.
3) Once the frame is clean, time to measure. I got just a basic pivot bolt from Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard, for an Early Bronco. Cut the rusted pivot back to good metal, mine was an inch from the frame to the bump on the bolt.
4) Once the pivot bolt and nub have been bevel ground, weld them together. The end of the bolt will require trimming also; I reinstalled it and cut it just past the nut.
5) I tried to find the proper setting tape for this but I could not. I finally got the phone book out and looked for a glass shop in the “old part of town”. I figured they would know what to do. I dropped them off and 2 hours later they were done for the measly sum of $10 each. The glass shop did not have setting tape thick enough and had to use (2) pieces 1/16” and 3/32”. He said the biggest problem is tearing the tape, be sure to use the thicker one on the outside.
There ya go, It isn't very difficult and can be done in a weekend. Now there is no excuse to toss them sliders because they leak!
Materials:
Jeffs Bronco Graveyard
Pivot Pin P/N14356
Fastenal
(12) #6 x ¾” Sheet metal screw (Phillips Stainless) P/N 0178526
(12) #6 -32 x 3/8” Machine screw (Phillips Stainless) P/N 0178569
(6) #6 x 3/8” Flathead sheet metal (Phillips Stainless) P/N 0148250
(6) #6 x½” Sheet metal (Phillips Stainless) P/N 72904
Restoration Specialties Supply
(1) Glass Channel 96” long P/N AS1268-96
(2) Glass Channel 96” long P/N AS1466-96
UltraFab
(1) Finned Weather stripping
Sources:
Restoration Specialties & Supply Inc.
148 Minnow Creek Lane
Windber PA, 15963
814-467-9842
restorationspecialties.com
Ultrafab Inc.
1050 Hook Rd
Farmington NY, 14425
585-924-2186
Ultrafab.com
Fastenal Company
2001 Theurer Boulevard
Winona, MN 55987
507 454-5374
Fastenal.com
Jeff's Bronco Graveyard
7843 Lochlin Dr.
Brighton, MI, 48116
248 437-5060
Broncograveyard.com
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