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1978 Ford Bronco Custom
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The original paint is that Cinnamon Glow color. Not the best color in my opinion but If i was to pay for a nice paint job, id bring it back to the factory color. That being said what are yalls opinions of Raptor Liner, Plasti Dip, or Vinyl Wraps?

I figure Plasti Dip and Vinyl Wrap I can remove whenever, so i can do what ever color i want. I also feel like Raptor Liner gives it a mean ruggedness that this type of truck should have, but also brings down the value. Doing this will also make it super difficult to remove if i did want factory paint again.

Thoughts?
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Raptor RootBeer
 

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I'm in the same situation, the rattle can special currently on mine aint cutting it and I've been considering alternatives. Vinyl wrap is easier to remove than plasti dip. Pretty sure bed liner is next to impossible to remove


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1978 Ford Bronco Custom
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Just an update. Ive decided to go with a raptor liner 2 tone. I plan on keeping the classic pattern but with non-stock colors. All black with the brown nectarine down the side. This way, all the door jams and trim will still match. What do yall think?
 

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Yo T,
"...This way, all the door jams and trim will still match..."
Good! Visually appealing.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Hmmm... black and brown. Kinda like a skid-mark? j/k
I'd have to see the shade of brown and the scheme before I'd make that call but it's your rig and your call. Lots of folks thought my "Stoned Bronco" paint-job looked like crap but I dug it and that's what counts.
 

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1979 Custom, 6.6L Auto
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Should be cool when done, nice to not have to worry about brush and whatnot, but did not see in your list, a regular paint job.., why was that option out the window?
 

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1978 Ford Bronco Custom
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Should be cool when done, nice to not have to worry about brush and whatnot, but did not see in your list, a regular paint job.., why was that option out the window?
Cost primarily. If i was to paint it properly, id want to take it back to factory colors.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Important safety information for anyone applying bedliner. Semper hootus excludus.
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual hubs
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Well...
one day I will have to take similar decision:
What I will not do - as its looks crap on a full car: Raptor or bedliner.... I used Raptoliner for the removable top, ok, to have the original structure.
but on the metal parts of the car I only recommend paint.
And even its not the best paintjob, you may be able to buff out some of the problems resulting from a cheap painter.

In the end you need to know what you want. An A+ number paint job is very costly, we talk about 4000€ in Germany ~ 4700 USD incl. most of pre-work (but exept disassebly).

My recommendation is:
Do most of pre-work your own, as good as you can and then bring it to a professional, who can do the painting itself.

this can save quite some money....
 

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1979 Custom, 6.6L Auto
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My kid got a $150 ranger and we did a refresh on the cheap. Used the Duplicolor "paint shop" series primer/paint and the cheapest $39 HVLP spray gun from autozone. Needed to reduce it to spray better, and but got it covered for around $300 in paint supplies and turned out pretty good considering the paint and sprayer used. No show truck but looks awesome at 15 feet! lol
Might be easier to prep in the future for a re-paint vs. raptor?? IDK.
 

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Well...
one day I will have to take similar decision:
What I will not do - as its looks crap on a full car: Raptor or bedliner.... I used Raptoliner for the removable top, ok, to have the original structure.
but on the metal parts of the car I only recommend paint.
And even its not the best paintjob, you may be able to buff out some of the problems resulting from a cheap painter.

In the end you need to know what you want. An A+ number paint job is very costly, we talk about 4000€ in Germany ~ 4700 USD incl. most of pre-work (but exept disassebly).

My recommendation is:
Do most of pre-work your own, as good as you can and then bring it to a professional, who can do the painting itself.

this can save quite some money....
I agree with this. I have never been a big fan of bedliner type material as the main body covering. At some point I will probably do the paint work myself, on my bronco. A little bit of wet sanding can go a long way towards cleaning up some orange peel.
 

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I painted my 78 bronco about a month ago. It took about $300.00 in materials, plus the paint gun and a 100' roll of plastic to build a paint booth in my barn.
I love it. The paint pops nicely in the sun. It's my first go at painting with legit automotive paint and equipment. It was pretty easy. I used single stage paint.
I used herculiner on the cap and it looks fantastic.
168592
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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sweet lookin' old beasty right there. (y)

I was thinking of a similar shade for my lil' lady's. Good heads up. Got a full frame shot?
 
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sweet lookin' old beasty right there. (y)

I was thinking of a similar shade for my lil' lady's. Good heads up. Got a full frame shot?
That's the best picture I have of it. This is what it looked like before the new paint.
168593
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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not exactly what I was hoping for. ;)
 

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1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual hubs
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Turned out really good!!

what size compressor you have?
or better: what size is recommended for paiinting?
 

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Oh yea. Very much so. Appreciate it. Here's why I ask...
Oh damn, that looks great. I believe that is the original color mine was before the previous owner painted in Chicago Bear blue. I went with a blue pearl paint to get it close to original with a little extra pop.
What do you think about the black topper? I didn't think I would like it all that much, but it might be my favorite part of the refinish project.
Also, if you look close enough, you'll see a lot of rings, dents and bends in the body. I fixed some things, did some welding and patching, but I didn't get crazy, because it's a trail rig.
I have to finish the bumpers, put skid plates on and fab up some rock sliders, then it'll be ready. The trails in Kentucky are narrow and loaded with rocks and ridges.
 
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