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I'm Scott if you were directing that to me.

I also edited my post after going back and seeing page 1. Your trans cooler was replaced at one time.

This is a stock cooler.

 

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Discussion Starter #62
I'm Scott if you were directing that to me.

I also edited my post after going back and seeing page 1. Your trans cooler was replaced at one time.
Crap. Sorry, Scott. :smilie_slap

Ok, so mine's the aftermarket cooler. Theirs are factory. Got it. Thank you for posting the Trailer Special info. I missed that when I was doing the searches for some reason. We'll call it user error. :brownbag
 

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Crap. Sorry, Scott. :smilie_slap

Ok, so mine's the aftermarket cooler. Theirs are factory. Got it. Thank you for posting the Trailer Special info. I missed that when I was doing the searches for some reason. We'll call it user error. :brownbag

Good edit, I almost had ya.:histerica


Scott, thanks for the info on these Trailer Specials. Do you think the build sheet would give some more info? I called Ford for the info yesterday.
Build sheet only tells that it came with the Trailer tow package.

 

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Today's run-down...

First, we'll start with the @#%$%Q!!* moment of the morning. One of these things is not like the other:


an air hammer will pop that broken sud right out. to get the new one in i used this adapter thingy my shop teacher had with a lug nut on the new stud to pull it through. tighten a bit and hit the flange on either side with an air hammer. repeat until its not going in anymore.
 

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Mine HAD the 4-point mirrors but somebody swapped them out for the Western style mirrors and plugged the holes with panhead screws. :doh0715:
I am atleast the third owner. So who knows what they did before me other than paint it. Good luck with the build, when I start on one of my three I'll be sure to do a thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #70
an air hammer will pop that broken sud right out. to get the new one in i used this adapter thingy my shop teacher had with a lug nut on the new stud to pull it through. tighten a bit and hit the flange on either side with an air hammer. repeat until its not going in anymore.
I was told to try something similar, just without the air hammer. I'm going to try knocking it out with a center punch & BFH. To install the new ones, I'm going to try using a stack of washers - drawing the bolt in bit by bit until it won't go any more.
 

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that axle breather is cleverly hidden on my truck. the hose was clipped off close and probably has crap jammed in it by now.
now that i know what it is i need to get around to running a new line for it and probably need to drain my diff and change the fluid.
much apreciated to show that line there, if i hadn't stopped by in this thread i wouldn't know what that was.
 

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I was told to try something similar, just without the air hammer. I'm going to try knocking it out with a center punch & BFH. To install the new ones, I'm going to try using a stack of washers - drawing the bolt in bit by bit until it won't go any more.
the air hammer makes it easy. i pounded on mine with a sledge and it wouldnt budge. the air hammer took about 30 sec to pop it out. hitting it with the air hammer on the flange while the lugnut was torqued would budge it in bit by bit until eventually it wouldnt go any farther. after that i just put the wheel back on and torqued the lug nuts properly. gonna just keep doing that every so often and not worry since i drove on 4 lugs for 4 years.
 

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since its on the rear axle the way i would do it, is to pull the axle shaft and set it on top of an old rotor with the studs lined through the holes in the rotor and just pound away with a bfh till the stud is set. after that just torque the wheels on like your supposed to and then its good.
once they're torqued in to the required specs for the wheels to be held on then its good to go.

i was just going to find that size line and do like my buddy did with his jeep and run the breather hose into the engine bay.
if i have breathers for anything else i'll do the same thing for them as well
 

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Discussion Starter #75
UPDATE!!

Well it's about time I got something done...

I got my '79 to THE SHOP a few weeks ago and dismantled the old bastard. He leaves behind a stash of parts that are going into this '78 and a bunch of other bits that are going to other trucks to help keep them on the road. RIP :upup:

Among the donations to the '78 are the Hedman Hedders (P/N 89210), a 4" Rancho lift, the American Racing 15" wheels with 35" BF Goodrich M/T KM tires and miscellaneous small parts.

The Hedders were a VERY pleasant surprise. I finally noticed the little stamped steel tag that's tack welded to the #1 tube. They're Hedman Hedders, so I contacted them to see if they could identify which Hedders they are. Spoke to Danny Lake over there who proved to be really helpful. He had me send him some pictures of them and confirmed they're the 89210s. Turns out they're California legal; they carry an Executive Order from the Air Resources Board (E.O. D-167-27). Not only that, but he even sent me two of the E.O. labels so my smog guy doesn't give me crap. So, until the 400M dies, I'll use these bad boys. (Once that happens, it's all about the Cummins 6BT engine swap.)

The '79 also had a Weiand aluminum intake on it, but it wasn't equipped with EGR provisions, so I couldn't use it. (Still for sale in the Classifieds as of this writing.) So I swapped it for an Edelbrock 3771 aluminum intake with the EGR provision.

My new stickers:


The Hedmans and the Edelbrock have both seen some years, so they were pretty gnarly, so I took them to:

and had them blasted.

Angel took pretty good care of me. Here he is bead blasting the intake:


The Hedders got sand blasted and the Edelbrock got briefly sand blasted just to remove the surface crap and then bead blasted to really clean it up. I already bought some header primer and paint (both rated to 2000F) against the advice of some folks but my thinking is this: I'm not planning to keep the 400M or these Hedders for more than a year or two, so if the paint only lasts me a season that's ok. I will clear coat the intake 'cause I think it will look better longer that way.

The Hedders as they looked when they came out of the '79:




... and when I picked them up from the sand blaster:





(Close up)


The Edelbrock as it looked before blasting:




... and after blasting:









These guys did a good job for the money. I paid $50.00 and saved a hell of a lot of elbow grease & time. Hopefully I'll have time to at least install the Hedders this weekend so I can get the exhaust plumbed. I don't need cats (despite living in the People's Republik of Kalifornia) because I have a Non-Catalyst emission certification tag, so the muffler shop down the street said they can do true dual, header-back plumbing with twin Flowmasters for $250.00. Considering they want $100.00 just for the mufflers, I guess that's not too bad. I'll buy my own mufflers and show up to see how much they want just to run the tubing.
 

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They did a good job for only $50. Looks good. I bet the header paint last longer than my pacesetter headers. It was gone in a week.
 
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