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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
It has been a long time since I last posted here, and there has been quite a progress on 'Bruce'. After disassembling, cleaning and rebuilding both front and rear differentials (twice) we realized the gears were in such bad shape that I had to do something about it. I was also hearing a low humming noise, almost like a plane, coming from the rear axle. Which was not good at all.

After removing the 3rd member from the rear axle we noticed the gears were pitted because of the rust and there was quite a lot of misalignment which caused a lot of play and probably that humming noise.




The gears at the front axle were severely rusted and pitted as well and after replacing the oil it all started pouring out of the sides because the internal seals were shot. This makes me think of the "ass****" who sold me the truck and told me how the drivetrain was in such good condition, I truly believe it was a miracle this thing drove a 1,000 miles from Idaho to California and I must have some angels looking over me.

Anyways, Ziggy found an 9" differential shell out of an 80-something Ford van, which is basically the same for 78's. He cleaned it and took it to a guy who rebuild the gears and we ventured on installing it onto 'Bruce'.



Ziggy also detected the wedges at the rear axle were in bad shape, what we didn't expect is that they were actually completely broken, another accident waiting to happen:



So to be on the safe side, we replaced the axle, rebuilt the gears, replaced the wedges and U-joints. This would ensure a safe ride. The process went smoothly, except when trying to remove the old U-Joints. The PO must have glued the nuts because they were not coming out. The only solution was to cut them:



Out with the old:


In with the new:


The new 3rd member:


The restored differential installed:


Brakes have also been rebuilt. No Hydroboost system yet, but to be honest the difference from before and after doing this is so huge to me that I am fine with the regular rebuilt brakes. We replaced the rear drums and installed new hardware, and for the front, we replaced the disks and calipers. I replaced all the lines as well and the master cylinder is new too. So it is basically a brand new brake system. Thank you Ziggy for your patience in helping me bleed the system, it took a while!

I also worked on a few cosmetic things. Finished the door panels modification using those plastic threaded rods. It all fit perfectly and now its super easy if I ever need to remove them. I installed new speakers and a retro radio, so I finally can listen to some music!

Made a template out of paper for the holes:



The thread with the nut in place:


Final pannel installed in door:


Finished as well replacing the woodgrain on the steering wheel with the help of a heat gun. Although I will probably redo it later on, because it is my first attempt and I didn't do that good of a job. I have plenty of material to try it again.



Also, the steering cover was in such bad shape that had some broken pieces, that I can't replace. I repainted the chrome parts with a silver Krylon pen so it doesn't look perfect, but it is good enough for now.

Moving on, none of the courtesy lights were working before. So I fixed most of those electrical little issues. By cleaning some of the connections, using some dielectric grease and making sure everything was nice and tight it solve most of the problems. The only light is not turning on is the rear plate light, which is all rusted and falling apart. I still need to check it. But I am happy that all the lights in the dash, the courtesy lights, map lights and glove compartment light work now, even the high-beam indicator, which I didn't even know it existed!

I also replaced most of the interior bulbs with LEDs from HiPo parts. The dash now is brighter than the original but still retains the vintage look. Sorry I do not have pictures of any of that.

I also fixed the tailgate window, which was always getting stuck and never let me open the tailgate. A side from replacing all the glass runs and weatherstrip on the tailgate which were in such bad shape that were literally braking in my hands as I was pulling them off. I also replaced the motor. This is probably the area where the rust is the worst in the whole truck. I had to literally drill out the bolts and nuts because they were fused together in rust. And the bottom of the tailgate has cancer. Another one for the PO, great job on not taking care of this and telling me the Bronco was cancer free. Eventually I might have to replace the tailgate for a used one or maybe a reproduction, although I have heard they aren't that good and they don't quite fit like the OEM. I apologize I do not have any pictures of the new weatherstripping being installed and I only have these three showing the rust inside the tailgate:




The remainings of the weatherstripping from the tailgate:



We also installed a 3G Alternator. I know this has been documented here before so I won't go much into details, but you basically need a 175A inline Fuse and thicker wires if possible. I also purchased the kit from PA Performance for the 1G to 3G conversion although I have not installed it yet. Not that I am planning to add any crazy accessories, but it is good to have a more efficient and modern alternator that provides constant power instead of the original fluctuating 1G alternator.





Another mod has been installing this Windshield/Cooler tank, which makes things more compact and organized. The originals were missing anyways.



Next, is replacing the front axle, same we did with the rear. Ziggy had a spare Dana 44 housing although in this case I purchased new gears because we didn't have ones in good shape. We have all the parts ready and we should be doing this soon. We are also going to rebuild the steering which is another big problem my Bronco has now, because it is way too loose and the pump makes a lot of noise. We will be replacing the steering link, installing a rebuilt gearbox from Redhead and tightening it all nicely. Later on, the plan is to install a Saginaw pump.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
After a long hot Saturday, we managed to replace the front differential and the steering rod link. The differential housing came from a spare that Ziggy had and the internal gears are all new. The axles were swapped with the ones I had and we also replaced the steering knuckles. Almost every joint on my steering was shot, and caused a lot of play on my steering.

This is the old differential right before starting all the process:




After removing the hubs, brake disks and so on:





Removing some of the bolts holding the link was a pain:



Especially this one:



We used a wedged tool shaped as a U (sorry I do not know its name):



But it didn't work for this one, so we had no other option than to cut the nut. Sorry no pictures of the cutting process, but you can use your imagination :)




Removing the shock was probably the easiest, a couple of bolts and a few washers on each side. It was totally worn out.




Loosening the bolts holding the differential bracket:



Out with the old:



In with the new. You really need to people for the job. This thing is really heavy and it kept wanting to fall. Small adjustments on the jack until we got it close enough in position. Then tighten both sides at the same time and in a cross pattern.



Restored steering knuckles before installation:



And during installation, which was difficult to fit. We used a hydraulic jack to help:



These are the tools needed for the rod link installation. I took a picture so I could remember but of course, I didn't flip the two black sockets properly to show what they are so I do not know, sorry. The other two are a 1 1/8 and a 1 5/16 sockets.



We measured the old link as a starting point and translated the measurement to the new one, although it needs a professional alignment which I will be showing a couple of pictures at the end.



Differential back in place, rod link back in place and the old drag bar back in place (didn't replace that).



Almost there, only left to bolt the caliper mounting bracket and installing the calipers.



All done, here is a picture of before and after:



And last but not least, it is imperative to take it to a shop for a professional alignment. I was lucky I found this cool old shop close by and the guys were really nice they let me stay and take pictures:




This are the results of the alignment. Everything is within normal ranges now except for camber and caster. Unfortunately, there is no adjustment for that on these old trucks but it is not that bad anyway.



That is all for now! We should be installing a refurbished RedHead gearbox, a Saginaw pump and lower Borgeson shaft to finish with the steering restoration. But Ziggy detected that my harmonic balancer is about to fall apart, so we wiil be doing this first.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Things have been going a bit slow and had a bit of a setback with the rear driveshaft. I started to hear that clicking noise again, although very mild this time. And I decided to check it before it became worse.

I had previously installed GMB U-joints and a Moog CV head and had a bad feeling when I did so. I tried to save money by choosing them but the quality of the GMB U-joints didn't seem so good. The grease fittings that came with them didn't even fit and the caps were longer than usual. I am not sure if this made any difference but it was bothering me and due to the noise coming back I decided to switch to Spicer. But when doing so I noticed an issue that probably was the real reason for the problem, the H Yoke.

The U-joints are supposed to fit very tight in it and they were very loose, even the old ones. I was able to remove them by hand and install the new ones by hand as well. At the moment I didn't think it would be a problem because there were snap rings holding them, but after talking to Ziggy it was obvious I had to replace the H Yoke as well.

This is a video of the busted H Yoke, the U-Joint caps are not supposed to be able to move freely like this, they are supposed to fit very tight.

I guess this is a constant when working on a classic vehicle, redoing things over and over until you get it right. Well, they say the third time is a charm!

And because the GMB U-joints had longer caps it was a PITA to remove them:


Left is the new H Yoke (part number Moog 647) and right is the old one:



Spicer U-joints, CV Head and H Yoke installed:





Hopefully I will have more updates soon.
 

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2,180 Posts
I was just wondering how it was going for you and Zig yesterday. I'm very glad to see you're still knocking it out. Could we see some update pics of the Bronco perhaps? I bet it's a different monster compared to how it looked when you got it.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
I was just wondering how it was going for you and Zig yesterday. I'm very glad to see you're still knocking it out. Could we see some update pics of the Bronco perhaps? I bet it's a different monster compared to how it looked when you got it.
Thank you! It's going slow but we are still on track. I will post soon pictures of "Bruce" Although the exterior looks exactly the same.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
By the way, I started asking around quotes for a new paint job and body work. One shop that I really like quoted me $10k for:


-full body repair and paint stripping (including interior)
-2 coat primer and sealer
-2 stage paint with clear coat in the dual tone blue/white
-buffing
-disassembling everything
-realigning hood, doors and fenders
-assembling new tailgate, and replacing hardware
-installing racetrack moldings
-replacing glass and weatherstripping​

I only have to provide the new parts, which I almost have them all.

What do you guys think? It is a lot of money but they are doing a lot of work.
 

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By the way, I started asking around quotes for a new paint job and body work. One shop that I really like quoted me $10k for:


-full body repair and paint stripping (including interior)
-2 coat primer and sealer
-2 stage paint with clear coat in the dual tone blue/white
-buffing
-disassembling everything
-realigning hood, doors and fenders
-assembling new tailgate, and replacing hardware
-installing racetrack moldings
-replacing glass and weatherstripping​

I only have to provide the new parts, which I almost have them all.

What do you guys think? It is a lot of money but they are doing a lot of work.
Really kickass job on the truck so far.

I don't know how paint prices are, but I can tell you it is a helluva lot of work, as someone who painted their Bronco and a bigass M-715 in the last few years. And it is BORING work. So, so boring. I enjoy making the truck look good but body work is dull as shit.
They should also redo seam sealer IMO if it's not in great shape.
Personally I can't fathom spending that kind of money on a paint job, mainly because I'll scratch it the first time I take it on a trail. But for a resto job as nice as this, it might be worth it for you personally.
How's the rust on the body? Would suck to pay for a job like that and have ruse come through in a year or two.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
Joined
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
By the way, I started asking around quotes for a new paint job and body work. One shop that I really like quoted me $10k for:


-full body repair and paint stripping (including interior)
-2 coat primer and sealer
-2 stage paint with clear coat in the dual tone blue/white
-buffing
-disassembling everything
-realigning hood, doors and fenders
-assembling new tailgate, and replacing hardware
-installing racetrack moldings
-replacing glass and weatherstripping​

I only have to provide the new parts, which I almost have them all.

What do you guys think? It is a lot of money but they are doing a lot of work.
Really kickass job on the truck so far.

I don't know how paint prices are, but I can tell you it is a helluva lot of work, as someone who painted their Bronco and a bigass M-715 in the last few years. And it is BORING work. So, so boring. I enjoy making the truck look good but body work is dull as shit.
They should also redo seam sealer IMO if it's not in great shape.
Personally I can't fathom spending that kind of money on a paint job, mainly because I'll scratch it the first time I take it on a trail. But for a resto job as nice as this, it might be worth it for you personally.
How's the rust on the body? Would suck to pay for a job like that and have ruse come through in a year or two.
Thank you! It's been truly a huge learning experience at all levels. Considering I didn't even know how to replace a tire a year ago, but I'm really lucky I not only found this forum but also met people as awesome as Ziggy who has been an immense help and deserves most of the credit.

When you say seam sealer, do you mean in general sealing all the seams? The guy mentioned they would strip the old seals and seal everything after stripping the paint.

I totally agree it's a lot of money. My wife freaked out when I told her and I do not know what to do. I don't blame her, I jumped into this whitout having a clue and now I have no other option but to keep going. She hates 'Bruce' with a passion and part of me wants to paint it so she will finally accept it.

In terms of rust, seems pretty good. I can only see some surface rust which is good. The only part where it was bad (cancer bad) was the tailgate and I am already replacing it. But, there's one thing that concerns me. The PO had some Rhino coating at the bottom of the truck and that scares me because I feel there must be some rust in there. I have pulled a couple of spots and it looks good but I noticed yesterday one small place at the bottom of one of the doors that feels a bit soft and crunchy under the Rhino coating. So if there's something there, it means that there will be some other spots. I hope it won't be too bad.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
Awesome build thread. I've enjoyed reading it. You're doing a great job.
Thank you Mark, it means a lot! I have been following your build thread as well, and I am really impressed with what you have done so far. Looks so clean an nice, wish I could have removed the engine on mine and done all the work you have done.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Wow, amazing and very detailed thread :) So many things to learn from here, thanks a lot. Friend from DSRLeasing recently gave me an idea to try my own project and I think I know what I will pick :)

Thank you Hannibal!
 

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Thank you! It's been truly a huge learning experience at all levels. Considering I didn't even know how to replace a tire a year ago, but I'm really lucky I not only found this forum but also met people as awesome as Ziggy who has been an immense help and deserves most of the credit.

When you say seam sealer, do you mean in general sealing all the seams? The guy mentioned they would strip the old seals and seal everything after stripping the paint.

I totally agree it's a lot of money. My wife freaked out when I told her and I do not know what to do. I don't blame her, I jumped into this whitout having a clue and now I have no other option but to keep going. She hates 'Bruce' with a passion and part of me wants to paint it so she will finally accept it.

In terms of rust, seems pretty good. I can only see some surface rust which is good. The only part where it was bad (cancer bad) was the tailgate and I am already replacing it. But, there's one thing that concerns me. The PO had some Rhino coating at the bottom of the truck and that scares me because I feel there must be some rust in there. I have pulled a couple of spots and it looks good but I noticed yesterday one small place at the bottom of one of the doors that feels a bit soft and crunchy under the Rhino coating. So if there's something there, it means that there will be some other spots. I hope it won't be too bad.
I was similar when I bought my Bronco - knew how to do tires, brakes, simple stuff. But a Bronco sure forces you to learn the rest. :thumbup

Seam sealer is this gunky sort of caulk that is used under the paint to seal up where different body panels join together - for example, the inside panels of the bed wall with the bed itself. They'll probably do the seams with that sort of pricetag, but worth checking.

Ha, sounds like my wife:
"I won't ride in it until it's registered"
Got it registered.
"I won't ride in it until it's painted"
Got it painted.
"I won't ride in it cause the sun is on me"
So I just built a rollcage so I can have a sun shade. But I'm sure it won't appease Her Holiness. :toothless
It's still a frigging negotiation to get her to ride in it even to get groceries.
Anyways - my lesson is do it for you, not her. :goodfinge

You might even think about doing something like Al's Liner or Monstaliner (with UV additive), but it's a whole different look and I suppose probably won't mesh with your vision for the truck.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
I was similar when I bought my Bronco - knew how to do tires, brakes, simple stuff. But a Bronco sure forces you to learn the rest. :thumbup

Seam sealer is this gunky sort of caulk that is used under the paint to seal up where different body panels join together - for example, the inside panels of the bed wall with the bed itself. They'll probably do the seams with that sort of pricetag, but worth checking.

Ha, sounds like my wife:
"I won't ride in it until it's registered"
Got it registered.
"I won't ride in it until it's painted"
Got it painted.
"I won't ride in it cause the sun is on me"
So I just built a rollcage so I can have a sun shade. But I'm sure it won't appease Her Holiness. :toothless
It's still a frigging negotiation to get her to ride in it even to get groceries.
Anyways - my lesson is do it for you, not her. :goodfinge

You might even think about doing something like Al's Liner or Monstaliner (with UV additive), but it's a whole different look and I suppose probably won't mesh with your vision for the truck.

:rofl: I laughed when reading the wife stuff! Its been exactly the same with me. Although I am not chopping off the top of the cabin like you did, so crazy! but really cool! Looks like a modern 1st generation Bronco!

Yeah those guys included sealing all the joints between panels in the estimate.

Never heard of Al's Liner or Monstaliner. I feel I would just paint it with original colors. The truck has now some sort of Rhino coating, and I really do not like it. It is peeling like crazy and I don't like the rugged feel and look. I'd prefer if it could look closer to original.
 

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Premium Member
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2,165 Posts
How about an update?
 

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Registered
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139 Posts
By the way, I started asking around quotes for a new paint job and body work. One shop that I really like quoted me $10k for:


-full body repair and paint stripping (including interior)
-2 coat primer and sealer
-2 stage paint with clear coat in the dual tone blue/white
-buffing
-disassembling everything
-realigning hood, doors and fenders
-assembling new tailgate, and replacing hardware
-installing racetrack moldings
-replacing glass and weatherstripping​

I only have to provide the new parts, which I almost have them all.

What do you guys think? It is a lot of money but they are doing a lot of work.

I am a bit late in responding to this, but if you have not yet painted Bruce, I would recommend getting a quote from the Maaco Paint and Body in Torrance (the Maaco on Western, not on 223rd). Took my sons truck there that needed a decent amount of bodywork and also had them do a full color change. I was very impressed with the facility, the service, and the final product. They have a very good reputation and actually do a lot of older cars that people restore. We paid around $2,800, but that did not include everything you have listed here. We stripped off the accessories (mirrors, lights, grill, bumpers, etc.) but they did all the body work and painted the truck one color using a two stage base / clear coat paint, and did the color sanding as well. This included under the hood, the door jams, and between the cab and bed, but not the interior (there is no exposed metal in the interior of his truck).

And a side question; That alignment shop you took pictures in, was that Johnson's Alignment over on Hawthorn Boulevard?
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
Joined
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #37
By the way, I started asking around quotes for a new paint job and body work. One shop that I really like quoted me $10k for:


-full body repair and paint stripping (including interior)
-2 coat primer and sealer
-2 stage paint with clear coat in the dual tone blue/white
-buffing
-disassembling everything
-realigning hood, doors and fenders
-assembling new tailgate, and replacing hardware
-installing racetrack moldings
-replacing glass and weatherstripping​

I only have to provide the new parts, which I almost have them all.

What do you guys think? It is a lot of money but they are doing a lot of work.

I am a bit late in responding to this, but if you have not yet painted Bruce, I would recommend getting a quote from the Maaco Paint and Body in Torrance (the Maaco on Western, not on 223rd). Took my sons truck there that needed a decent amount of bodywork and also had them do a full color change. I was very impressed with the facility, the service, and the final product. They have a very good reputation and actually do a lot of older cars that people restore. We paid around $2,800, but that did not include everything you have listed here. We stripped off the accessories (mirrors, lights, grill, bumpers, etc.) but they did all the body work and painted the truck one color using a two stage base / clear coat paint, and did the color sanding as well. This included under the hood, the door jams, and between the cab and bed, but not the interior (there is no exposed metal in the interior of his truck).

And a side question; That alignment shop you took pictures in, was that Johnson's Alignment over on Hawthorn Boulevard?
Thank you so much for the suggestion, I will definitely keep it in mind. Sounds like a great alternative! I was thinking I could do some of the work myself, strip it as much as possible and then take it to them.

When did you take your son's truck there, was it recently?

That aligment shop is Bagge and Son at Washington Blvd, they have been there forever. Really nice people.
 

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Jan'19 F.O.T.M.
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343 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
It has been a long time since I posted last, but unfortunately, I had a major unexpected problem. The engine took a crap. After doing some work on the Bronco replacing the water pump, timing chain cover and some other small stuff I was driving back home on the freeway and noticed that the engine was making a tapping noise. Long story short, one lifter broke and it was really loose and two others were almost broken too, most of the spark plugs were in really bad shape too and unfortunately, water got in the engine as well so the whole thing was a mess. I almost gave up when this happened, but I ended up taking the engine to a rebuilder. I started a thread already about it here.

The engine being pulled out (so much easier without the front radiator support):


The goo in the timing chain cover is due to the amount of water that got mixed with the oil:


One of the bad spark plugs:


And because one thing always leads to another, after removing the engine I noticed that the transmission had a big leak coming from the area where the Torque Converter is. Initially Ziggy thought it was just the seal but after replacing it still kept leaking so we decided to pull the transmission and since we were at it the transfer case as well. There was a huge thick layer of mud covering them both.

The C6 kept leaking even after replacing the front seal:


A thick layer of mud and crap:


Already cleaned (Thank you Ziggy!), everything was fine except for some smaller components like the external switch:


I will be using this fluid for the transmission from now on following Ziggy's recommendation (sorry the pictures are being rotated by Super Motors)


Ziggy installed a magnet at the bottom of the transmission pan and also a drain plug, so oil changes in the future will be much easier.

The transfer case was fine even tho I had found a small metal piece coming from the inside. :doh0715: That just proves how tough these transfer cases are.



While all this was out, I took the time to clean everything out and re coat the frame, firewall and undercarriage. Little I knew this was going to be such a PITA. Between the thick layers of mud, the rust and the Rhino coating that the PO had put in there, It took lots of several passes with purple power degreaser and a pressure washer as well as of lots of elbow grease and scrapping.

This is already after removing the rhino coating and doing 3 or 4 passes of degreaser:


Testing Corroseal on the frame:



Corroseal on the rest of the frame and coated with a urethane primer and a 2k chassis black from Eastwood:


There was a gap between the top and bottom parts of the cabin. I had to remove the old seal, apply a new primer, new seal and then recoat it:




Everything back in place:




The dark blue on the firewall is because that is the color I want to paint the Bronco when it is all done. The PO had painted it white. I am using the original Dark Metallic Blue.

The process of removing and then reinstalling the engine, the transmission and the transfer case is a bit complicated. I had Ziggy helping me with this (or more like me helping him) and even tho he had done it on his own with his Bronco in the past I do recommend it to be a 2 men job at least. Assembling back the engine and aligning it with the transmission housing ideally requires 3 people and it's really hard. But luckily we managed to put it back on our second attempt. The key is to align the bolt in a similar fashion before starting and hanging the engine on the hoist in such a way so it is not front heavy.

Other things that I worked on during all this time:

-Torque Converter. I got a Hughes Performance Fuel 43 Torque converter, not sure if it will help but I wanted to give it a try. Some info about it on this thread.

-Fender aprons. My old ones were broken and rusted and even tho I attempted to save one of them by cleaning it and priming it I then realized that some of the internal nuts were missing. So I used the aftermarket ones that I bought a while ago. But they needed work too, they both arrived with a ton of scratches. I sanded, epoxy primed them and then coated them with 2k Chassis black on the top and a rubber coating at the bottom.



Aftermarket replacemet arrived with a bunch of scratches:


After priming:


With Rubber coating at the bottom:


Will post a picture of the final result later.

-The gearbox was sent to Redhead to be rebuilt.



-I got a Saginaw pump kit from WildHorses for the steering and I also got a Borgenson lower shaft. Pictures of this later.

-I am in the process of rebuilding the steering column as well. The upper section was loose and the bearings were really rough. Will post more on this soon, but its a very simple process so far.

Here all the components dissasembled:


-The AC/Heat components. I removed everything, cleaned, re coated the metal parts, replaced all the foam and sealed the ducts with red RTV. I also started a thread here. It is a pretty invested process and I feel that I should probably dedicate a whole post just on that, maybe later.

-I removed the dash, sanded it, filled holes, used a high build primer and more sanding to smooth it all out. I am in the process of repainting it to its original color and clear coated it.





In the process of priming and filling it:


-Got a new high-performance starter motor from Bronco Graveyard. The small kind that it is also lighter than the original.


-Got a drop pitman arm to help the steering because of the 4 inch lift and an adjustable track bar to help align the front section. I have yet to install those.

I am also replacing my old torn, cracked and faded dash pad for a new one, restoring all the chrome on the dash vents and also restoring the glovebox vinyl and emblem.

And I will be insulating the inside of the cabin (only the firewall for now) with butyl and foam.

So hopefully there will be more posts soon!

In the end, so much work but very rewarding. Good news is that hopefully, I will have it back on the road soon!
 

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Thank you so much for the suggestion, I will definitely keep it in mind. Sounds like a great alternative! I was thinking I could do some of the work myself, strip it as much as possible and then take it to them.

When did you take your son's truck there, was it recently?

That aligment shop is Bagge and Son at Washington Blvd, they have been there forever. Really nice people.
Looks like you have been busy! Everything looks great. That color blue is just about what I am going to paint mine at some point.

If I recall correctly, we had his truck painted in early to mid 2015.
 
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